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Filling a selector cutout

This is a discussion on Filling a selector cutout within the Stock forums, part of the Rifle Forum category; I have a USGI fiberglass stock that needs some work and I'm considering filling the selector cutout while repairing some gouges on it. What materials ...


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Old December 18th, 2016, 07:31 AM   #1
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Filling a selector cutout

I have a USGI fiberglass stock that needs some work and I'm considering filling the selector cutout while repairing some gouges on it. What materials and techniques would you folks suggest for doing this? I've also read of removing the checkering on the wrist and forearms on these stocks. Advice?

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Old December 18th, 2016, 08:17 AM   #2
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There are many tutorials and advice to be found if you use the search feature. The short answer is to place a screw or two into the bottom of the cut to hold the filler, use some thin cardboard like from an ammo box and tape it in place on both sides of the cutout, then pour in your filler, I used JB-Weld and sanded smooth. I'd leave the checkering alone. Another thing to consider is if your taking it that far, do as I did and go ahead and bed it, also stiffen the forearm, I used a slow setting steel epoxy putty that was easy to work with and shape, also cobbled together my own bedding collar from materials out in the garage.

IMHO it's easy to bed a USGI fiberglass stock, then finish it off with rattle cans, I also threw some texture coat on before painting. I Just got comfortable with the picture posting process, if weather permits I'll show you mine....

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Old December 18th, 2016, 09:38 AM   #3
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I make my forms for the full auto cut-out using "playing cards" cut to fill the front and back side - then I use painters tape to keep the forms in place. I use marine-tex to fill the hole because I like it the best, but JB weld will work too.

Be sure to go a little higher with your material so you can sand down and get it perfectly level. The material seems to settle a bit when it dries.

Edit - I put a little wax or some type off release agent on the inside of the playing cards before I add the marine-Tex or it will leave some of the card material on the surface when you remove the form. You can sand it off if you forget to put the wax on the inside, but it's easier to do it right to start with.

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Last edited by M1Army; December 18th, 2016 at 10:11 AM.
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Old December 18th, 2016, 12:47 PM   #4
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Here's mine if the pics work....

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old December 18th, 2016, 01:13 PM   #5
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Really nice work on that stock! Gotta love that scene from Blackhawk Down!

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Old December 18th, 2016, 01:18 PM   #6
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Hey Gen, nice work! That's what I'm looking to do with mine. Like the paint scheme you did. Thanks for your input.

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Old December 19th, 2016, 05:29 AM   #7
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Thanks guys, I am my own worst critic. After filling in all the selector areas and bedding it, gave it a texture coating, then using the Krylon camo rattle cans did the 4 color woodland pattern best I could, paint one color over all for the first coat, cut & tear pieces of masking tape and leave it on there, paint the next color and let dry, more masking tape until I went thru all 4 colors, peel off all the tape and give it a clear coat.

This was my first try at rattle can camo, when it wears or I get bored can always paint it over. BTW : "Blackhawk Down" was my inspiration for this effort...

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Old December 21st, 2016, 09:55 PM   #8
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Great work Gen Jack Ripper.

I personally might not try to fill it, as I have had several come undone and it looks bad and is frustrating. I was going to buy a Wolfe modified stock, does anyone else have a surefire guaranteed way that the fill will not crack or separate, in your comments and advice to the OP.
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Old December 22nd, 2016, 05:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m14brian View Post
Great work Gen Jack Ripper.

I personally might not try to fill it, as I have had several come undone and it looks bad and is frustrating. I was going to buy a Wolfe modified stock, does anyone else have a surefire guaranteed way that the fill will not crack or separate, in your comments and advice to the OP.
m14brian
Match Conditioning instructions will tell you to tack 3-4 1" brads or nails into the selector cut, do the same for the connector relief areas, drive them in 3/8" then bend them over 90 degrees, but, on a fiberglass stock I found screws and just leaving the heads sticking up to work equally as well or better, I filled mine with JB Weld. It's the same idea as using rebar to reinforce concrete pours.

Yeah I know what you mean about the cracking, the one I did has had zero issues and was done a while ago, however, I originally sent my rifle off along with it's wood stock to Springfield for the match conditioning treatment, they did a crappy bedding job in my opinion and it cracked around the edges of selector cut, not horrible but it's there, I had to go behind their work and clean it up. Then I decided I wanted a camo stock and did it myself.

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Old December 22nd, 2016, 05:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Jack Ripper View Post
IMHO it's easy to bed a USGI fiberglass stock, then finish it off with rattle cans, I also threw some texture coat on before painting. I Just got comfortable with the picture posting process, if weather permits I'll show you mine....
What did you use for the texture coat? TIA.

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Old December 22nd, 2016, 05:51 PM   #11
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and how scratch resistant is it?

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Old December 22nd, 2016, 06:07 PM   #12
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604,you can use wax paper on the inside of the mold

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Old December 22nd, 2016, 06:35 PM   #13
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As far as the gouges are concerned rough up the area with 80 grit sandpaper then use bondo make sure to add a little extra hardener. Maybe use the method mentioned above to fill cut out with JB weld sand it some and then finish it all with bondo. It's easy to work with and sands out great. Test out a small batch on something else to get the mixture to your liking.

Just my 2 cents

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Old December 22nd, 2016, 08:35 PM   #14
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Awesome Camo job Gen Jack !

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Old December 23rd, 2016, 05:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hipowerguy View Post
What did you use for the texture coat? TIA.
I used a spray called "Tread-Tex" off the shelf from a Lowes or HD. There's other products out there to achieve the look you want, I just happened to have that one on hand.

It's for use on stairs, etc. Fairly resistant, but not indestructible, ejected brass has dinged the edge behind the op rod handle, easily touched up.


Last edited by Gen Jack Ripper; December 23rd, 2016 at 05:18 AM.
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