This is a discussion on Frog Lube Paste within the The M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; I can't really think of a way to test if this stuff will provide enough protection, so I'm going to just give it a try.
I've been using the stuff for about a year now on my pistols and .308 bolt rifle and it's great.
I actually sent a message to the company over this past weekend asked if they have done any testing with the M14/M1a platform but no response yet.
I'll update if they get back to me.
I love my Froglube. You DO need to heat the gun up before applying it, and it takes a few seasonings to get it in all the way. If you use any petroleum product (that does include grease) on your gun, the Froglube WILL eat away at it. The neat part about the product is that it drys up after a few hours. Once you starting shooting, the gun heats up, and the Froglube gets all wet again. It's the only thing I use on my 1911's and AR's now.
I have been using Froglube for the past 9 months on Rem. 870 shotgun, Glock, revolver, 1911, M1 carbine and have been very happy with the performance, as stated by Froglube. I just cleaned and re-lubed M1A w/Froglube Monday to try out. Haven't shot it yet, so I am also interested in anyone else's experience w/Froglube on M14/M1A.
I see a potential "Danger Will Robinson!" on this stuff in our beloved M1/M14s!
This is a bigger deal on Garand style actions than on a simple sliding mechanism like a 1911. "Grease, Rifle", as well as Tetra Grease and other true grease products have been shown to protect and stay "on the gun" under most possible human operating conditions. Those of you that have read about the problems of designing a workable Infantry Rifle for the powerful .30-06 round, and the many designs that failed before the M1, can appreciate the forces involved. The Garand mechanism doesn't just slide, it uses a cam action to open the bolt with the op rod, under a lot of pressure and force. The M1, and the M14 that followed, are engineering and production marvels of a high order. The strict specifications US Ordnance had for everything, down to the lube, made the weapon work, and live. Deviating from their formula should be approached with caution.
The reason I think Dredsen's question is both timely and important is due to some unofficial "research" the gunwriter, Jim Thompson did on protecting an M1 Garand from damage when used with non-milspec loadings.
Thompson was curious about "what would happen" if heavier than normal bullets in commercial loadings were fired in his beloved M1s. So he went to the extreme, buying an unwanted case of 220gr. Winchester/Western Bear Loads in .30-06, 500 rounds from a California dealer to prove a point.
He lubed the subject M1, apparently a somewhat used but good condition standard M1, according to US Ordnance Manual directions - With GREASE -and proceeded to shoot over 450 rounds of these "abusive, heavy bullet bear loads" through this ordinary, "everyman's" M1. Cleaned and inspected it. No unusual wear or damage, anywhere, at all.
He then stripped off the grease, throughly, and relubed with oil - ONLY. The weapon seized up, with damage, in, as I recall from his book, SEVEN ROUNDS!!!
So I would proceed with caution, and not get hooked into the latest "Fad Lube" on anything I cared about. (There seems to be about one new lube a year, these days - for better or for worse.)
We know Tetra Grease works on an M1/M14. We are sure about rifle grease, and probably any good auto moly grease is likely OK. But if Froglube is affected by heat, or if it "burns off" - I won't be trying it on anything from the Garand family.
Those brave souls who want to be in the Vangard, using the newest and latest thing - have at it. Do a few long, hard rapid fire strings and take some measurements. I'll wait until you report back! CC
PS - Thanks for noting this, Dredsen. You and I differ occasionally, but I really am glad you mentioned this. You may save a number of people from damaging a very expensive (and possibly irreplacable!!) rifle. CC
Does it become noticably wet? With a 1911, wouldnt it hinder your grip after heating up, by getting on your hands?
Just where the parts heat up. The slide, barrel, and rails start to become lubricated after it heats up. Its enough to run the carbon out of the gun, but not enough that it's dripping. Now I suppose if you shot it enough to get the frame hot, it would do the same thing. I tend to not notice it anyway. My 1911 uses the Kimpro finish, and it's already slicker than snake oil