M14 Forum

apf383 · February 8th, 2012, 01:54 PM

Great tutorial, thanks for the help. Tagged, and btt.

HPGunner · March 14th, 2012, 10:54 PM

I have a new Springfield M1A standard and also my first M1A. My gas lock stops at the 6 o'clock position maybe a tiny hear past the final resting place of lining up with the gas cylinder. I can probably hand tight it past the 6 o'clock position to maybe about 6:10 but didn't want to try to force it that direction because I didn't want to disturb anything as this was my first time removing the gas plug and wanted to keep it the way it was from the factory.

Question: If it has shot fine without any issues and pretty accurate for my standards - should I consider shimming the gas cylinder?

Also another question: Using my Sadlak GC Wrench on my Springfield - I noticed the wrench doesn't slip all the way through the entire gas cylinder. It goes over the gas lock and over the very front of the gas cylinder. What is the correct way to use the GC Wrench - is to put the entire wrench on the gas cylinder? And thus, in my case, I need to find another wrench that fits my Springfield gas cylinder better?

This write-up is great and I learned so much especially checking the gas block alignment with a 1/16 Allen wrench alleviated my fears that I did anything to disturb the gas block when removing the gas plug.

45R · March 21st, 2012, 03:33 PM

Thanks for the great video Tony!

Earthquake · April 1st, 2012, 03:56 PM

After shimming my GC it still has a little play on the splines, I was thinking about using some "Loctite 680" retaining compound on the splines. It is a high temp product that will fill up to a .015" gap. Will this hurt any thing?

Casey

tonyben · April 1st, 2012, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HPGunner

I have a new Springfield M1A standard and also my first M1A. My gas lock stops at the 6 o'clock position maybe a tiny hear past the final resting place of lining up with the gas cylinder. I can probably hand tight it past the 6 o'clock position to maybe about 6:10 but didn't want to try to force it that direction because I didn't want to disturb anything as this was my first time removing the gas plug and wanted to keep it the way it was from the factory.

Question: If it has shot fine without any issues and pretty accurate for my standards - should I consider shimming the gas cylinder?

Also another question: Using my Sadlak GC Wrench on my Springfield - I noticed the wrench doesn't slip all the way through the entire gas cylinder. It goes over the gas lock and over the very front of the gas cylinder. What is the correct way to use the GC Wrench - is to put the entire wrench on the gas cylinder? And thus, in my case, I need to find another wrench that fits my Springfield gas cylinder better?

This write-up is great and I learned so much especially checking the gas block alignment with a 1/16 Allen wrench alleviated my fears that I did anything to disturb the gas block when removing the gas plug.

As long as it goes over the lock, it's fine. If it goes over the cylinder; bonus! I really don't think it matters as it is still keeping stress off the splines of the barrel.

If it shoots fine, it wouldn't hurt, If it shoots better, again; bonus! If it hurts accuracy, just remove the shims and all should be back to normal.

Tony.

tonyben · April 1st, 2012, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Earthquake

After shimming my GC it still has a little play on the splines, I was thinking about using some "Loctite 680" retaining compound on the splines. It is a high temp product that will fill up to a .015" gap. Will this hurt any thing?

Casey

IIRC, some gunsmiths do this already. It is not permanent and should easily be removed with some heat.

Tony.