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New to M14's: What to do/not do?

130K views 165 replies 129 participants last post by  tonyben 
#1 · (Edited)
As the title says, I'm new to M14's.

Actually, I don't even have one yet, but will have a Springfield Scout Squad soon.

What I'm looking for are tips/advice on what to do/not do with the gun.

For example, it is not good to let a 1911 slide slam shut on an empty chamber.

Is it bad to let an M14 bolt slam on an empty chamber?

What places on the M14 need lube?

Is CLP fine for an M14 or does it require grease?

I'm looking for little tidbits of advice like this on the M14.

Thanks!
 
#77 ·
reply

I just bought my M1A and inside the manual there was an article provided by Springfield Armory regarding slam-fires. I know it applies to single loading of cartridges, but it may be of help...it was to me. Apparently, the bolt closes with such force that the slightly protruding firing pin (I do mean slight) will actually dimple the primer, and civilian cartridges can (and have) discharge, causing the obvious problems and dangers. This is seemingly less likely to happen on mil spec ammo due to the primers being slightly recessed and not as sensitive. The writer(s) state that should you want to load and fire one round at a time that you always load the mag and let the bolt strip off the round, as this slows the bolt down just enough to alleviate the problem. I read nothing about letting the bolt slam on an empty chamber, but I generally don't do much of that anyway, I tend to resist it a little with my hand on the charging handle.KBAR1
 
#78 ·
This M1A\M14 thing

I traded one of my preban colt rifles for a socom16 last month. After one trip to the range and one battle pack of ammo I was hooked. came home called my buddy a dealer and ordered a standard SA model. Just brought it to the range yesterday and right out of the box I had 1' groups & 100 yds. It gets better. I went to the 200 yd range and shot an impressive 1"-2" group as well. Man such a pleasure to shoot as well. I mean no match grade ammo or match grade barrel what so ever. Is there such a bug, have I been bitten by it and how long does it last [forever]MCORPS1 . Either way I love it. Hats off to the famous M14 and now I understand why its so important to keep it alive.....DI5
 
#79 · (Edited by Moderator)
dcobra823 said:
I traded one of my preban colt rifles for a socom16 last month. After one trip to the range and one battle pack of ammo I was hooked. came home called my buddy a dealer and ordered a standard SA model. Just brought it to the range yesterday and right out of the box I had 1' groups & 100 yds. It gets better. I went to the 200 yd range and shot an impressive 1"-2" group as well. Man such a pleasure to shoot as well. I mean no match grade ammo or match grade barrel what so ever. Is there such a bug, have I been bitten by it and how long does it last [forever]MCORPS1 . Either way I love it. Hats off to the famous M14 and now I understand why its so important to keep it alive.....DI5
I'm glad to hear such good things about a SAI standard model. I have a standard and I love it. But at these boards, I keep hearing so much about national match, loaded, super match, etc.. I start thinking that I should have got a better one. For example, Do you really need a chrome lined barrel?

Also, I bought some Hoppes gun grease for my M1A. Does anyone know if that is a good choice for this rifle?
 
#82 ·
Ive got a newbie question for you guys. I see alot of talk about USGI parts and questionable current production parts and was wondering, are there parts that I should be looking to "upgrade" to improve reliability of my rifle? (SOCOM). I havent had any problems before (knock on wood), but Id much rather be proactive than reactive.
 
#83 ·
Tengu said:
Ive got a newbie question for you guys. I see alot of talk about USGI parts and questionable current production parts and was wondering, are there parts that I should be looking to "upgrade" to improve reliability of my rifle? (SOCOM). I havent had any problems before (knock on wood), but Id much rather be proactive than reactive.
If you aren't certain that your extractor is USGI, then replace it with one that is. This will prevent the infamous spontaneous-bolt-disassembly event.

Other than that, shoot the hell out of it.
 
#84 · (Edited by Moderator)
If it ain't broke, don't break it. However, most M14/M1A owners buy a set of bolt guts(extractor&ejector w/springs and spare firing pin), a few op rod springs(they wear out faster than any other part I can think of) and some get a N.M. op rod spring guide, as well as having the gas cylinder & barrel band unitized. These last two are more for accuracy and smoother action. If you have problems with extractors popping out on your M1A, I would read member Art Lappino's sticky at the top of this forum. Could be the roller is not letting the lugs fully lock which could explain bolt rollers and extractors failing or flying off. I don't own an M1A brand rifle and certainly am not a professional smith, nor claim to be. I've learned more about the M14/M1A rifle on this forum than about anywhere else. We have some very knowledgeable members here. MCORPS1
 
#141 ·
Go get "The M14 Complete Assembly Guide" shows you how to disassemble and reassemble in a very helpful step by step guide. A must for any M1A / M14 owner.
Available on PDF on scribd, but I can't post a url, because I do not have 5 posts yet... Great site, and great thread! I am new to M1A's, and will hopefully have my first one soon! Thank you everyone for the great info!

Do a google search for:
the m14 complete assembly guide pdf

First link that comes up...
 
#92 ·
My ChiCom


+1

I have only shot my M14S 40 times and I just used regular Rem Oil. I guess I need to whip out a .45 shell and get to greasing.

