November 4th, 2011, 10:32 AM
MGySgt USMC (ret)
Sorry, don't know why I missed this thread before.
Recutting the serrations is almost never an option because you have to reharden the area afterwards. Prior to the relatively new hardening procedure that came from the aircraft industry and SEinc. has used for many years, there was no way to reharden the receiver. Also, by the time you pay for machining and rehardening, you could buy one or two receivers to replace the worn out one.
Over the years, I've added the Rear Sight disc to over a couple dozen Garand and early M1A receivers.
I saw a few of these soldered onto Air Force built NM Garands from the 60's, but the guy who did it must have been one HECK of a good solderer as it was a silver braze/solder that was used. I've seen quite a few FAILED attempts at soldering this part on and some weakened the left "ear" of the receiver, that it later cracked or broke and that is saying something as there is very little stress on the receiver in that area.
Here are some things I've found out about using epoxy to glue them on.
You absolutely MUST take as much of the finish off the side of the disc and the receiver where the disc goes over it as you possibly can. Otherwise the best epoxy made won't stick properly. I use garnet paper wrapped around needle files to do it.
If you use JB Weld, get a BRAND NEW kit to do it. I glued one on it one time and tried to use the same kit three months later and on that one, the JB Weld did not stick properly. JB Weld is good stuff, but it seems to have a VERY SHORT shelf life once the tubes have been opened.
In the picture, it shows a bolt being used to both put tension on the disc until the epoxy sets up and align the rear sight disc and that is EXTREMELY important. If the disc is not glued on in the correct position, you can't get the elevation pinion to go in. Then if you try to cut or grind the disc so the pinion can go in, I can almost guarantee you the disc will pop off. Been there, done that, got the T shirt.
I once thought about making a special sized bolt to automatically align the disc, but I found that commercial M14 receivers vary so much, that would not work in a lot of cases. What I settled on was the pinion part of an M14 elevation pnion where the drum had cracked and the pinion was disassembled/ separate. I stick it through a standard rear sight base and for tension and alignment, I use a standard windage knob. OF COURSE, you want to put some kind of mold release on the pinion or bolt or whatever you use to align the disc. In this case, though, you could probably get away with using Pam or wax, though I prefer to use Brownell's Accra Release.
The serrations on the disc come in TWO sizes, a different one on each side. One matches the receiver and the other side has twice as many serrations per inch (for 1/2 minute elevation adjustment on a Non Hooded RS aperture). I have experimented with trying to glue the disc on so the finer serrations went against the receiver and thus give one full minute elevation adjustment. Well, they often don't stick well that way and I quit trying to do that. Better to glue the side of the disc where the serrations match the receiver serrations.
Once you epoxy the disc on properly, it will give you many years of service and is about the only economical way to save a receiver with worn out serrations for the elevation pinion.