M14 Forum

08 Cayenne · January 16th, 2012, 05:48 PM

I've always wanted one and one has become available. Can someone please point me to an article or information on what to look for when purchasing?

Thanks
Frank

Quicksilvergoat · January 16th, 2012, 05:53 PM

The one that is available, what information do you have on it? What are you looking for in one? Are you looking for USGI or does it matter? WWII or post war? A lot of variables. If you can give us info on the one you are looking at then that will help a lot. What's the manufacturer? What's the serial number range? The usual info we all look for on here in regards to the M14/M1A.

I would also check out the CMP Forum located here: http://forums.thecmp.org/ Garands are their specialty and maybe a better option to purchase through them.

hammonje · January 16th, 2012, 05:54 PM

Low MW and TE. This means a 1 and 2-3 respectively. Bore shiny and clean. Inspect the muzzle to ensure it is free of defects.

Best to have correct barrel for receiver serial number.

Good metal finish with all USGI parts. Correct parkerization. Most are manganese phosphate.

Good USGI matching stock set with cartouches.

I buy for condition and accuracy.

Here is a great site to start:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzewegj7/

GET ONE FROM THE CMP. A SERVICE GRADE.

BoneDawg · January 16th, 2012, 06:00 PM

Something that was sent to me via e-mail when I asked the same question to my buddy that's an FFL. Not sure where he got it, but it looked sound and was pretty thorough.

You'll want to check all of the standard stuff you would look at on any rifle such as throat erosion and muzzle wear (2 and 1.5 respectfully are excellent for Garands), but there are a few things specific to the M1 you'll want to check. Some things can't be checked without field stripping the rifle, which most gun shops won't let you do.

-- The gas system should be tight. After making certain the rifle is unloaded, grasp the gas cylinder at the front sight and twist it. A little bit of play is normal and necessary, but if it's really sloppy, the rifle probably has problems with the splines that mate the gas housing and the barrel. A loose gas cylinder will ruin accuracy.

-- If you can, make up 8 rounds of dummy .30-06. Just seat any old bullets in sized cases, being certain to stay under the max overall length of 3.340 inches, then drill out the primer pockets so that there is absolutely no doubt the rounds are inert. You can also buy .30-06 snap caps if you aren't a handloader. Load the dummies into a Garand clip with the top round on the right. Use the dummy rounds in the clip to test loading the rifle. The loaded clip should seat easily with thumb pressure. Cycle the action by hand to test extraction and ejection. When the last round is ejected, the rifle should pop the clip out. If you have to force the clip into the rifle or if the rifle doesn't eject the empty clip, there are problems. This is not a full test of function, but it will highlight really big problems.

-- If at all possible, ask the seller to dismount the gas cylinder so that you can see the end of the operating rod. If the surface on the end is chipped, eroded, badly pitted or has chunks missing at the edge, that's very bad.

-- Be certain the rear sight moves up and down, left and right when the knobs are turned. You can see the movement if you crank through a dozen clicks or so. If the sight doesn't move or if the knobs are very difficult to turn, that's bad and expensive to fix. Good parts are getting hard to find.

-- The trigger group should fit tightly. If the trigger guard releases really easily, it will pop out when the rifle is fired.

A lot of this is pretty hard to determine if you aren't familiar with the M1, but at least I've given you an idea. It would help for you to study the Army's field manual on the M1. Here's an online version http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/gara… It hits all the major points you'll need to know.

If you can find a gunsmith knowledgeable about the M1, that's great. They are getting hard to find in 2010. Ask the seller to let you take the rifle to the smith for a checkup, just like you would take a used car to a mechanic. If a gun shop refuses to allow this, I would not buy the rifle. You'll probably have to put up some kind of security before they'll let you walk out of the shop with the rifle!

Hope this helps as much as it helped me....

08 Cayenne · January 16th, 2012, 06:29 PM

Thank You, great stuff. I just want to make sure its mechanically sound. I love the .30-06 and think this rifle would be fun. I was sent a picture of a bullet stuck in the end of the barrel. Does this prove/show anything?

