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Sadlak Scope Mount Installation Pictures

62K views 62 replies 44 participants last post by  Walnut and Steel 
#1 ·
I've debated for quite some time concerning what brand of scope mount I wanted for my Springfield Armory M1a Loaded and finally decided on the Sadlak mount. Just about anyone can install this mount if you follow the instructions, but you know what they say...a picture is worth a thousand words. Hopefully this will help some of you with the installation or decision towards a future purchase of the Sadlak Mount.

1. Disassemble the rifle. The instructions only state to remove the reciever from the stock. I found it a lot easier to field strip the weapon. This gives you more room to work.

The next step requires you to use a 3/32 diameter punch to tap out the spring pin that holds the stripper clip guide. I suggest that you take it slowly and work the punch in and out as you tap the pin out. It's a tight fit and you don't want to get your punch stuck. It's also important that you maintain the same angle as you remove your punch. You don't want to break it off and cause yourself a headache. If it's too tight, use a smaller punch as suggested. If you look under the 250 mark stamped on the reciever you can see where to remove the pin.



Next remove the stripper clip guide. It is removed from Right to Left. I've left it partially removed to illustrate the direction to remove the guide.


Next, make sure that the threads on your rifle are ok. Manually thread the hex screw into your recieved threads to make sure everything is ok.


This next picture is of the reciever groove on the left side. The groove on top of the screw hole for the scope mount isn't important, it's the lower horizontal groove that you are concerned about. If all goes well, the scope mount will mate into this groove with no problems. SA owners, here is where you will hold your breath. If all goes well, the scope mount will mate solidly. If not, then you will have to use the supplied inspection kit.


Test fitting the scope mount.



Install the cam washer at the 9:00 position. Notice that the mount does not make contact with the the angled face. Note...Angled Face is the name of the area where you removed the stripper clip guide.



After inserting the cam washer, install the hex screw. Hand tighten the screw and tighten just a tad bit more with a wrench. The instructions call for box end wrench, however, I used a socket wrench just fine. The turning of the cam washer requires some finesse as well as using a non marring punch or similar object. Preferably plastic. I used metal and now have the addition of some sharpie blueing. Your goal is to have the mount make contact with the angled face. You can see the mount actually move into position when you move the cam.



This next picture is of the clip guide key. This part will slide into the area between the mount and angled face..where you stripper clip guide used to be.



Picture of the clip guide key partially inserted.



Tightening the clip guide screw 1/4 turn past hand tight.



Locking the key into the dovetail slot. This is accomplished by tightening the key set screws located on both sides of the mount. After this step, torque all screws as recommended.


Tightening the front post support. Sadlak suggests you only scew it down until contact is made with the top of the reciever and turn a max of 1/16 past the contact point. This is important since you can actually see the mount flex slightly if you overtighten.



Locking the front post support screw.



Installed mount, right side view.



Installed mount, left side view.



Mount with scope installed.
Scope: Leupold VXII 3x9 40mm.
Rings: Weaver Grand Slam. High. All steel construction.

As you can see, there is good clearance with these rings installed. No, these are not $100 "super tactical operator "rings, but for less than $15.00 they will work nicely.



Needless to say, I'm a happy camper. An added bonus that I've found is that the scope mount aids in maintaining a consistent ejection pattern. Prior to adding the scope mount, the ejection pattern was slightly erratic.

Good Luck and Good Shooting!
 
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#2 ·
This thread was seemingly never commented on, but I'd like to bump it and say thanks. I used it tonight while installing my Sadlak Airborne mount on my rifle.

Although it skips the "where/when to install threadlocker" parts, that can be found in the instructions included with the mount.
 
#17 ·
Can you mount a Trijicon 5-20x50 TR23 scope using this mount? Also, I am a newbie, who purchased an M1A in November and just got around to testing the rifle out. Can someone inform me of the range capabilities of this weapon?USN2
Where do you do your shooting? There are several of us here in Utah, we may be able to get together and help you get familiar with the rifle.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the kudos..

I have since sold this rifle...and kicked myself ever since. However, I did replace her with a new M1a loaded stainless and put her in a troy mcs. I can't say enough about the mcs. However, for a standard stocked rifle, it is hard to beat the Sadlak.
 
#21 ·
Great pics, Thank you Redleg. I've got a scout squad with an Eotech on the fore end factory rail. Has anyone used this Sadlak setup to mount their Eo 3.25 magnifier on a quick-detach mount? If so, what else should I keep in mind considering space between the red dot optic and the magnifier, or additional condiderations for eye relief with that magnifier? I looked at Larue Tactical and was surprised I didn't see anything like this; and the factory Springer mount has this giant gap in the center of it, in which I'm lacking confidence. I went to my local tac shop and they recommended going with a full frontal shroud which would mean full monty weight, and I'd of course rather keep it balanced back at the receiver if possible.
 
#24 ·
That all depends on the scope more than anything else. If you have a large objective bell (the front of the scope) then no, the bell will block your view. I think a 50mm objective lens will work but I know a 56mm lens is too big.
 
#27 ·
Hmmm... on my newest M14 I'm having to "shave down" the Airborne mount's stripper key guide so that it "slides" into the stripper guide mount. Anyone have suggestions on what hand tool is best suited to shaving off some "soft steel"?

I was thinking of using my Dremel tool...
 
#29 ·
That hand file suggestion worked like a charm Rammac. Thanks again.

I have one last question regarding my Sadlak Airborne mount installation... the space between the mount itself and the angled face (where the stripper guide was once installed)... how much space should exist between the mount and this angled face when the mount is installed?

Seems I am reading conflicting reports as some installers state their mount is flush with the angled face whereas others merely state "you should see a little daylight" between the two parts and then there's Sadlak instructions themselves kind of vague altogether (regarding this particular question anyways).
 
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