Also does Springfield Armory sell forged bolts for in case my ChiCom bolt goes bad?EXPRT1
 
#87 ·
good info

Hi all,

Wanted to say thank you and you have a great site. I am used to my M4 so this seems overwelhming GI8 I just purchased a SOCOM II (should be here Friday). I did not realize it took so much maintenance which makes me glad I found this site otherwise I would probably screw something up thinking it is as simple as my M4. So should I be replacing the factory parts with USGI parts on the SOCOM II?

Thanks
USAF2
 
#89 ·
Hi all,

Wanted to say thank you and you have a great site. I am used to my M4 so this seems overwelhming GI8 I just purchased a SOCOM II (should be here Friday). I did not realize it took so much maintenance which makes me glad I found this site otherwise I would probably screw something up thinking it is as simple as my M4. So should I be replacing the factory parts with USGI parts on the SOCOM II?

Thanks
USAF2

I think the M1A is simpler than the AR, and am pretty sure I could fieldstrip an M1A or cleaning faster than an AR - those itty bitty parts are harder to deal with than the huge ones on an M1A. And one good thing about an M1A is you can do most of the necessary cleaning & oiling in the field without doing more than popping the trigger group out and removing the barreled action from the stock. Hit everything with a toothbrush & rag, wet patch/bore & chamber brush/wet patch/dry patch, little bit of lube on the shiny areas (op rod, spring, & guide, receiver rails, bolt), and a drop or 2 on the hammer spring & all pivot points on the trigger group. I was always a LSA fan with my M1A, they seem to like a thicker lube than ARs/M16s. Put it all back together, and you've spent maybe 3 minutes.
 
#88 · (Edited)
I got my first SA M1A 20+ years ago, but I'm just lately getting beyond the plinking stage with them (just retired and now have the time). I'm really learning some great tips from this thread. Thanks guys.

+1 on the relatively new book: The M14 Complete Assembly Guide, Vol. 2 by Kuleck/McKee.

I have a steel Sadlak scope mount on one gun and an SEI on another. Both are quality and rock solid. The Sadlak allows for 'see-through' sight use, but that causes it to sit higher. Sadlak now makes a titanium version to save a few ounces, but it will make your wallet a lot lighter, too.GI8

If you load for heavier projectiles like the 168gr HPBT or larger, Sadlak makes a new TiN piston with a longitudinal slot to reduce strain on the op rod. This piston will NOT work on the lighter mil-surp ammo.
 
#90 ·
Great thread going here. I have a very noobish question but I guess it might contribute. I know that my AR is labeled for 5.56x45 but I can also safely shoot .223 through it. It is unsafe to shoot 5.56 through a .223 marked barrel though.

Is it the same way with an M14? I thought I had read it was backwards with an M14. For example, you can shoot 7.62x51 through a .308 marked barrel but not a .308 through a 7.62x51 barrel. Correct?
 
#93 ·
I have heard that Chi-com bolts are not built with the same dimensions as the USGI bolt. I think you have to send your rifle into Fulton's or Smith to get it all re-done, but I am pretty sure you can purchase a spare bolt from the Canadian company that sells Poly's, Marstar, though they may only fit on Polys. Not too sure about the interchangeability between Norinco's/Poly's.

I have also heard about the .308/7.62 NATO thing. So I should steer clear of .308 Winchester ammunition?
 
#94 ·
So much for Marstar

Looks like I am the owner of a new TRW bolt for my Norinco M14S, and I only got suckered for $179. If those other companies come out with forged bolts for less it will be because I bought a USGI one. So you guys can thank me later.GI8
 
#95 · (Edited)
Word is the poly/norinco bolts are soft and the headspace gets long quick!I cant recall anyone replacing thier chinese bolts with sai bolts only USGI bolts.Guees if the money needs spent for a new bolt and possibly bbl plus the needed machine work to make the GI bolt work start with the best bolt available USGI.On the other hand ive heard the recievers once the USGI bolts installed is about the best setup you can get next to genuine GI recievers.If your barrel will work keep it as ive heard the chinese are very good chrome lined bbls as far as sights and op rods ive heard good and bad so i guees youll just need your smith to check out the soghts and time will tell if your op rods OK,some say there as hard and long lived as GI.Trigger groups Im not sure about.But efinetly watch the headspace on that chinee bolt,You did get a steal on the TRW bolt as long as the tab measures out good.

