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BLO, PTO What's the difference? Pics if possible.

This is a discussion on BLO, PTO What's the difference? Pics if possible. within the Stock forums, part of the Rifle Forum category; OK after reading the M1A in the bathroom thread I noticed people recommending Boiled Linseed Oil for the stock. When I purchased my M1A NM ...


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Old January 28th, 2017, 08:58 AM   #1
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BLO, PTO What's the difference? Pics if possible.

OK after reading the M1A in the bathroom thread I noticed people recommending Boiled Linseed Oil for the stock.
When I purchased my M1A NM a few years ago someone recommended Pure Tung Oil.
I thinned the PTO for the first coat then rubbed it out an left it to dry for a day then used 0000 steel wool to knock down the grain and used a tack rag to remove any debris then repeated the whole process again several times without thinning the PTO.

When using PTO or BLO place all rags in a metal container and seal it or place them in a container filled with water. There is a potential for spontaneous combustion.

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Old January 28th, 2017, 09:36 AM   #2
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I'm a BLO and Scotch pad man. Don't know the difference, it was just the way I was shown and I've had good luck with it.

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Old January 28th, 2017, 12:32 PM   #3
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Some guys like this or that and get all wrapped around the axle with the great PTO vrs. BLO debate.... I'm in the other camp, Teak Oil is my champ...........

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Old January 28th, 2017, 12:36 PM   #4
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Blo by itself has little waterproofing properties. It also changes shade over time.
Pto does has waterproofing properties.

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Old January 28th, 2017, 02:55 PM   #5
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IMHO, you should let each coat dry for a lot longer than one day.
BLO does provide some barrier to moisture, PTO about twice as much resistance to moisture.
Like it's been said, people love to debate their favorite. Me I use something else, and no I'm not telling.

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Old January 28th, 2017, 04:05 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by sac troop View Post
IMHO, you should let each coat dry for a lot longer than one day.
BLO does provide some barrier to moisture, PTO about twice as much resistance to moisture.
Like it's been said, people love to debate their favorite. Me I use something else, and no I'm not telling.
Agreed, pto takes days, if not weeks to really dry and harden. Allow more time.

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Old January 28th, 2017, 04:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Phil McGrath View Post
Some guys like this or that and get all wrapped around the axle with the great PTO vrs. BLO debate.... I'm in the other camp, Teak Oil is my champ...........
And here I thought you liked the birch stock I sent you (redone in BLO).

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Old January 28th, 2017, 04:21 PM   #8
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And here I thought you liked the birch stock I sent you (redone in BLO).
I remember that stock you sold, that was a nice one. I'd a bought it myself if I didn't already have a Wade stock I don't use cause it's too nice to use.

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Old January 28th, 2017, 08:10 PM   #9
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BLO does provide some barrier to moisture, PTO about twice as much resistance to moisture.
But both offer near zero protection so it doesn't matter: http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=121369

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Old January 28th, 2017, 08:18 PM   #10
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But both offer near zero protection so it doesn't matter: http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=121369
Not sure if I'd trust that chart. Only has up to three coats. All the stocks I've worked with using PTO or BLO have many more coats than that. Once cured, water rolls right off them. Granted, I haven't taken them into any SE Asia jungles, but PTO/BLO does offer more than "zero" protection.

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Old January 28th, 2017, 08:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
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And here I thought you liked the birch stock I sent you (redone in BLO).
Nothing too think about, I do like it! However...... I'm thinking I should have gone with a Big Red for this collection of parts I'm gathering up.

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Old January 29th, 2017, 05:44 AM   #12
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I use BLO and its fine.

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Old January 29th, 2017, 06:20 AM   #13
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BLO, PTO, Teak Oil, TruOil, etc, are all designed to repel liquid water, such as rain or crossing a stream. They work fine if maintained appropriately.

The military really didn't care about vapor water (humidity) until experiences in Vietnam. Accuracy wasn't the issue (the M14 is a 3-5 moa rifle), it was the fact that the wood actually rots or comes apart.

The solution was fiberglass stocks for service rifles and epoxy impregnated heavy wood stocks for the XM21.

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Old January 29th, 2017, 06:26 AM   #14
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If the walnut stock has a lot of figure, burl, etc. and want it to really pop out I use a varnish finish and multiple coats with rub down of 0000 steel wool between each coat. You can do such and have a very bright shine finish or a subdued matt finish controlled by the use of the wool mentioned. First step w/ raw wood is to hose it down, either leave in the hot sun (or use hair dryer) for a while and this will raise the grain similar to little fingers. Sand those down and do it couple times for it is opening the grain of the wood revealing even more grain structure. Wood is well preserved, sealed with use of quality varnish and a coat of wax can give the stock that hand rubbed oil finish found on up scale shotguns or custom rifles. I have done numerous quality stocks using BLO and do the first step of raising the grain, and then wet sanding multiple coats of the BLO with initially 600grit and ending up with 800-1000grit paper. Important that the grain be filled with the finish to have any durability and attractive finish. The BLO or PTO process makes it easier to repair any scratches, surface bumps, etc. than the varnish finish which may be a consideration for the stock finisher. That's my story and sticking with it.

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Old January 29th, 2017, 06:58 AM   #15
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Anyone try RAW linseed oil - I recalling 'something' about it drying better and being less tacky than BLO.

Never used it myself.

I did polyur my stock, and that seems to have made it MORE sensitive to humidity changes regarding tightness of trigger guard locking!

Jay Kosta
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