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New to M14's: What to do/not do?

130K views 165 replies 129 participants last post by  tonyben 
#1 · (Edited)
As the title says, I'm new to M14's.

Actually, I don't even have one yet, but will have a Springfield Scout Squad soon.

What I'm looking for are tips/advice on what to do/not do with the gun.

For example, it is not good to let a 1911 slide slam shut on an empty chamber.

Is it bad to let an M14 bolt slam on an empty chamber?

What places on the M14 need lube?

Is CLP fine for an M14 or does it require grease?

I'm looking for little tidbits of advice like this on the M14.

Thanks!
 
#27 ·
I have found the $2 bolt roller tool much more effective than a 45 case or just fingers. It is like packing any bearing, push grease in front untill it comes out the rear side of roller. I think mine is a Bager, can't remember. Still the best $2 I have spent.
 
#28 ·
Jack Orr said:
I have found the $2 bolt roller tool much more effective than a 45 case or just fingers. It is like packing any bearing, push grease in front untill it comes out the rear side of roller. I think mine is a Bager, can't remember. Still the best $2 I have spent.
Jack I agree with you
I have a badger and it works much, much better than a .45 case. Somethings you can skimp on, somethings are better to shll out on
 
#29 ·
Welcome to the "Newbie Club"

Just got one myself a couple of weeks ago.Thanks to the folks on this board and other info I've run across,I finally got the courage up to take my rifle apart to have a look and for a preshoot clean & lube session.

With regards to this thread I have a couple of ?'s too.

Would it be okay to use RIG grease on bolt roller and op rod spring and along receiver sides where bolt moves and Tetra gun grease on other moving parts like op rod guide so it wouldn't be so gummy maybe?

Also,If I get an Otis cleaning kit,it should be used/pulled from rec. to muzzle correct?

Good Luck & Enjoy your New 'Toy" GI6
 
#30 ·
Congrats on your new purchase, I recently bought one of my own and i know the feeling. I rarely look at any other gun parts anymore (other than my beloved M1911). I agree with all the other guys Get Duffs book, ill add get differents book too I have learned alot from it as well about the origin of the M14, which really helps out with which parts to buy and what to look for at gunshows and stuff. Have fun with your new toy and when u get it send Pics!
 
#31 ·
75TD said:
Welcome to the "Newbie Club"

Just got one myself a couple of weeks ago.Thanks to the folks on this board and other info I've run across,I finally got the courage up to take my rifle apart to have a look and for a preshoot clean & lube session.

With regards to this thread I have a couple of ?'s too.

Would it be okay to use RIG grease on bolt roller and op rod spring and along receiver sides where bolt moves and Tetra gun grease on other moving parts like op rod guide so it wouldn't be so gummy maybe?

Also,If I get an Otis cleaning kit,it should be used/pulled from rec. to muzzle correct?

Good Luck & Enjoy your New 'Toy" GI6
Pick a grease and use it sparingly. A little goes a long way. I basically put it on & wipe most off. This leaves me with a thin film. Too much grease and it becomes a sand and dirt magnet, plus it slings grease where you don't want it, like the chamber or your face. The Otis system is pulled from breach to muzzle.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Here's some stuff I learned the "hard way" or from my FL buds:

1. Buy the tools you need now, or as you go and you'll be money ahead in the long run. This Basic Tools link might help get you started.

2. Buy both the Duff and Kuhnhausen books - what one doesn't explain in detail, the other does. This is especailly important when you finally get around to making some accuracy mods.

3. According to the pros and advanced shooters here, one of the single most significant accuracy mods (aside from a new barrel) is shimning or unitizing the gas system. You can buy the shims from a variety of places. I got mine from Fulton Armory, but you can get them from several other folks as well.

4. Shimming the gas cylinder is a do-it-yourself project - unitizing the gas cylinder isn't. That's why we have the pros like Hueygunner(send him an pm and he'll get back to you), Warbird , and Ted Brown . Very positive feedback from members using their services.

Here is my experience with Shimming the gas cylinder.

5. Get some spare parts, starting with a USGI extractor kit. I bought the complete kit containing the extractor, spring and plunger cuz you never know where those little dudes are gonna end up if you don't buy an M1/M1A bolt assembly tool.

