Ordering a Minox 1.5-8x X 32 pretty soon (rubs mittens!)
totally clueless as per scopes and even more so as far as bases/rings. It wont be shooting thousands of rounds, will be carried for hunting, so Im going for as light as possible but nothing too light to compromise an ethical kill shot.
Also- trying to get this sucker as close as low as possible. Any ideas folks?
Get the scope and the mount in. Find where the scope rings will go and build a stack of pennies/washers/etc. until you get the exact height you need. Measure the stack with calipers then find what company makes the rings closest to the height that you want.
Burris makes Signature rings for pic rails now. They're not too high $. They have hard plastic inserts that'll save you many headaches getting a scope zeroed and extending its effective range.
Those TSR rings Bluto likes look pretty good, too, but I haven't used them.
mtnchops, do you plan on taking it on an off in the field? If not, then I don't see the necessity of quick release rings. I prefer to use quality rings that I can torque to the base at around 65 inch/pounds. I can easily take the scope off while I'm on the range (if necessary), then can slap it back on and tighten back to the same torque setting. Every time I've ever done this the scope has been off by much less than 1MOA when it was rezeroed, usually about a .25MOA or none at all.
So it seems that my scope is 1". Those nightforce rings would have been perfect but Im not willing to put spacers in.
I think the leupold mark 4 aluminum rings are the ticket- light, picatinny and available in 1". Price tag is brutal though- anyone have any other ideas before I make the jump?
I just put a set of Burris Tactical aluminum low rings on my Arms #18 base. I am using a Vortex Viper with a larger bell than your scope has.
I did have to remove my rear sight to get it to work, but it sits as low as I think you can get. With the smaller scope your looking at, you may clear the rear sight. Hard to say without actually trying though. I am okay with not having the rear sight, because you can not use the iron sights anyway with the scope on with my set up.
I can remove the scope and since I ground a couple of teeth into my rear sight, I just run it it. If I have the elevation drum set on the 6 mark, it clicks down to just about where my 8 click up from bottom for 100 yard zero.
What you need to do on the rear sight is to cut very carefully with a Dremel and small files. I made more "teeth" just like the ones that are already there on the bottom part where the teeth stop and the flat part begins. I only had to make 2 new "teeth" for it to work.
Yes the extra width of the Burris rings may possibly present a problem for adjusting your proper eye relief depending on you scope design and turret design. I had no problem with mine luckily and still have plenty of extra room to work with. I was worried about that too.
Steel rings pretty much go against the whole philosophy of what Im putting together. counting oz to reduce weight but still having a capable semi auto(scout length barrel with optic). well capable out to hunting ranges(accurate enough) and light enough to reasonably carry. As most compromises it isnt gonna do either task incredibly well but for my purposes it should be pretty damn slick.
The EGW are what Im gonna end up with I think- its either that or spend 200 on the mark 4s.
Wanna hear more blasphemy? Im completely removing the rear sight because these things are too low.
I like the Seekins Precision WAAAAY better than either the Leupold Mk4's or the EGW's. They are in between the 2 in price, and are aluminum. Some of the best quality rings on the market, IMHO.
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