Congrats on the fine forged reciever on tha chinee rifle they are in high demand in the states and rapidly getting more xpensive.Some going for 2x what Ive seen marstar selling forged reciever norincos for.GI1

7.62/.308 pretty much interchangable unless you try to shoot heavvier than around 168 grHPBT in your M1a that will do real bad things to an M1a op rod,Your better off sticking to quality mil surplus such as south african 7.62,Ive been using privi partizan 145 gr new man FMJ at $90/200 but I know it shootys good and is safe and a shorty while ago SA was almost as expensive.i had heard the price had gone back down to about $50/200 rd battlepack but it may be gone again,beware of other surplus like pakistani and indian,ask around as to suitable surplus its getting real scarce.Sellier and bellot also works well for me but again were talking around 100/200 rds.Win,Fed,rem all sell a generic/"overruns" FMJ 150 gr that are made to military pressures /bullet wieghts
but are even more pricey at $120-130/200rds.Time will tell if the quality surplus market reappears
around a year and a half ago you could get all the qual;ity 7.62 you wanted at excellent prices and now its gone just as fast.If I recall the SA 200 rd battlepacks were 30 bucks or so with case prices even cheaper.Stay away from the wolf and associated steel cased ammo in your M1As no matter the price.Some use it w/o problems but your weapons worth to much to take a chance IMHO!And when your ready to swap out that chinee bolt for a good GI bolt find a real good gunsmith im sure ther are alot of folks here who can reccomend a good one.i hear Warbird keeps the chinese bbls
when he does his conversions,something to consider! and ive heard hes very good but hes one of many im sure.
 
#98 ·
I am responding to what marksman said in this thread concerning removal of the action from the stock. This is the problem I am having concerning cleaning my rifle. I need to take the bolt out to clean it and grease the rollers but my rifle is bedded and from what i've read " you should not take it apart alot" Well thats my problem I need to clean it after I shoot it and I shoot it alot. So what gives here ? It appears to be a catch 22. I have the sage rail system on a synthetic stock m1a-nm-stainless barrel. any info appreciated
 
#100 ·
M118LR ammo?

hi,
i am planning on shooting M118LR ammo out of my M1A supermatch, is this a bad idea? i read in this thread that 168 grain bullet was the heaviest that you should go and the M118LR has a 175 grain bullet. also, i wanted to get the book on assembly & maintanence for the M1A. is there a vol 1 and vol 2 and do i need to get both of them?
thanks for the help.

jmf_tracy
 
#101 ·
Hello all

As a newbie to the group, I have been lurking in the background reading and learning. Almost all I have read has been top notch tools for learning. Some comments in particular I took full bore. Scott Duffs books in in my library now, a Dewey rod and bore guide are in my toolbox, and I managed to aquire some brand new mags from my First Sergeant. CLP in quantity. Almost 4000 rounds of premium Lake City 168's ready to go. I have 1 M1A now, a Springfield NM model, and I'm building it into my own M21 project. LOve those M21's. Anyway, when I get it "completed" and on line, I'll try to post some pix for you all. Of all the "toys" I have, this one rifle is a true labor of love. I can't wait to get it up and running. Still proudly serving for one more year!!

CSM Dave
HQ's, 5th BN VSG, SPECOPS, VANGEXPRT1 ARMY1 CIB3
Vermont
 
#102 ·
If one were to only clean the barrel, should you turn the gas port off as to prevent solvent from getting into the gas cylinder?

Should the gas cylinder plug be finger tight or wrench tight? The bugger was on so tight from the factory it took two of us with a wrench to get it off.

Also, you'll have to pardon my horrible lack of vocabulary and pictures for this on. On the top right side of the receiver, where the right side of the bolt slides across the top when you pull the bolt back, is there supposed to be a tiny little ridge there? It looks consistent with a lip formed from constant metal on metal friction, however the rifle only has a hundred rounds through it. The reason I ask is because I didn't notice this while I was inspecting the rifle before I fired it the first time.

This is for an M1a, BTW.

Thanks!
 
#103 · (Edited)
Still somewhat Green but now with carbon smoke in my nose.

I went through the same questions before I purchased my first M1A.

I got to a point where I decided I need to just buy a new rifle and begin the hands on training. Thereby avoiding the pitfalls of the used market, which is sure to cause problems for the inexperienced.

Then, I suggest you take yourself and your new rifle to an Appleseed.

There you will have experienced instructors versed in the main battle rifle you now own. Like me, you'll be taught how to sight it, shoot it, strip it, clean it and lube it.

You'll shoot the AQT, and begin your path to becoming a Rifleman.

You'll be doing the most important thing you can for Liberty. You'll be actively expressing your 2nd Amendment rights with like minded individuals, all preparing to reach Rifleman scores, and intent on passing on the American tradition of marksmanship to family, friends and strangers.

Get Scott Duff's Guide to the M-14, get a Dewey rod and guide and plastilube from Scotts website. This book will direct you, believe me.

Keep it simple, Hoppes 9 powder solvent, patches for 308, some q-tips, brass bore brush, and gas cylinder tools, a nylon bristle toothbrush or something similar and more specific for gun cleaning and a ratcheted chamber brush.

Here is a video I bought that will help too. Glass Bedding M1A/M14 with Art Luppino. Don't let the glass bedding part throw you off, Art goes through cleaning and lubing.

Dry Practice is very important to learn trigger control to not disturb the sight picture.

Just go here (appleseedinfo dot org) and the rest - with diligence and dedication to the present and the future - will fall into place.

Sincerely, in Liberty,
MikeP

PS:

About the video, I'm wrong about what I said there. Art has made several videos. The one I have, which will show you how to clean and lube the rifle assembled is: Center X M1A/M14 Maintenance & Cleaning for Improved Accuracy

It is really geared for newcomers to the M14 style rifle.

The best to you.
 
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