6. I keep a spare bolt rebuild kit around, just in case. It always easier and a whole lot quicker to have parts on hand and than having to wait for them to be shipped AFTER you need them. I still don't need it - but I've got it! GI1

BTW - buy the bolt roller greaser when you buy your spare parts. ICONSMILE

7. Next on the list for me was a Badger op rod spring guide. The difference in the cycling of the bolt is amazing.

8. The next major mod a lot of us do is either purchase a NM trigger group or send our trigger group off to Tim or Ted and have them do it - don't try this yourself unless you've had armorer training - it ain't worth the risk. Check the PX frequently for deals on trigger groups.

9. If you are going to disassemble your gas system for shimming or to have it unitized, do yourself a favor and buy a couple of spare castle nuts and several of those pesky little set screws. BTW - don't over-tighten the castle nut (Duff and Kuhnhausen both mention this, IIRC) or it will affect accuracy - Boy, do I know this first-hand. ICONEEK ICONEEK ICONEEK

10. Stocks, Stocks, Stocks!!! A major "dresser-upper" for most of us. GI1 Unless you like the stock that came with your rifle, you'll probably want a new one or two to play around with. There are so many variables here, just post a question in the appropriate forum and we'll get back at ya - ASAP.

I got lucky and got a "real-deal" Whamo-Camo Renegade for mine. I hear Karsten does some pretty fine work, also.

11. Scopes and mounts. Same as stocks. This is my personal opinion, from my own experience, so please take it for what it's worth.

You will need a good, steel mount and a set of good rings for your M1A. If you decide to mount a 1" tube, you'll also need some spacers (and some lapping tools,etc). Check out the back threads in the Accessories forum (It's always a great idea to "meander" around the old threads - what a great store house of info.)

I bought an ARMS #18 mount (installed it myself with "No Problemo's - except I lost the instructions and one of the excellent folks here sent me a copy - Thanks, TomO!!! GI6)

I decided on the ARMS #22M QD 30mm rings, which allow the mounting of the scope and I'm still able to use my irons. YMMV.

I tried differnent scopes - yep, I had to buy the 1" spacers, before I decided on a 16X Super Sniper from SWFA (16X??? All Right, I admit it - I'm old). QD rings allow me to remount the scope with no "drift".

You better figure on getting some type of cheek piece (either adjustable or strap-on) for scope work.

12. Ammo - buy some small lots of various kinds of Milsurp and see which type of ammo YOUR rifle likes best. Mine has a decided preference for Aussie, but that doesn't mean your rifle will do the same. When you find some that works, hit the Ammo Bunker and click on the sticky by sv sniper or visit the Rifle Company link by XIV Corps for the best deals in case lots of ammo. Buy as much as you can...

Nope - I don't reload and as long as milsurp is still relatively inexpensive, I see no need to attempt using ammo that will automatically void my SA warranty if something goes wrong. Besides that, I know that my SA Loaded Standard is a clone of the M14 Battle Rifle and not a target piece.

On the other hand, I don't shoot competition - however the paper on the target hangers and the rocks in the vertical backstop at my range are in definite jeopardy!!! ICONLOL

At the Range -

Actually, before you hit the range the first time make sure your rifle is clean and well greased. A significant number of reported problems with new rifles come from not being properly lubed the first time out.

Make sure everything is clean and tight before you fire the rifle.

It's easiest for me to lock the bolt open, insert the mag and rock it back to lock it in place. Then I release the bolt and let the first round strip out of the mag into the chamber. Be sure to check the safety - I let a friend shoot my rifle(newbie to M14 rifles) and he darn near tried to break the trigger off pulling on the thing trying to make the rifle go bang - he had the safety on. GI8 GI8 GI8 GI1

Remember a good crisp trigger pull - no "milking" like you would with a bench rifle.

Speaking of benches - I bought a shooting mat so I can shoot prone (with and without a bi-pod). I also shoot sitting, and off-hand. Don't use the bench all the time - these are battle rifles - it's more satisfying and fun to shoot them the way they were intended to be used.

Unless you're saving them for some reason, try out all of your mags for functioning before you lock them up in the safe.

If you do use the bench for sighting, groups, etc. I recommend using your range bag rather than a bipod or BR shooting stand. Make sure that no part of your gas system or barrel is resting on anything. Bipods make your rifle "bounce" when used on a hard bench.

IMHO, you don't need to go through any extensive "break-in" with a non-match barrel. Just clean it up and shoot the darn thing.

Most important - have fun!!!

Here are a few handy links from your friends here on the FL:

General Cleaning of the M14/M1A

How to remove stubborn gas plugs

Gas cylinder drill sizes for cleaning the gas cylinder

Grease I use Tetra or USGI grease pots or Lubriplate, in that order.

