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Old February 11th, 2012, 01:48 PM   #1
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removing checkering

has anyone sanded the raised checkering off of a usgi fiberglass stock? i will be painting two this summer & i don't like checkering to begin with but the raised checkering on a fiberglass stock seems overkill. but i dont want to start sanding then get into loose fibers sticking up & have to deal with sealing or holes. just thought i'd sak. thanks
andy

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Old February 11th, 2012, 01:57 PM   #2
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I have a GI fiberglass stock that had the checkering removed by some one else.
I took it in on trade, checked it oever for twist and rear lug wear, and actually handled it a few more times before I noticed something was different.

I kind of miss the checkering ...
but if / when I get around to refinishing/repainting,
no checkering certainly make it easier to strip off all that paint in all those grooves.
YECH !!!

Bead blasting with light pressure is the best way to strip a GI glass stock,
but not everyone has access to a bead blaster.
[;)

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Old February 11th, 2012, 09:55 PM   #3
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i never thought about blasting the paint off. my blaster has very agressive aluminum oxide in it. i would need to sub something softer 1st. thanks for the idea!
andy

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Old February 11th, 2012, 10:48 PM   #4
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Thumbs up Meada

RICE. Good luck
Packing

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Old February 12th, 2012, 06:51 PM   #5
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Rice might be nice. I've used it mixed in with tumbling media, but only with PRIMED brass.

I alson eed to strip some epoxy type paintoff of an anodised surface without chewing into the anodising.

I might give that a try ..
thanks,
LAZ 1

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Old February 13th, 2012, 08:21 AM   #6
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Might try filling in the checkering with Bondo or similar, after beat blasting? Just a thought.

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Old February 13th, 2012, 01:06 PM   #7
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The checkering is RAISED, cast into the surface,
not LOWERED, by cutting in the diamonds,
so filling would leave a visible raised surface where the checkering had been.

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Old February 13th, 2012, 02:59 PM   #8
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Use a Dremel or other rotary tool with sanding drums to remove the checkering. Prepare the stock by laying down 3-4 layers of masking tape around the areas to prevent damage to to the stock. After sanding with the tool, sand by hand to remove any deep scratches, gouges, etc. Then apply 1-2 thin coats of 5 minute epoxy over the sanded area to prevent any fibers from sticking up. Bondo would do as well, but unless you have or access to some it's more expensive to buy versus the epoxy. Then prepare and paint the stock as normally done.

I did this on a friend's stock and used Krylon's black spray-on "Non-Skid" coating (available at your friendly, neighborhood WallyWorld) over the sanded areas to provide a good gripping surface. Do this before painting the stock. Mask the areas to be sprayed, put down light coats until you get the grip you want (remember that you will paint over this area so do it a little heavier) and then finish the stock the way you want trying to cover the grip areas as lightly as possible while getting good color coverage. Gives a surface grip similar to skateboard tape. This 'paint' can also be used on wood stocks without checkering to give you a good, long lasting gripping surface.

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Old February 13th, 2012, 03:03 PM   #9
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Well said ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albud3 View Post
Use a Dremel or other rotary tool with sanding drums to remove the checkering. Prepare the stock by laying down 3-4 layers of masking tape around the areas to prevent damage to to the stock. After sanding with the tool, sand by hand to remove any deep scratches, gouges, etc. Then apply 1-2 thin coats of 5 minute epoxy over the sanded area to prevent any fibers from sticking up. Bondo would do as well, but unless you have or access to some it's more expensive to buy versus the epoxy. Then prepare and paint the stock as normally done.

I did this on a friend's stock and used Krylon's black spray-on "Non-Skid" coating (available at your friendly, neighborhood WallyWorld) over the sanded areas to provide a good gripping surface. Do this before painting the stock. Mask the areas to be sprayed, put down light coats until you get the grip you want (remember that you will paint over this area so do it a little heavier) and then finish the stock the way you want trying to cover the grip areas as lightly as possible while getting good color coverage. Gives a surface grip similar to skateboard tape. This 'paint' can also be used on wood stocks without checkering to give you a good, long lasting gripping surface.
I have not yet used the Krylon "non Skid" paint, but I'll look for it, and probably use it next paint job. Thanks for the tip,
[;)
LAZ 1

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