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Question on varied distance targets during match & adjusting elevation, or not

This is a discussion on Question on varied distance targets during match & adjusting elevation, or not within the Rifle Competition forums, part of the Rifle Forum category; I apologize if this is a silly question. I got into three gunning earlier this year. I don't have an AR, so I've been running ...


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Old November 7th, 2016, 05:22 PM   #1
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Question on varied distance targets during match & adjusting elevation, or not

I apologize if this is a silly question. I got into three gunning earlier this year. I don't have an AR, so I've been running some of the woodies out of my safe (M1 carbine, M1 garand, and M1a that I acquired two months ago).

Most of the local matches I attend are only 25-50 yards on rifle. I know the zero there, so I just leave it as is.

However, there's this one larger match I like to attend (and get my ass kicked but I learn so much). On one stage the targets go from 75, to 200, to 300, and they even had a 400 yard target this time. The par time was 120 seconds for 6 long range rifle targets, 10 shotgun and a spinning star for pistol, so no extra time to mess around.

When I have a stage like that, that is timed (obviously) should I be fiddling with the elevation knob per distance, or just plan ahead and think, 'ok, at this yardage I need to aim 2" higher' or whatnot? Obviously the guys with glass adjust their scopes as they can do so quickly. But I am not sure what the best strategy is for me or what is normal protocol here. I don't even know who to ask in person as almost everyone I run with has a sight.

Thanks in advance.

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Old November 7th, 2016, 05:27 PM   #2
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This is precisely why the military adopted a Battlesight Zero. You zero your rifle for 250 meters.

If the target is beyond that you aim at the neck, if it is closer you aim at the waist.

The Army has been using pop-up silhouette targets for qualification for decades, 50-300 meters. You don't have time to fiddle with sight adjustments.

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Old November 7th, 2016, 06:04 PM   #3
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If you want to use an optic, check out a reticle that might give you various aiming points to associate with different ranges.

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Old November 7th, 2016, 07:46 PM   #4
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I would use the elevation adjustments on what ever sights you are using. Shooting faster and missing means nothing. If it takes more time to get a hit then its worth the effort.

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Old November 7th, 2016, 08:27 PM   #5
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I would suggest following KurtC's advice on using a BZO. The only score counted is hits-No "A" zone to worry about. Therefore, at 100 yds you're about 3" high from your point of aim (POA). At 300 yds you would be about 3-5" low from POA. 400 yds would probably put you at around 18" low (or maybe more). The "neck high" aim may be ok. I would also suggest confirming the BZO at 250 yards. Just because it seems "dead on" at 50 yards may not actually work right when you move the target back.

If you want to adjust elevation and you know your knob is calibrated correctly, go ahead. But in my experience, most people's estimation of distance is way off once it goes past 200 yards. If they stated the distances in the match outline then use it, otherwise go with BZO.


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Old November 7th, 2016, 08:39 PM   #6
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In basic we were shooting 147 grain ball; Drill Sgt. told us at the 300 meter target you aim at the neck;;at the 350 meter you aim 1 inch over the head;; targets were going down. Your aiming point might differ due to the size of your bullet. you need to go out and practice with what you are going to be using. And maybe take a spotter along with you.

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Old November 8th, 2016, 05:17 AM   #7
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It depends on the size and shape of the targets, and whether you just need to 'hit them' or if there are scoring rings.
If the targets are 'sized' for seeing naked eye you should be OK, but if they were designed for 'scope seeing' it might be difficult.

If you can determine a good sight picture with the front sight and the target for the various distances, then fine - use hold-over or whatever.

You shouldn't have to look at the markings on the elev knob - just remember how many clicks to-from each distance.

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Old November 8th, 2016, 05:29 AM   #8
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BZO or use something like a 2x mildot/Mrad scope is what I would use.

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Old November 8th, 2016, 06:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironsites View Post
I apologize if this is a silly question. I got into three gunning earlier this year. I don't have an AR, so I've been running some of the woodies out of my safe (M1 carbine, M1 garand, and M1a that I acquired two months ago).

Most of the local matches I attend are only 25-50 yards on rifle. I know the zero there, so I just leave it as is.

However, there's this one larger match I like to attend (and get my ass kicked but I learn so much). On one stage the targets go from 75, to 200, to 300, and they even had a 400 yard target this time. The par time was 120 seconds for 6 long range rifle targets, 10 shotgun and a spinning star for pistol, so no extra time to mess around.

When I have a stage like that, that is timed (obviously) should I be fiddling with the elevation knob per distance, or just plan ahead and think, 'ok, at this yardage I need to aim 2" higher' or whatnot? Obviously the guys with glass adjust their scopes as they can do so quickly. But I am not sure what the best strategy is for me or what is normal protocol here. I don't even know who to ask in person as almost everyone I run with has a sight.

Thanks in advance.
If you are shooting with irons, and only have 120 seconds to complete the stage I would suggest that you NOT try to adjust the sights during the match.

As suggested by others, use the Battle sight Zero system. Use this as a GUIDE to finding a zero range that will put your POI on target from 50 to 300 yds. using YOUR rifle and Your ammo.

Take notes, then make a range card with the holdover value for each yardage that you will be shooting.

Good luck,
Rich

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