M14 Forum

jerseybassnbow

I just received a beautiful birch stock but it has a small nick on it. What stain should I use to get it stained close to original finish and what can I use to get this stock to pop without refinishing and keeping it original? What stain was used originally for this Birch stock to give it such drastic color changes? BLO or BTO or????
Thanks

jerseybassnbow

No one?

shadowrider

Try some Watco Danish Oil in medium walnut color. It's pretty close to the color of that stock but sometimes pictures on the internet lie about actual color. Either way Watco's primarily BLO with a stain so it will hide that pretty well.

Gus Fisher

Sorry, just noticed this. Since the ding is across the grain, you don't want a real dark stain or it would stand out like a sore thumb. I agree with Shadowrider on the Watco oil as the easiest thing to do.

jerseybassnbow

Thanks guys. Is there a way to restore this stock and keep these color variations or if I strip it down, will I lose this look?

GCBurner

For preserving the original finish, you might try some sort of finish restoration product. I know Home Depot has some stuff called Howard's Restore-A-Finish that cleans up original oil finished stocks (and furniture). There's also some stuff called Kramer's Best Antique Restorer that's recommended by IMA for use on antique gunstocks, to restore the finish without removing the antique patina on old guns. A local antique store carries the Kramer products here, and it's worked well on an old muzzleloader.

Amsdorf

Doesn't look like there is much of the original finish left.

USMC 711

The process I know best is compatible with USGI arsenal rifles. First, I would not sand off whatever color is left, but leave it there as an underlying tone. The process I am about to describe involves 'glazing' over the color with other stains, and a final "French Rub" finish (known as the hand rubbed BLO or Tung Oil Method).


First, remove all the metal and go over the wood with a fine steel wool and a mixture of wood alcohol 50/50 water to get the grease off. don't go too heavy on this as it will also attack the original stain. When it is dry as a bone, I recommend going over with Chestnut Ridge military walnut with that hint of red. (now if that is not your color, find one that you do like). I get consistent results with Chestnut ridge. Apply it with a small cloth or cotton ball and give it even coats inside/out. Try to avoid the runs. Any observed uneveness you can bring down after it is dry with 0000 steel wool.

I like to leave hanging in a dry space 48 hours or so before beginning the linseed oil process. If the wood is real dry I give it a good soak over a day hanging from a pipe with a piece of coat hangar. I keep a close eye on it so it does not kick off and gum up.

When I am satisfied with my first coat, I continue to wipe it down every 12 hours or so to get all the excess --- I will let a week go by before rubbing in more oil, and a few days in between to allow to dry and slowly build up an oil finish.

A real fast way to dry it is add a small amount (by the drop) of Japan Driers - this stuff really helps quicken the dry rate - it is up to you, I like to take it easy and slow - gets my mind off things.

Hope this helps,

711

Charlene32

man, that nic is nothin'. just dab a little bit of leather dye on it then oil. you will never see it again. done...

ive done it on nics in birch that big. works, and is easy. dont over think it.