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January 6th, 2012, 09:04 AM
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#16 | | Squad Leader
Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Heartland, USA
Posts: 286
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I was thinking of building a layer around the outside of my safe using fire resistant materials. Any do that?
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April 3rd, 2012, 01:54 AM
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#17 | | Grunt
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: arizona
Posts: 95
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Originally Posted by Vos Parate  I was thinking of building a layer around the outside of my safe using fire resistant materials. Any do that? | i've recently picked up a 14 gun sentry safe from a friend for 200 bucks. i've also got one of those executive safes from harbor frieght that i git when you could get them for under 250 bucks.
both are nothing special, but i hope do prevent the smash and grab theifs from taking any guns.
now, with the exception that the sentry is almost 3 inches deeper, the height and witdh of both are the same.
i've figured out a place to put both, side by side and bolted together and be able to hide them from complete view.
what i think i will do for the fire protection is line each with 5/8th's gypsum. then, using some angle iron, build a frame that i can encase both, side by side, using more 5/8ths gypsum around them.
an finally, build a fake wall that can be opened like a door when i want to access them.
i wish i could afford a much higher end safe, but my true main goal is to keep them hidden and not so much fire, although that is important also.
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April 3rd, 2012, 02:28 AM
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#18 | | Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 14
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Great video about safes can be found here:
Talks about fire rating and thickness. Everyone should watch this before buying one.
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April 3rd, 2012, 05:34 AM
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#19 | | Automatic Rifleman
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: colorado
Posts: 127
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The average house fire burns at 1,200 degrees for 20 minutes to 1,700 degrees for 1 hour (see http://en.allexperts.com/q/Security-...home-safes.htm). The flash point of paper is 450 degrees.
If your only concern is fire, you can save a bundle and assemble a hot box out of fire retardant gypsum board, available at your local building supply company.
But, as CB's posted video above points out, if you are looking for overall security, there are more factors to consider... The composition of the materials. The number and orientation of cross bolts. External or internal hinges. Lock mechanism. Construction.
It's hard to go cheap with a safe that combines all the the best features of theft and fire prevention.
I've transferred / relocated 4 times with 2 of these 920# bastids... each time I've had to explain to the moving company how to get them on and off their trucks... 
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April 3rd, 2012, 06:25 AM
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#20 | | Designated Marksman
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: USofA
Posts: 565
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Originally Posted by mustanggt If there isn't a seperate rider(sp) on your homeowners policy, typically, it will only cover $2500 for firearms. I don't know about you but I passed that mark after a few buys which made me put them in a steel gun cabinet followed by a superior in additon a liberty as my collection has grown. I am in the process of shopping for firearms insurance myself so don't know all the ins and outs of that yet. I'm very fond of my shooting collection and want to be able to enjoy them for the rest of my life and be able to pass them on to future generations of my family so protecting them and keeping them safe is very important to me. I made the commitment to myself and my family to do that, so it was my personal decision and is just my example. |
I added a separate rider to my homeowners policy. It costs between $15 to $20 per year for each gun.
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April 3rd, 2012, 01:22 PM
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#21 | | Grunt
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: arizona
Posts: 95
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the more that i have been looking into insurance for guns, the more i see about a company called "collectible insurance". apparently, they specifically deal with collectibles only.
i've read good things about them, but have not yet seen anything about actual claims paid out.
eta to add link: www.collectinsure.com
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April 3rd, 2012, 01:51 PM
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#22 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: United States
Posts: 510
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Holy Graffunder!
I couldn't even imagine spending $11,000+ dollars on a safe!
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April 3rd, 2012, 04:02 PM
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#23 | | Fire Team Leader
Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Base of the Rockies
Posts: 196
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I can say from my work experience the most common (successful) way I saw to get into safes (the better ones, not the cheap imported ones) was cutting the sides open.
However even the cheaper made in the USA safes will hold up decently if they are placed where its more difficult to reach the safe, I.E. built in metal cabinets around it, even placing it against a hard wall makes it more difficult. And BOLT IT DOWN! Once it can be tipped I have seen even decent safes get pried.
Personally I couldn't afford the $4k safe I wanted, so I got a Liberty Fat Boy Jr, and added my own protection around and inside it. But unless you buy the $10k+ safes, all they are going to do is slow down the pro guys, The avg tweaker or kid looking for the quick payout they do pretty well against.
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April 3rd, 2012, 04:14 PM
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#24 | | Grunt
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: arizona
Posts: 95
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this is where i think with the cheaper safes, like my two, hiding them where access to them is limited meaning that prying open would be significantly difficult.
i'd be more upset about losing guns to theft than to fire.
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April 3rd, 2012, 04:19 PM
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#25 | | Lifer
Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tampa
Posts: 3,297
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Originally Posted by xwarp this is where i think with the cheaper safes, like my two, hiding them where access to them is limited meaning that prying open would be significantly difficult.
i'd be more upset about losing guns to theft than to fire. | That's how I feel too. I don't have any guns that are irreplaceable so I don't worry about the fireproofing.
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April 3rd, 2012, 04:30 PM
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#26 | | Grunt
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: arizona
Posts: 95
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i guess i should have clarified that i am more in the camp of "out of sight, out of mind" because from what i know based on what friends that are cops have told me, that most tweakers grab what they can run with and leave as fast as they can, where as, those that are determined for bigger cash payouts with time and help, will get into the thing regardless of weight and cost in most cases.
i know of a fellow where i work that "had" a huge, expensive safe. i don't know all the details other than that they had time, the appearance of being in the house for some kind of construction and neighbors that did not "notice anything unusual". they made off with his safe after tearing out a doorway and using some hydraulics to lift it off the floor.
i wish i knew more, but this theft makes me believe that he probably knows someone responsible for it.
which brings up another point, how much safer is your stuff when you don't advertise it?
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April 3rd, 2012, 05:33 PM
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#27 | | Automatic Rifleman
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: colorado
Posts: 127
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Originally Posted by xwarp which brings up another point, how much safer is your stuff when you don't advertise it? | I believe most of the break-ins are going to be tweekers, kids and random kmart shoppers looking for quick scores. They won't know what you have until they get inside. If it's out of sight or hard to get to, they'll take what they can carry and run.
If your neighbors don't see your play room, your kid's friends to have access to sensitive areas, your chances of a determined professional hitting you are nil.
I don't pretend my stuff can't be had by someone who makes up their mind to get it. My prevention is specifically aimed a fire loss and the random smash and grab.
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