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Shou-Sugi-Ban Stock

8K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  Sgt Nambu 
#1 ·
Have been reading up on the ancient Japanese method of treating wood called Shou-Sugi-Ban. Decided I'd give it a try on a birch stock.

First attempt was not to my liking, as I think I charred it a bit too much.

Second attempt came out a lot better, at least I thought so.

Here are some pics of my efforts. Thoughts?









 
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#3 ·
Hi Duce -> I like it!

However, I must say I would also "love to see a picture of you lighting the stock on Fire!"

We would make a bill deal about that that down here in Georgia :)

Looks Good and you have to keep experimenting!

M1Army
 
#4 ·
However, I must say I would also "love to see a picture of you lighting the stock on Fire!"
In my small amount of experimentation, I have found that while it is quite easy to get the stock to "light up", one doesn't want to necessarily do that, and not just for safety reasons. This one I actually did in my basement; just have to be delicate with the torch. GI2
 
#5 · (Edited)
I don't know the odds of this one, but you'll like it. I've recently been looking at the whole Shou Sugi Ban thing as well, and have tried to find someone who has tried it on the furniture of their firearm. I wasn't able to find ANYBODY, so I finally got around to purchasing a torch, some Tung Oil, and a couple of wooden forends for my Mossberg 500. The first forend came in (separate shipments, and I bought two in case the process failed, I'd have a backup) and it looked nice. Just a plain unfinished reddish colored wood. Second one finally arrived (this one I ordered with an oil finish already applied), and it was cracked, and had vital chunks missing from it. So, instead of paying for return shipping, I decided it would become my "test piece". Out comes the sandpaper. I get the oil finish removed as best as I can, then I fire up the torch, I give it a nice charred look on one side, I lighten it up in the middle, then I barely touch it on the opposite side. After I cleaned it all up, applied my own Tung Oil finish, I decided I liked the middle section the most. So, done with the "test piece", I move onto the real thing. I gave it a once over with sandpaper (just because), I fire up the torch, I give it a nice semi-even coating (highlights here and there), and I go to brush off the residue using a brush and some water. I find a decent (but perhaps not enough to hinder function) sized crack. "Damn! Too much heat!". Not a big deal, I might be able to get away with it being there. Next, I take it inside to the stove to remove the moisture. Done. Then, I go to apply the Tung Oil. Looking great! (Besides the crack staring me in the face). Then, I go to reinstall it. Let me tell you! I learned a lesson today in the amount wood can expand and contract. This thing must have been a good 1/3 larger in diameter than when I began! Oh well, it was all part of the learning curve, I suppose (I did toss it in the freezer, but I decided I'm not going to use that piece due to the crack. It would be questionable at best.). So, here now sits my Mossberg 500 with a polymer forend installed again.


Anyways, I had to log in just to say that I cannot believe the day I choose to give it a try, someone else got the very same idea. I'm really liking what you've done with your stock. It looks great! So, since it worked for you, may I ask what your whole process was?
 
#7 ·
Ok. But remember that this is still a work in progress. Or I might just sell it as-is as a project stock. It's really not that bad. Still thinking about it. It does have a nice purplish tone to it. Also, I've only done this on birch stocks that don't show much promise in the way of grain pattern.

BTW... this one did "light up" a few times. No matter how well you clean them, there is still some oil in that wood!

Note that the wavy lines on the butt are a reflection from the glass table.








 
#8 ·
Have you tried a heat gun, mine [1100 watts] will set wood on fire in about 5 seconds. I wonder what it would do if you cut some foil or thicker pieces of metal on the stock and heat around them? you might be able to do a wood camo look, you might be able to use a paint brush and water and paint shapes on the stock and heat it with the torch, it should no burn the wet spots until the water evaporates.

Casey
 
#10 ·
Haven't tried a heat gun; I'll stick to flame. GI2

And while I'm sure one can come up with some interesting designs using the techniques you describe, that really wasn't what I had been looking for. What I had hoped was that the end result would look more like some of the boards in the photo below. But it really didn't turn out that way. Maybe because the Sugi method works better on Cedar than it does on Birch? Dunno. Need to experiment more. Maybe I really need to char it. BRSTBOMB

 
#13 ·
I think your reject stock looks good. If you were able do something to even it out, with the whole thing being dark, I think the appreaance would be striking. I think the contrast of the cedar would be hard to achieve with birch. I read FAQ's on the site you linked, and they describe it as a treatment that was originally intended to protect from the elements and insects. Aside from the beauty that this technique might impart, I'm thinking it wouldn't be as effective in preventing moisture absorbtion and swelling, as the BLO originally used on GI stocks was.
 
#14 ·
I think your reject stock looks good. If you were able do something to even it out, with the whole thing being dark, I think the appreaance would be striking.
I did sand this a bit already, as it was rather dark after I finished it. I may just hit it again with the torch (after I get the 1 coat of Teak Oil Finish off it) to see what a deep burn will do. Just don't want to ruin it, though. Maybe I should pick up some stubs from Fred's to work on.

Aside from the beauty that this technique might impart, I'm thinking it wouldn't be as effective in preventing moisture absorbtion and swelling,as the BLO originally used on GI stocks was.
I was thinking the same thing, except that the entire stock would have to be treated this way, and essentially burnt to a crisp. GI2 Guess I'm looking more for a look and not the properties that result from the technique.
 
#16 ·
Finally, I found some time to get back into this project.

Well, I stripped it down once again and played with some flame a bit more. Didn't go for a full "cook" but a little more of touch and go.

Hit it with a variety of stains and finished it off with a PTO/Turpentine mixture. I like the results. As you can see in the pics below, it really changes color depending on the angle of light. For example, the first two pictures below were taken about 15 seconds apart from one another, under the exact same lighting conditions, but at different angles.







Will be throwing this up in the PX soon.
 
#17 ·
Keep it up Duce. Looking good.
 
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#20 ·
The stock looks great! Too bad about the crispy critter, but you nailed it on the second one!
 
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