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Maintaining a M1A Super Match

This is a discussion on Maintaining a M1A Super Match within the Modern M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; I never understood why folks try to not to get bore cleaner in the gas port. You have to clean the spindle valve and gas ...


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Old March 28th, 2020, 04:43 PM   #16
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I never understood why folks try to not to get bore cleaner in the gas port. You have to clean the spindle valve and gas cylinder with bore cleaner anyway.

Bedding is a different issue. You definitely want to keep chemicals away from where the bedding meets the wood.

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Old March 28th, 2020, 05:15 PM   #17
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what kind of oprod spring guide do you have?

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Old March 28th, 2020, 05:24 PM   #18
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what kind of oprod spring guide do you have?
I assume it's a SAI NM spring guide.

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Old March 28th, 2020, 07:21 PM   #19
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You can do that or just careful. Use enough solvent to clean and not run everywhere. If it get in the gas cylinder just dry it out with a 45 swab.

Yes, theyíre our babies, but they donít need to be babied as much as many lead you to believe.

Dismantle your rifle as seldom as possible and when you do, be careful not to hurt the bedding. Put the trigger group back in smoothly and slowly. Thatís really about it.

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Old March 28th, 2020, 08:56 PM   #20
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Your boroscope is scaring you. Use your eyes. Do not hone your gas cylinder, if it worries you, replace it with a good unitized USGI gas cylinder.
Bolt roller, lug and op rod tap lubrication are important. I highly recommend the little plastic bolt roller lube tool that force the grease into the roller.
I believe those are available at Fulton, eBay, gunbroker etc, and while you are at it buy a USGI type bolt disassembly / assembly tool.

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Old March 29th, 2020, 08:18 AM   #21
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I trained on a M-14 in basic. How many times during the course of several years of cleaning and take downs with steel cleaning rods do you think they were cleaned? And you could still knock down 300 yard (yes yards, not meters) targets with ease. The M-14 and M-1A are inherently accurate. That is why I have 4. BTW-the bolt roller was never greased. The whole rifle was never greased, just oiled up good. One last thing-all the boys from Tennessee already knew how to shoot. The boys from New York not so much.

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Old March 29th, 2020, 08:30 PM   #22
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Got her all broken down and cleaned up. Had a lot of built up crud, and some rust of the barrel. I appreciate all the tips and videos by tonyben3.


The gas cylinder was a PITA until I realized the barrel band was glued to the barrel. That is not your father’s RTV silicone.


The extractor and spring were odd. Extra or looked like it was filed for final fitting? I thought the extractor spring was broken, but it looks like it is two springs.. the main spring is ground square on both ends, the small spring appears to be clipped, with one end squared. I replaced them with GI extractor and spring.



Found an easy way to grease the roller: short piece of 3/8” vinyl tube to couple to a grease gun.

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Old March 30th, 2020, 08:44 AM   #23
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Dang. You have accomplished what I would deem overkill.

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Old March 30th, 2020, 09:08 AM   #24
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Nice work. Now you know that you have a fresh rifle.

They started using the dope on the handguard in the early 2000's. The welded gas cylinders as well.

Contrary to internet lore, the grease goes on the outside of the roller, where it contacts the inside of the oprod. It's not a wheel bearing and actually rotates very little. It's just there to keep the bolt stud from sticking to the oprod. They normally only put oil in the roller when it leaves the factory.

Put a little grease on the oprod tube as well. Rub it in with your fingers and wipe any residue off. If you can see it, you've used too much. Grease attracts dirt and brass shavings, which will make it necessary to clean more often.

Since your gas cylinder is welded, you can turn the spindle valve. Give it a few turns during each cleaning, to loosen the carbon. Remove it with a pipe cleaner and some dry cleaning solvent.

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Old March 30th, 2020, 10:06 AM   #25
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M14 maintenance and zeroing instructions can be found in the "Gun Professional" threads of this forum posted under Ted Brown. Check it out. It tells you everything you need to know.

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Old March 30th, 2020, 02:19 PM   #26
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I do not know why someone would by a Ferrari, runs Great.
Needs an Oil Change.
Tears down the WHOLE engine, just to check a few parts, that may not need replacing, and expect it to run the same or even better??

Just saying

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Old March 30th, 2020, 04:19 PM   #27
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I do not know why someone would by a Ferrari, runs Great.
Needs an Oil Change.
Tears down the WHOLE engine, just to check a few parts, that may not need replacing, and expect it to run the same or even better??

Just saying

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Lol. I know where you are coming from. Not sure if you’ve ever owned a Ferrari, but they are very maintenance intensive. In any case, this particular gun had ten years of deferred maintenance with no records. It needed a good inspection and cleaning. In any case, it went together well, and may shoot a little more consistently.

Before tear down reference group:


It took about 15 rounds to settle down, but here’s a ten-round group with FGMM 175gr SMK. The high-right flyer was the last round and called:


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Old March 30th, 2020, 05:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Lol. I know where you are coming from. Not sure if you’ve ever owned a Ferrari, but they are very maintenance intensive. In any case, this particular gun had ten years of deferred maintenance with no records. It needed a good inspection and cleaning. In any case, it went together well, and may shoot a little more consistently

Lol yes “deferred maintenance with no records” I totally get it as a car guy also the owner of a new to me Super Match that had a rough life. When you find the bedding literally soaking in oil and a gas piston half plugged with carbon ( the entire small end of the piston ) the only way to be sure is a complete tear down.

One or two key things serve as a clue to the care, or lack thereof, that a rifle may have received in its prior life.

Nice groups by the way, looks good.

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Old March 30th, 2020, 05:57 PM   #29
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I have yet to have an M14 pattern rifle pass thru my hands that was not broken down to the barreled receiver, for inspection and cleaning.

I trust the builder and I trust myself. I do not trust anyone in between.

Thanks from 1100 tac
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Old April 2nd, 2020, 06:51 PM   #30
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If you wish to remove the stock occasionally, then use a magnifying glass and a hard Arkansas stone to dull the edges of the receiver where they shave the bedding as the receiver is remounted. If you do it right, there will be no white glove detectable bedding dust each time you remove the stock and the bedding will stay tight.

With the stock removed, consider sealing all the inside wood against moisture or humidity warping with thinned polyurethane. Use at least 2 coats of thinned followed with a couple of un-thinned coats. You will first need to remove all the metal and sand smooth all the wood to 320 grit. This includes using a wooden dowel covered with sandpaper to smooth the storage holes in the buttstock.

My SNM has never been grouped at 100 yards of meters as the 308 bullets are not stabilized inside 200 yards. Check your SNM for ammo preferences at at least 300 yards.

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