Quicksilvergoat · January 16th, 2012, 07:30 PM

As for the bullet test yes and no. He's trying to show muzzle wear and often times a bullet is used if someone doesn't have a muzzle wear gauge. If it doesn't swallow the bullet you know enough that the muzzle isn't completely shot however you still don't know the real world measurement. If the muzzle swallows the bullet whole then you know the muzzle is shot out and it's gonna need a barrel for best accuracy. I really would look into the CMP especially for a first time buyer. That way you know what you are getting. CMP grades the rifles and if you check out their sales page it breaks down the different grades. If your in Ohio CMP has what they call the North Store and you can pick one out in person. I don't remember where in Ohio it's located.

ppcshooter1 · January 16th, 2012, 09:09 PM

Isn't CMP North at Camp Perry?

Marty

Vos Parate · January 17th, 2012, 08:07 AM

+ 1000 on the CMP!

Deacon · January 17th, 2012, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ppcshooter1

Isn't CMP North at Camp Perry?

Marty

Yes it is. Unless you are getting a very good deal on a Garand, they are the way to go.

normannewguy · January 17th, 2012, 03:38 PM

Yeah for a first Garand CMP is the best choice. Seen too many overpriced Garands in private sellers hands and most were barely field grades by CMP standards. One final words on Garands. Remember these are 50-60 yr old rifles. Sometimes they a need a little TLC but after that they still work great.

USMC 711 · January 18th, 2012, 08:40 PM

CMP will give you what you pay for. Try to buy the best grade you can afford. They do take the time to grade the bores with gauges and have been pleased even with the service rifles.

In time, you should invest in a set of your own gauges as it will make you a better consumer.

711

bd111 · January 19th, 2012, 03:31 AM

Get your paperwork in to CMP and order a Service Grade or go to the CMP store at Camp Perry and pick your own. If you decide later on you don't want to keep it you'll have a certificate that authenticates the rifle. Gun shows, pawn shops, retail gun dealers are a waste of $$$ more often than not.

Amsdorf · January 19th, 2012, 07:03 AM

I have purchased a number of Civilian Marksmanship Program Garands from participants on the CMP forum.

I have two Service Grades, one Correct Grades and two Collector Grades.

All great rifles, and great transactions. That's one way to go, and you will usually get them for a bit better than you would if you bought directly from CMP, plus, they are all cleaned up and degreased, ready to go.

You can also buy directly from the CMP, if you qualify per their requirements.

The bottom line is that CMP is the best place to acquire a Garand, either directly from them, or from a CMP customer.

Here's the link to the rifle sales page:
http://www.odcmp.com/Sales/rifles.htm

bd111 · January 19th, 2012, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amsdorf

I have purchased a number of Civilian Marksmanship Program Garands from participants on the CMP forum.

* * * and you will usually get them for a bit better than you would if you bought directly from CMP

???? I'm gonna call BS on that. Maybe if the owner is desperate, but CMP's prices set the floor of the market for good examples of the firearms in its inventory. Re-sellers want and usually get a handsome $$$ premium over what they paid, and often have swapped out parts maybe knowing or not knowing what they were doing.

Amsdorf · January 19th, 2012, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bd111

???? I'm gonna call BS on that. Maybe if the owner is desperate, but CMP's prices set the floor of the market for good examples of the firearms in its inventory. Re-sellers want and usually get a handsome $$$ premium over what they paid, and often have swapped out parts maybe knowing or not knowing what they were doing.

I have generally paid a bit *less* from private parties than I would have buying directly from CMP. You can call "BS" all you want, but this has been my experience.

Why?

People are sometimes, in my experience, willing to let it go for a bit less than what CMP is charging as a way to attract purchases from them. They bought their rifles long enough ago to make a tidy little profit from the sale.

Why would I buy one from a private party if I can get the exact same thing directly from CMP if the seller gives me absolutely no price break on what the CMP is selling.

Recent example: Got a beautiful SA Collector Grade for $1275, shipped. They are not available, at present, from CMP, but start at $1500, plus shipping, according to CMP's site. Could the seller have asked for more? Of course he could have, in fact, he did. We negotiated on price, and I got it for the price we settled on. I got a price break on that one.

Another example: Bought another Collector Grade for $1500, +30 for shipping. Same as what CMP charges when they have them in stock. Now, could the seller have asked for more? Sure he could. In fact, he did. We negotiated. He matched CMP's price.

I think my point stands. A person considering where and how to purchase a Garand should be aware of all opportunities, and to me, one of the smartest ways is to get on the CMP forum and pay attention to the guys selling their CMP rifles. Good deal and good oppoortunities.