Might do some cruising through the old posts and add some more info later, but this ought to get us started. BGRIN1

db
 
#39 ·
coldweather

The ambient air temp here in beautiful downtown Laramie Wyoming was -27 degrees f. this morning. So I gotta chime in. One of the first things you'll want is that little mirror chingadera Bill Ricca sells called a "bore reflector" Keep lots of q tips for the firing pin recess in your bolt and some pipe cleaners to swab out the hole the tip of your firing pin protrudes through. They're also handy for cleaning out the chase for your ejector plunger and spring. Brass bristle brushes make cleaning the face of your bolt quick and easy. I like to use LAW (lubricant, arctic weather) when the yodle dog's pelts are in their prime. Get the Jerry Kunhausen and Scott Duff books along with any GI manuals you can find. Nicholas and associates sells some fabulous reprints. Start buying spare parts like chrome firing pins, extractors, trigger group pins and a few spring kits. Be forwarned; the aquisition of too many spare parts will tempt the construction of another new rifle! Good luck, we'll be waiting for a range report. b
 
#43 ·
What not to do...

I hadn't noticed it in the other replies, but it doesn't make a good tooth pick or pry bar.

Don't take the smile off your face.
 
#45 ·
bobm1a said:
I have been putting some hoppe's #9 on a patch and then swabing out the gas piston area with it to clean the piston and piston cylinder.

Is this ok? What is the proper way to clean the gas piston and cylinder?

Thanks.
It's OK to clean the gas cylinder and piston with Breakfree, #9, or whatever, so long as you wipe it thoroughly dry afterward. You want the gas system dry as a bone before firing, else the heat and pressure will cause the chemicals to harden and gum up. So, it's imperative not to lube or leave cleaner in the gas system.

There are tools to clean out the inside of the gas piston, usually made of certain-size drill bits. Don't recall who sells them.
 
#47 ·
Spartacus2002 said:
It's OK to clean the gas cylinder and piston with Breakfree, #9, or whatever, so long as you wipe it thoroughly dry afterward. You want the gas system dry as a bone before firing, else the heat and pressure will cause the chemicals to harden and gum up. So, it's imperative not to lube or leave cleaner in the gas system.

There are tools to clean out the inside of the gas piston, usually made of certain-size drill bits. Don't recall who sells them.

I think there is some debate on not leaving a little #9 on the piston. I leave a little coating on the piston for corrosion resistance in storage etc., but I also leave it on when firing. This works OK for me. I recall seeing other members post that they do this also - but I think we are in the minority.

I also recall reading a post that adding a few drops of #9 to the gas cyl hole is a new Army SOP withregards to the M14. Maybe someone can repost??
 
#48 · (Edited by Moderator)
There's a DVD on cleaning and maintaining the M14 by a gunsmith named Art Lupino (Luppino?) in Arizona. He's very satisfied with #9 and doesn't recommend the "esoteric" cleaners. He suggests adding a drop of #9 onto the gas cylinder piston and then working it back and forth. The DVD was done in 1992 and I can't find any web reference to Mr. Lupino's current whereabouts unless he's the same as a notable ASU football player from the 50's. I was hoping the video would cover field stripping the rifle but it didn't get to that. GI9

Added: Art Luppino has an area on the forum see below:

http://www.m14tfl.com/upload/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=131
 
#49 ·
I have had excellent results cleaning and lubing my firearms with premium synthetic automotive oil and grease (Amsoil).
When I periodically clean the gas cylinder, I wipe it down with an oiled patch after thorough cleaning. This leaves a light film of oil on the cylinder, with no apparent ill effects.
 
#50 ·
What a lot of info I have to go through!

I, too, have just acquired the Scout.

No hijack intended, but more questions on an identical rifle.

I thought I'd learn to take it apart, properly clean and reassemble, and align the sights. It is about 4" low, and right, with the ammo I have.

3. According to the pros and advanced shooters here, one of the single most significant accuracy mods (aside from a new barrel) is shimming or unitizing the gas system.

Should I do accurizing procedures before I think of scoping the rifle?

A 30mm tube scope lets more light through. Significantly better?
It appears it is easier to mount [I read of 1" spacers required for 1" tubes, but have not figured it out yet].

When I do scope my Scout, I want to get the right scope base the first time. I thought the scope attached to the forward rail, but now am under the impression that front rail is for accessories. Yes?

I believe it is called a rail, it is just forward of the receiver assembly, and is bolted rock solid to the stock. So, the scope mount attaches to the receiver, not the stock?

Thanks, from another NG.
 
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