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Muzzle brake to decrease muzzle rise.

4K views 18 replies 16 participants last post by  1100 tac 
#1 ·
I shoot off a bipod mounted on my "Loaded" M1A and it shoots great but the muzzle rise with each shot requires me to take some time to settle back in and regain my sight picture. I was wondering if I should get the Smith Enterprise Muzzle brake to lessen the rise? I'm shooting the American Eagle 7.62X51 ammo made for M1A's with the 168gr bullet. I plan on switching out my factory stock for one of those Promag precision M1A stocks because I need a cheek piece so I make a better cheek weld for my scope plus I like all the adjustments. Should I change the stock first and see if I really need the Smith brake?

This is the Smith brake below.
 
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#4 ·
The compensator part (top holes) of the SEI brake are very effective in controlling muzzle rise. I prefer the NM version. It is longer and hides the flash better.

If you are using a bipod on wood or concrete, put a piece of carpet under it.
 
#9 ·
When I designed the Short Muzzle Brake for M14.CA, I started with experience at THREADING dozens of different types of muzzle devices on to shortened M14 barrels, cut, crowned, and threaded to AR 15 type 1/2" x 28 tpi threads. AND, shooting these various devices in fast, multiple shot type scenarios, to determine which gave the best COMPROMISE between controlling muzzle flip, recoil, flash, and blast.

Any muzzle device can only go so far towards eliminating these often mutually contradictory characteristics. The blend of these often opposing traits, is what gives a particular muzzle device a certain "feel". With the M14.CA short comp, I got the "feel" I liked, and a short barreled M14 fitted with this device , shooting full power 7.62 NATO ammo, "feels" similar to shooting an SKS firing 7.62x39 RUSSIAN ammo. The reduction in recoil and muzzle flip is significant, and the increase in blast and flash is also significant. NO FREE LUNCH IN PHYSICS ... there must be some trade offs.

THEORETICALLY, a shortened barrel cut between 18.5"and 20", will.have more RESIDUAL gas pressure at the muzzle than a 22" barrel, and I optimised the ports / gas flow for these shorter barrels. However, any muzzle device, short of tying an anvil on to the barrel, will have only limited success. We tested various port shapes and sizes for muzzle rise, resting the forend on a padded block, forend UNSUPPORTED and unemcumbered, with graph paper behind and a video camera to measure rise. Not overly complicated or sophisticated, but this got us in the ball park. The muzzle rise was reduced "significantly".

BUT,
EVEN GREATER REDUCTION IN MUZZLE FLIP was noticed by changing the stock to a more modern, ergonomically more efficient design, with the butt moved upwards to give a straight line thrust back directly from the bore, with no leverage "vector force" trying to rotate the rifle upwards. And adding a pistol grip, while not directly changing the thrust line, with a proper firm grip, could DIVERT some of the recoil forces into the grip hand, for improved CONTROL.

In my experiments, a properly designed stock, with pistol grip and straight line thrust, provides more recoil control improvement than any muzzle device ( short of an anvil).

There are some very good reasons why the AR 10 has less felt recoil and muzzle flip than a conventionally stocked M14. AND, if you are shooting rapidly, in other positions than off the bench or bipod, this reduction in recoil and muzzle flip, and improved control for fast follow up shots, is even more obvious.

PS: If you really want to get kinky, the M14.CA muzzle device is a two part design, so with the sight tower set to ERTICAL, the ports can be rotated slightly to offset the usual tendency for fast follow up shots from a right handed shooter to string "high AND RIGHT" . Tightens up.your double taps. But that is probably a bit more than any normal person ( except the HI SPEED/ LOW DRAG TYPES ) really needs.

PPS: EVEN BETTER, use 110 or 125 gr bullets, perhaps at lower velocities.

Combining all these tricks and tweaks can result in an M14 that is as fast to shoot as an AR 15, although it will still be pounds heavier. BUT, you can still shoot FULL POWER .308 WIN/7.62 NATO if required.
BTDT
which is why I think the M14 is possibly the most VERSATILE rifle ...
EVER!
 
#12 ·
Thanks to everybody for the info on the brake. I think I'll change the stock out first and then do the brake. I need the stock so the whole thing fits me better and I'll try to find some good 7.62X51 ammo that uses a lighter bullet like in 150gr range. The recoil on the 168gr American Eagle 7.62X51 is not bad at all but the muzzle rise is a pain. maybe I should try not using the bipod and go with a rest with some padding on it.
 
#17 ·
I can't speak to the results on longer barrels, but the SEI USCG muzzle brake did wonders on my SAI Scout with 18.5" barrel.

I shoot it scoped off the bench, and even with the factory Boyds walnut stock, there is less bounce and jump from the reduced muzzle flip, and less "perceived" recoil overall, due to the stubby SEI USCG brake. Post-shot adjustments on the rifle rest between rounds are less substantial and less annoying. A rubber pad on the buttstock in place of the metal stock base also helps to keep things in place during recoil.

My SEI USCG brake is the shorter version, and it is noticeably more effective than the stock SAI brake that came on that Scout from the factory. I also now have a longer "SEI national match" version of the SEI USCG brake which I just picked up, but I have not had a chance to try it yet on the Scout, for purposes of accuracy and muzzle-rise reduction effectiveness vs the shorter SEI USCG brake I have on there now....I can't wait to shoot the longer NM version out against the stubby variant, next weekend!
 
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