M14 Forum

Gus Fisher

Really GOOD post.

As NM Armorers, we used to "walk the line" with a few tools and parts in our pockets, just in case something like the extractor popped out or broke during a match.

One thing that we found was REALLY handy when using the .30-06 case and a new ejector & spring and a new extractor spring & plunger (these parts are assemblies of two parts each) and that was a jeweler's screwdriver with a small flat blade. You can use the jeweler's screwdriver to force the plunger into the bolt and that allows the extractor to go in easier.

glocker21

I knew I had seen this before, I had a extractor break this morning. This tip helped me get my M1a "Mykenzie" back on line.

Requiem

I'm having a helluva time with this right now... I'm using the .30-06 method. Here's what a did:

inserted case into chamber, let bolt close on it and extractor grab the rim

pulled trigger letting the hammer fall to keep pressure on firing pin so it doesn't come out

took a small screw driver and hammer and tried to tap both spots (that I could see) on the extractor through the magwell. Tried for probably 10 minutes straight, would not budge.


What am I doing wrong? Or is my extractor that effed up?

ripcurlksm

Requiem,

Are you trying to tap out a stock Springfield extractor? They are tougher to knock out, as they have a deeper divot in them.

Here is what I did. I put oil wherever I visibly could get it between any contact points. I tried for 30 min to tap out the extractor through the magwell on the piece of the extractor that actually slides through the bolt. I used a properly sized punch and mallot and I beat the crap out of. It would not come out.

I switched the punch to rest on the actual extractor hook that is exposed/visible through the magwell and hit it as hard as I could and it came right out. It is better to hit it once really hard then 20x like a sissy. One hit transfers all the energy to the extractor and pushes it out. 20 sissy hits transfer all the energy to the bolt, rails and everything.

So give it a really hard shot on the extractor hook and it will pop out.

JIMDOG708

This will save me about two hours the next time my bolt flies apart!!

panzersergeant

Thanks for the tip!

bd111

What Gus said. It's all you need, it'll wrap up inside your bolt tool if you're trying to travel light. If you don't use that '06 empty you're sure to lose a spring or ejector if you have to replace an extractor in the field.

Select Fire

Awesome thread! My bolt flew apart at the range and when I got home I followed the instructions, plus the great pictures, and voila! I'm back in business flinging brass.

sirtirithon

I finally worked up the courage to install my USGI extractor (garand extractor). I am having the occasional jam between the ARMS 18 & the op rod. I understand the USGI extractor flings the brass lower to prevent this. Either that or I have to trim the ejector spring. Anyways, I don't have a spent '06 casing so I used a 7.62 casing & lightly compressed the casing into the bolt using a wooden bench vise with a small board supporting the rear of the bolt underneath. I laid a shop towel under it to catch the guts when they flung out. When the extractor lifted slightly (I positioned the bolt upside down) I used a punch & lightly tapped the extractor out. It worked great! I reversed the process to reinstall. Thanks for the pictures and instructions, I wouldn't have tried this without understanding how it all works together! Update: its been well over 100 rounds since installing the USGI extractor and not one single jam! Looks like that did the trick.

tonyben

Tag for sticky...

deces

On a m1a if you need more room to reinsert the extractor claw, you can insert the chamber brush in the chamber instead of useing a spent shell