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Frog Lube and your m1a.

10K views 44 replies 35 participants last post by  Tophlor 
#1 ·
Just received my order of Frog Lube and applied it to my AR-15. I'm going to shoot it tomorrow and I've heard nothing but rave reviews on FL. Has anybody applied it to their m1a? There is a paste version and liquid, I wonder if the paste version can be used instead if grease.


The stuff smells great, like winter mint life savers candy. It's non toxic and you can eat it. Oh, it also made my hands soft.

What do you say m14tfl?
 
#3 ·
Applied FL to my m1a. The paste is sticking where it needs to. Smells great but I won't know how well it performs until I fire it. I coated all parts with it to help stop any potential rust. It also leaves a nice flat sheen on your rifle, kinda like a wax on your car but flat, not glossy.
 
#6 ·
You guys should try moly?? Once it works into the pores of the metal it stays there and there is no metal to metal contact thus no wear. It reduces friction, prevents galling, doesn't attract dirt, fights corrosion, stays were we put it and stays wet even during long term storage your gun is ready to rock n roll at anytime. Plus the gun will cycle faster and smoother too. Even put some moly on the trigger sear and a tad in the gas system so that won't wear too. The trigger will be smoother and have 50% less trigger pull right away and even less as it works into the pores of the metal. Moly can make any gun, even the cheaper guns feel like a more expensive gun when its lubed correctly with moly.

I like to disassemble the gun and take the slide or bolt carrier or bolt and apply moly to the receiver rails and the bolt and burnish the moly in first so it gets a head start in getting into the pores of the metal. A good test of the moly is to try the bolt in the receiver dry or with oil first then burnish the moly into the metal by hand then wipe off the excess moly and try it by hand again to see the difference between the dry and the oil and the moly. Trust me this is the stuff your looking for my guns never leave home with it. Bill
 
#33 ·
Being a machinist and being around machines on a daily basis, moly-lube is used extensively in production machining. I would think moly would have better viscosity/properties for cold as well as hotter weather and resistant to breaking down. Would love to hear more opinions along these lines.thanks.
 
#7 ·
Not to reopen an old dead topic but must say FL is one if not the best lubes I have ever seen used on any gun! This stuff is amazing, not only protecting your gun from rust but after the gun heats up it acts as a lube that comes out of the metal pores. I own quite a few guns and tho FL is not on all them yet every time I re clean a gun rest assured it will be getting this wonderful brilliant lube! The best part about it is once applied it is quite amazing how much easier it gets to clean your gun going forward!!!! One bottle of the stuff will last for quite awhile and work on may guns. http://froglube.com/
 
#10 ·
I've used froglube on my ARs' and my M&P9c and have had great results and one strange result.

On my favorite AR (M16A4 clone) my bolt carrier group is nickle boron coated. It seemed to not stick as well as on my phosphate coated BCGs'. It also seemed to basically become a minty smelling sludge on the nickle boron. In defense if the froglube, I was shooting wolf through it, maybe it was gunk from that, I don't know.

That being said, I do like froglube a lot. But when we are talking M1A, I'm sticking with grease for the moving parts and hoppes in the barrel.

Its great for an AR and handguns, but until I see someone else's sucess with it on an M1A/ M14 Its not going on mine.
 
#12 ·
For testing purposes I am going to use FL specifically on my new Scout and see what happens and report back with my findings. So for with about 60-70 rds through her no signs of wear!
 
#13 ·
I highly reccomend using grease on your m14. frog lube is great , but its no replacement for grease.

run a search this is a common topic, and there are some experts that have weighed in.
 
#26 ·
I know that if you use anything less than grease on an M1 Garand (say..you decide to just oil the op rod) You're going to have a busted M1 Garand..

I do what they did when they invented that beautiful rifle. I use axle grease. I also use it on my m1a. after all, I love that rifle too and I would not profane it..nor see it busted because I'm a dummy. Just sayin! GI1
 
#14 ·
I use FL on my 1911's and a few other handguns. I do love the stuff and it smells minty fresh.

As far as the paste goes I noticed after firing my 1911 the paste seems to breakdown a little bit turning into a soft almost runny paste. But still provides excellent protection on the moving parts. But I do strip and thoroughly clean my 1911 after each outing.

On a M1A it may work for a range session or two before having to be reapplied. It does not seem to hold up like grease. So for those of you who do break your rifle down often it may work just fine for your needs. I'd just keep a close eye on areas of contact for premature ware on the parts if you fire a few hundred rounds each outing and after multiple sessions.

Since my rifle is bedded I will only be breaking it down once a year for a thorough cleaning or if it needs it after getting dirty. I use Lubriplate 130-A which is tried and true and works great on all the areas I applied it to last Nov and are still greased very well. FL would not have held up anywhere near this.

