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Springfield Armory 3rd & 4th Gen scope mount problems.

This is a discussion on Springfield Armory 3rd & 4th Gen scope mount problems. within the The M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Maybe this would have been better in the gunsmithing section......


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Old March 4th, 2019, 11:13 AM   #121
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Maybe this would have been better in the gunsmithing section...

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Old March 4th, 2019, 11:34 AM   #122
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I think you will find that the included screws are made of mild steel so that our friend bubba can't destroy the threaded hole in the receiver while mounting to his own specifications.
Most find that following the instructions that come with these mounts to the letter will help to make the thing work as advertised.
Nice old motor in the background of photo #2.

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Old March 4th, 2019, 11:52 AM   #123
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I figured as much on the steel composition but Im your son of an aircraft engineer/inchpound torque wrench kinda guy. Maybe I'm just being a profectionest...
Ya the old 47 Johnson Sea Horse runs like a top. Thanks for noticing lol

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Old March 4th, 2019, 11:54 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf1e View Post
I think you will find that the included screws are made of mild steel so that our friend bubba can't destroy the threaded hole in the receiver while mounting to his own specifications.
Most find that following the instructions that come with these mounts to the letter will help to make the thing work as advertised.
Nice old motor in the background of photo #2.
The main problem is the knobs are just plain ugly my friend.

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Old March 4th, 2019, 12:07 PM   #125
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Quote:
...am I crazy for wanting and using gr8...
Yes

Quote:
...does anyone know of a supplier of a high grade bolt in this thread pitch or even a die...
No. It's not really a standard #12, the blueprints calls out #12 (.216)-32 NEF-2B hole spec.

Quote:
...was it a good idea to machine down the windage adjustment?
No.

Quote:
...does anyone have any good ideas how I can remove the Springfield Armory logo off the side of this mount...
Not without taking a lot of material off and probably making the mount too thin and then having to refinish it.

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Old March 4th, 2019, 12:07 PM   #126
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repost


Last edited by RAMMAC; March 4th, 2019 at 12:12 PM. Reason: once again the server created a second post for some reason
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Old March 4th, 2019, 01:17 PM   #127
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[/quote]
No.

Why do you think that was a bad idea? The the threaded sleeve sat out .25 more than needed. I chucked it up and cut it down .2 (just curious)


Last edited by CaseyTK; March 4th, 2019 at 01:30 PM.
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Old March 4th, 2019, 02:01 PM   #128
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get you a Sadlak mount........... period.........

read the directions.............. install. ............. go shoot..............

next time do a search or ask question before you go to the lathe............

Thanks from nf1e, hytekrednek and ColdWarPigGnR
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Old March 4th, 2019, 02:05 PM   #129
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That's not a windage adjustment screw. It's a secondary screw for bolting the mount to the stripper clip guide/hence receiver. The threaded portion usually doesn't stick out that far. It doesn't seem like it's fitted properly. You tighten the receiver screw first. The stripper clip guide screw is adjustable to secure the position of the mount so it doesn't twist out of the initial alignment; it's not meant to be adjustable for windage. The secondary slotted/threaded screw screws into the mount until it sets on the stripper clip guide. Then tighten the lock nut. Then you tighten the thumbscrew.
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Old March 4th, 2019, 02:19 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by chief on one View Post
get you a Sadlak mount........... period.........

read the directions.............. install. ............. go shoot..............

next time do a search or ask question before you go to the lathe............
agreed. It's already purchased though. For now I just want to stick with what I have... And improve what I have if possible.

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Old March 4th, 2019, 03:17 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by Redneck Yankee View Post
That's not a windage adjustment screw. It's a secondary screw for bolting the mount to the stripper clip guide/hence receiver.
Thank you for your reply. I followed the SA procedure to the T. SA also says that once in a while some mounts may need its windage adjusted by use of this location. I understand that its main purpose is the rear mount. Its seated correctly.
I didn't like how far it stuck out, so I cut it down. Simple as that. Hear are some better pics

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Old March 5th, 2019, 08:17 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief on one View Post
get you a Sadlak mount........... period.........

read the directions.............. install. ............. go shoot..............

next time do a search or ask question before you go to the lathe............
Chief on one gave you good advice.

Thanks from hytekrednek
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Old March 5th, 2019, 09:47 PM   #133
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Put the tools down and go shoot it.

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Old March 5th, 2019, 11:18 PM   #134
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I said that cutting down the tension bolt wasn't a good idea because it was spec'd to be that length for whatever reason the design engineers thought it was necessary. Neither you nor I can honestly say that shortening a part simply because it looks better is a good reason to change a design. It may or may not change anything good or bad, but to change things just for the sake of change isn't good engineering practice.

If you have no idea what something might effect then you either you shouldn't do it or you should be prepared to replace it if you end up ruining it. You never make changes to a rifle without verifying what it did to the performance capabilities and you can't know that if you haven't done a baseline test on the accuracy of the rifle.

You really need to take the rifle out and set it up on a bench, with rests at the front and the rear and create some 5 round, 100 yard groups using good quality ammo (Federal Gold Medal 168gr Sierra Matchkings are a common standard). Then you'll be able to make changes and re-test and see if your changes are improving the rifle or not. Anything that changes the mounting system of your optics is going to be critical to the performance of the rifle, you don't want to change anything without pre and post testing under controlled conditions.

M1A rifles are not plug and play rifles like an AR, they are finicky and notoriously difficult to make accurate. They require trial and error and that takes time so don't be in a hurry to change everything. You need to make one change at a time and see what happens. Sometimes the change will need to be reversed so make sure that when you make a change you do it to the least expensive part that you can so if you screw it up you can replace it without a lot of cost. Trust me, those of us who work on the accuracy of these rifles end up with a lot of spare parts.

Thanks from nf1e, m14brian, unkola and 2 others
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Old March 5th, 2019, 11:39 PM   #135
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From strictly an appearance standpoint, wouldn't a button head cap screw look a lot better than the hex head in there now?



PS: I actually like the big knob screws that come with the SAI mount.

Thanks from nf1e, 1100 tac and racer
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