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February 12th, 2012, 06:30 AM
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#16 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: PNW
Posts: 1,836
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Yeah, that's a score that you probably won't see again from the CMP. Enjoy it and I wouldn't change anything on it. I prefer PTO for cleaning up stocks, but whatever you use will also loosen and dirt embedded in the wood and help clean it up.
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February 12th, 2012, 09:18 PM
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#17 | | Squad Leader
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Southern California
Posts: 250
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MIneral spirits worked well to pull a lot of the stickyness and dirt from the stock surface. Feels smooth and dry now, but those gouges need some sanding so I need to decide if I want to do a full refinish or just lay some pure tung oil over the top.
Orlando, I don't think I can turn it into a correct grade, but I am exciteded that I have something that might have seen combat issue even if it never saw combat, cuz this thing sure looks pristine. To those ends, if the reciever is '44 (found the date of manufacture on website based on the serial number), the barrel 43 (clearly stamped if that is indeed manufacture date), those might lead me to believe they are original mates from a '44 or later construction. I have a lot of numbers from the trigger group, oprod, hammer, etc, but those do not carry any clear date in thier numeration, and only the trigger group clearly states its SA manufacture. Is there a site or resource that might help in finding out if these pieces are WW2 era as well?
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February 13th, 2012, 03:31 AM
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#18 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,539
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PM me the list of parts and I will tell you the year they are for.
As the barrel being original it is possible but probably been replaced as the barrel is 15 months earlier. The 43 barrel could have come off a rifle with a damaged receiver and set back for repair
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February 13th, 2012, 05:28 AM
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#19 | | Designated Marksman
Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: The United Soviet Peoples Republic of New Jersey
Posts: 552
| Quote:
Originally Posted by m1jerm MIneral spirits worked well to pull a lot of the stickyness and dirt from the stock surface. Feels smooth and dry now, but those gouges need some sanding so I need to decide if I want to do a full refinish or just lay some pure tung oil over the top.
Orlando, I don't think I can turn it into a correct grade, but I am exciteded that I have something that might have seen combat issue even if it never saw combat, cuz this thing sure looks pristine. To those ends, if the reciever is '44 (found the date of manufacture on website based on the serial number), the barrel 43 (clearly stamped if that is indeed manufacture date), those might lead me to believe they are original mates from a '44 or later construction. I have a lot of numbers from the trigger group, oprod, hammer, etc, but those do not carry any clear date in thier numeration, and only the trigger group clearly states its SA manufacture. Is there a site or resource that might help in finding out if these pieces are WW2 era as well? | Take my advice steam out those dents, they are just dents and should come out.
Whatever you do don't do much if any sanding, i learned the hard way that sanding and gunstock don't work well, it makes them unbalanced, and then leads to you feeling your sanding work.
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February 13th, 2012, 04:05 PM
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#20 | | Rifleman
Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Jersey
Posts: 56
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Pepsi is right on, steam out those dents, dont sand it!!!!
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February 13th, 2012, 04:45 PM
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#21 | | Squad Leader
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Southern California
Posts: 250
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I will try to do what I can with the steam, but what the pic don't show is that the dings were so violent that there is a slight fraying of the wood surface one edge of the ding. As if the impact was extremely harsh from an angle. Once I was wiping it down with the Mineral spirits, I noticed the slight splintering there was catching the rag. So, even after I steam, I am sure some sanding is gong to have to happen just to know down the splintering there.
Luckily, none of this seems to have affected the structure of the wood itself, no cracking or chunking.
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February 13th, 2012, 10:16 PM
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#22 | | Squad Leader
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Southern California
Posts: 250
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlando PM me the list of parts and I will tell you the year they are for.
As the barrel being original it is possible but probably been replaced as the barrel is 15 months earlier. The 43 barrel could have come off a rifle with a damaged receiver and set back for repair | Orlando, PM sent. Thanks for any assistance. Sorry about the double messaging there, I am always getting booted out of logged in status and I never know what does and does not get sent.
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February 28th, 2012, 11:22 PM
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#23 | | Squad Leader
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Southern California
Posts: 250
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Okay, though I really like my Euro replacement stock, I decided to get a GI job, and it does look great. Matches the guards much better and the grain on the GI one is straight and true. Still a couple of stamps visible. A light SA CAW on the left near the pistol grip that is little more than a ghost along with what looks like the old bomb mark. Also, a rearsenal RIA EB on the left.
I will try to post some pics at some point.
My question is, the lockup is tight, just not as tight as the Euro stock. When i push against the back o fthe reciever, I here/feel a slight left/right budge, not big, but I do feel it. I have not detected a fore/aft movement. Is this normal? I would suspect it with a well used stock I suppose. SHould I just shoot it to see if it settles?
I have not idea of stock condition. It seems okay, but perhaps it has shrunk in storage, i will have to check with its former owner. Would a steaming aid in stronger lockup? I don't want to have to start shimming, but maybe its not necessary.
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February 29th, 2012, 05:56 AM
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#24 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,539
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Sounds like stock needs bedded for utmost accuracy. If you are happy with accuracy leave as is
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February 29th, 2012, 11:44 AM
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#25 | | Squad Leader
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Southern California
Posts: 250
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Orlando,
Thanks, I know bedding is an option, I just hate to alter the stock, its pretty nice and well, what if I ever want to shoot it competitively? Maybe that's a pipe dream and maybe I can just shift back to the other stock. I am told its been in storage for about 3 years in Texas.
I want to say I once saw a post where someone suggested an adjustment that could be made to the trigger group to get a tighter fit. I think they suggested a book that had info on it. I did a search but I can't seem to find the post now, guess I should not have been having a beer as I did the browsing. Has anyone seen or heard about this process or can point to the book I should be looking for?
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February 29th, 2012, 11:49 AM
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#26 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,539
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If you alter the trigger assembly area of the stock it isnt JCG Match legal, must be as issued
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February 29th, 2012, 12:25 PM
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#27 | | Scout Sniper
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Northwest
Posts: 826
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I'll echo steam the wood first! Removing material is way too easy compared to trying to add it back after the fact.
You maybe surprised at how well some of the dents come back even with the damaged wood. I'm for cleaning as much of the gunk out as opposed to removing material.
I prefer Tung oil over BLO too, but that's in the category of IMHO.
Do some subject searches here from the gun professionals on this forum. The same techniques for the trigger group on the M1A work on the Garand.
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