Each lube has it's specialties, and as great as FL is, it is not a one hit wonder. If anyone does put their M1A through a FL torture test please give us your findings.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Each lube has it's specialties, and as great as FL is, it is not a one hit wonder. If anyone does put their M1A through a FL torture test please give us your findings.
This is exactly what I plan to do. This is not to prove any one right or wrong but to see what FL is made of! Being a Mechanic for the past 20 years I know plenty about Lubrplate and how great the stuff is, but I also feel that maybe their is some better stuff out their that can in fact be a true do everything lube. I will take pics of every tear down an will keep track of rds shot through my new rifle. IMHO if this stuff is good enough to work on full auto military weapons of various types it will plenty good for my semi auto rifle....or so I hope ;)



~There are only two types of people in this world, those that know and those that wish they did ~
 
#17 ·
It only matters if you plan on eating your rifle LOL In all honesty the smell of FL is much better than any oil based solvent outvtheir and I paticuraly like it.

~There are only two types of people in this world, those that know and those that wish they did ~
 
#20 ·
Frog Lube greatly reminds me of Tracklube, a non-toxic biodegradable lube I put on sliding glass door/window rails to keep them from squeaking.

Personally I've used all sorts of oils and greases for both my AR and M1A and really most anything will work as long as you keep the rifle clean which is the key thing. Greases are probably easier to live with in both rifles although you have to be careful about how you apply that grease in an AR or it will gum up.
 
#21 ·
I came very close to getting frog lube for all of my weapons, and then I found out that it gums up and eventually solidifies in cold weather, making the weapon inoperable. even if I lives somewhere that it never gets cold, that wouldn't be acceptable to me, and especially not since i live in Pennsylvania and Michigan now. The winters can be pretty cold here. So I'm sticking with high temp wheel bearing grease for my M1 and M1A, and CLP for my AR15s.
 
#22 ·
I would love to see proof of that, never have had a problem in 3 years and that is with hunting in very cold weather here in Co!

~There are only two types of people in this world, those that know and those that wish they did ~
 
#23 ·
I use Froglube on my M1a and Glock and M1Carbine. No issues so far, solidyfing and making any weapon inoperable in cold is totally BS. I've carried and used/fired mine in 0 degrees celcius for a whole day without issues.
I use the paste as grease and the liquid as oil, I'd say I have around 3000 rounds through my M1a so far, no issues with solidifying or other mess. I do not clean my rifle religiously so it has been run hard and put away wet.

I really like the fact that it is all natural and not toxic.

Here's the FAQ:
http://froglube.com/froglube-product-info/froglube-questions-answers/
 
#27 ·
From the FAQ:

Are there any measurable benefits?

FrogLube’s use in treating gun barrels has recorded muzzle velocity increases of between 3-12%. This has been independently verified. It has also shown drastic reductions in shot group standard deviations in 5-shot groups.


If the above is true, every barrel maker, commercial ammo loader, and builder would use it.
 
#25 ·
You have to use it correctly. Put it on a heated part. I use a hair dryer to warm lup the parts and brush it on with a shaving brush. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so and wipe it off. That's it. It will soak into the metal pores and then come out when it heats up. You can just glob it on a cold surface, but when it heats up, it will run like gasoline. It was developed to be used in a maritime environment, and work it does. Like Brylcream. A littl dab will do ya.
 
#29 ·
I have used it for two years on all my weapons. No wear issues. It stays in the areas that should be greased like the Garand OP Rod under the barrel. I did leave too much in my M14 this winter and it solidified enough at 5 degrees fahrenheit to keep the M14 bolt out of battery. My fault for not following instructions for a winter application. However overuse of grease in winter is a known don't do with M1 style actions.
 
#30 ·
My experiences with froglube....

My first firearm was a Springfield xdm. I cleaned and applied froglube per the company's instructions. After each range trip I'd clean and wipe the gun down, and reapply when necessary. Honestly I did love the stuff, it smelled great and worked very well as a CLP. However about 4 months ago I took the gun out of the safe to go to the range and noticed the handgun smelled like old oil from a fryer. This was surprising to me so I cleaned and reapplied the froglube. This is where it got me a little worried. While cleaning with the froglube I noticed my patches and rags were fouled with black carbon. I went to the range anyway and the firearm shot normally. I went home and recleaned as I always do after a range trip. A week later and I noticed the same smell, I checked the safe and it smelled fine so I had to assume it was the froglube. I cleaned the handgun again with the froglube and noticed the same dirty patches and rags. At this point I was a little irritated... Anyone who knows me knows I have ocd and am very particular about cleaning everything.

Since then I've stripped the froglube off and bought ballistol and lubriplate... No issues so far.
 
#31 ·
Frog Lube is really good stuff when you first put it on. Makes the gun feel better.
However, If you can't clean and reapply on a fairly regular schedule it will turn into the nastiest gun glue you have ever seen.
I tried to run it on a competition AR and if you don't clean the BCG after a couple of 88 round matches it may not run for the 3rd match.
Plain old motor oil is WAY better.
 
#32 ·
Ballistol and synthetic wheel bearing grease for actual lube points on my M1A & Garand. FL on the outside for corrosion protection. It is outstanding for corrosion but I am thoroughly unimpressed with the lubrication and cleaning properties aren't any better than anything else really.

It's probably just fine for what it was designed for, AR15/M16/M4 that is getting regular cleaning and lube on a regular basis. But after it sets awhile I can attest to the fry oil smell and it tried to glue my 3gun shotgun's action together. If I were deployed in the sandbox I'd use it happily, but it's no miracle lube.
 
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