Put a Redfield M40 on my LRB DMR that Ted Brown built and mounted the SEI US property mount on. Put the scpe in low Leupy QRW rings.
Had to fold up a beach towel and tie that down with a GI leather cheek piece and a roll of friction tape (the old black sticky stuff we used on our baseball bats). Still couldn't get a decent cheek weld.
Took off the castrated flash suppressor (thanks Cuomo) and inserted my old Bushnell Bore Sighter that I have used with great success for many moons and I couldn't even find the Bore Sighter looking through the scope.
What will I have to do? Afraid to go to the range. I will be shooting over the berm.
Keep your eyes on the PX for a jury rigged M14 sniper. HA HA.
did you level the mount when you installed it? I just put mine back on after it went out for some work, I put it in my vice them sighted down the irons, which was pointed at hole in my neighbors fence, then adjusted the scope to the same point. Its not a perfect method but should hold paper at 50
You might be lucky and have the same physique as Ted, but that's unlikely so you'll have to adjust the scope to fit your neck/eye/head.
Obtaining a solid and consistent check weld will be the primary issue to solve. After that, you'll need to establish the correct eye relief for your scope and then you'll need to level the scope on your rifle.
I bought a 'TAC-PRO CR-M-14' for use with my M1A with its USGI fiberglass stock. Had to drill the two holes, but the cheek rest is very adjustable; variable height in front and rear can yield a very comfortable cheek weld.
Once the cheek weld is found, adjust the scope's eye relief by moving the scope to the front or rear as needed. I found that using the maximum scope magnification helps here. You want to get the maximum light transmission and clarity possible. You might have to adjust your cheek weld up or down slightly to achieve this.
Finally, because you've moved the scope in its rings, you'll need to re-level the scope to the rifle. Use a small level mounted on that flat immediately behind the rear sight and hang a piece of white cord or something similar with a weight on it to establish a vertical reference. First level your rifle with the level behind the rear sight and then rotate the scope in its rings until the vertical cross hair aligns with string you've hung.
This sounds more complicated than it actually is and will only take a few minutes to do. You may want to revisit you adjustments after a few trips to the range. One of the most common events is that your cheek weld when actually shooting doesn't match up with what you did at home.
how does the scope rings block the use of the iron sights, how much elevation do you have cranked into it? That mount is supposed to allow the use of the irons.
I would remove the scope rings, take the stock off, get the receiver in a vise, level, and check the mounts level. There is some adjustment with the front set screw, but you have to loosen the whole mount.
how does the scope rings block the use of the iron sights, how much elevation do you have cranked into it? That mount is supposed to allow the use of the irons.
I would remove the scope rings, take the stock off, get the receiver in a vise, level, and check the mounts level. There is some adjustment with the front set screw.
The mount does allow for the use of the irons and I have used the irons with great success but not with the current Leupy low rings.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
M14 Forum
2.5M posts
63.3K members
Since 2002
A forum community dedicated to M14 and M1A Rifle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, ammunition, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, Modern, Devine, SOCOM, EBR, classifieds, and more!