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Tung oil or linseed oil

This is a discussion on Tung oil or linseed oil within the Stock forums, part of the Rifle Forum category; Which was used by contractors to finish m14 stocks? Thanks...


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Old June 2nd, 2016, 01:09 PM   #1
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Tung oil or linseed oil

Which was used by contractors to finish m14 stocks? Thanks

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Old June 2nd, 2016, 03:24 PM   #2
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I have seen more with the Linseed finish then the Tung oil, but I prefer the Tung oil finish because it has more of a sheen to it and is easy to touch up if needed.

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Old June 2nd, 2016, 03:27 PM   #3
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I have seen more with the Linseed finish then the Tung oil, but I prefer the Tung oil finish because it has more of a sheen to it and is easy to touch up if needed.
Thank you. Do you think they were originally linseed?

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Old June 2nd, 2016, 03:55 PM   #4
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I was curious about that myself and stumbled upon this link... looks like good info.

http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armo...aning-article/

Thanks from timrb and AZCasper
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:04 PM   #5
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Seems like I read somewhere that the later postwar Garands were Tung oil. What I'm getting out of this article is that they used both linseed and Tung. I bet the contractors used Tung oil after Garand production ceased.


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Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:08 PM   #6
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What I've read on the subject is.... that the Armories preferred tung oil when it could be had. I've also seen linseed oil used as being the raw variety, as boiled oil was a completely different animal back then.

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Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:15 PM   #7
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What I've read on the subject is.... that the Armories preferred tung oil when it could be had. I've also seen linseed oil used as being the raw variety, as boiled oil was a completely different animal back then.

BLO still is a different animal than raw linseed oil.

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Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:41 PM   #8
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BLO still is a different animal than raw linseed oil.


I use Pureoleen 100% linseed


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Old June 2nd, 2016, 07:17 PM   #9
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BLO still is a different animal than raw linseed oil.
Yes, it's chemically "boiled" now. It used to be actually boiled with heat and lead and sometimes iron oxide added. It was also pretty thick stuff.

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Old June 2nd, 2016, 11:19 PM   #10
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Uh... I just noticed this thread got moved to the "Stock" sub-forum. I never knew there was a sub-forum here just about stocks.

I should look around here more.

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Old June 3rd, 2016, 04:13 AM   #11
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Real Milk Paint Dark Raw Tung Oil.

The best..

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/dark-tung/

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Old June 3rd, 2016, 04:18 AM   #12
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Real Milk Paint Dark Raw Tung Oil.

The best..

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/dark-tung/
What he said. If you are going to use Tung Oil, this is the ONLY stuff to use. It is the real deal. Looks great on anything. Bowls, pens, live edge projects, guitars, stocks, etc.

Thanks from LAMEDUCK
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Old June 3rd, 2016, 07:30 AM   #13
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Don't know (other then reading the CMP link) what finish was originally applied to M-14 stocks at factory, but do know that I/we only used Linseed Oil on our rifle stocks. Rubbed it in w/ a cloth.

Now read that it was the Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). Didn't know this at time/ didn't know of different types of linseed oil

Have to admit that lots of LSA or whatever we used to clean the rifles also was rubbed into the wood at times.

Never heard of using Tung Oil, except for house/ office wood furniture, until 20 or so years later.

BTW, on a similar subject, never was taught to use nor used grease on the M-14 while I was issued one. Used military issue gun oil and solvent only.

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Old June 3rd, 2016, 09:14 AM   #14
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I was curious about that myself and stumbled upon this link... looks like good info.

http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armo...aning-article/
Having read that article I now understand why the stock refinishers here ask the prices they do.

Refinishing a stock takes a lot of labor plus some labor of love to bring out the beauty of the stock.

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Old June 3rd, 2016, 11:14 AM   #15
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Real Milk Paint Dark Raw Tung Oil.

The best..

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/dark-tung/
I do the first 3 or 4 coats with 0000 steel wool. Man, it gives it a beautiful
finish, and you see it darken up with each successive coat.
After that, I just use a paper towel to wipe on a coat, let it sit overnight, and wipe/buff in the morning or whenever I get to it. Let it dry again overnite.
Repeat until your happy with the color. But the best first step is using the steel wool on those first coats. Make sure you rub it with the steel wool, then wipe it off to get the pieces of steel wool off, then just coat on a thin coat and let it sit. Don't let it sit after just rubbing it with the steel wool otherwise you'll have steel splinters in the finish.

Thanks from cboetig
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