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M1A bolt stuck back - Help!!

This is a discussion on M1A bolt stuck back - Help!! within the Modern M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Shot about 350 rounds today out of my new M1A Scout. This was only the second time shooting the gun. During one magazine, the bolt ...


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Old January 4th, 2010, 04:16 PM   #1
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M1A bolt stuck back - Help!!

Shot about 350 rounds today out of my new M1A Scout. This was only the second time shooting the gun.

During one magazine, the bolt stuck back hard and wouldn't come forward. Played with it a bit and got it to go forward.

It fired fine for about 20 rounds or so, then jammed back again. This time, it won't go forward at all.

It is back so far that it is behind the action release lever.

Any ideas?

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Old January 4th, 2010, 04:31 PM   #2
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Start by removing the trigger group - hopefully that will be enough to release whatever is binding.
If trouble continues, remove the receiver from the stock and use some spray-on lube such as WD-40, or whatever, around the bolt, oprod 'hump', oprod track, gas cylinder, oprod guide, etc.

My 'guess' is that with 300+ rounds fired in a single session the grease lubrication was gone, and bare-metal-to-metal binding has happened.
This probably has not damaged any parts, but I suggest doing a basic clean & re-lube after 100 shots.

Jay Kosta
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Old January 4th, 2010, 04:53 PM   #3
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Advice

I removed the trigger group and stock at the range. Didn't help. I'll try your idea of lubing it up with WD-40 to see if it frees up.

Weird thing is it is all the way back and making contact with the back of the receiver if you look at it from underneath.

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Old January 4th, 2010, 04:57 PM   #4
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Is your op-rod binding? Is the op-rod tab bound up in the tab track or the dismount notch? Were you shooting ammo of 180 grain or heavier?

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Old January 4th, 2010, 05:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by tonyben View Post
Is your op-rod binding? Is the op-rod tab bound up in the tab track or the dismount notch? Were you shooting ammo of 180 grain or heavier?
It could be. You're talking to a new guy here. I'm not sure what the op rod tab, tab track or dismount notch are. Can you explain? I can't find them in the exploded parts diagram in my manual.

I was shooting 150 grain ammo only.

The rod that comes out of the gas cylinder just floats there. The spring is all but hidden as the action is all the way back.

I can move the action and op rod maybe 1/2" or so back and forth, but the bolt is about 1/2" to the rear of the action release.

If you flip the action upside down, the rear of the bolt is making contact with the rear of the receiver. It appears to be just frozen in place.

I've lubed everything up with plenty of WD-40 and so far, nothing is moving.

Any ideas?

Regards,

John

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Old January 4th, 2010, 06:21 PM   #6
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The op-rod tab is just underneith where your fingers go when you charge the weapon. The tab goes in a little notch. Is it past that or is it in there. If you ever want to remove the op-rod you will have to line it up. Be very careful becuase in the current state it is in the spring is charged and could really hurt you are not careful removing it.

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Old January 4th, 2010, 06:33 PM   #7
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I am 'no expert' :-), but if you look down the rifle as if you are shooting it the on the right is the operating rod/charging handle which has a tab that rides in the groove milled in the receiver. The bolt lug indexes in a cutout in operating rod and when cycled rotates up and rides on top of the receiver above the milled slot. So is your bolt lug locked in the op rod in the cutout in the op rod and your op rod tab is in the groove in the receiver? If so then your bolt has just over travelled and is jammed back. You can try using a piece of wood (i use a piece of ax handle) and tapping on the oprod charging handle see if you can drive the bolt out of it's lock up. As mentioned above the oprod is removed by lining up the tab with the relief cut in at the rear end of the receiver milled slot. Good luck!!

BTW WD (water displacing) 40 (forumla 40) is not a lube, but is used to displace water, a good thing, but not for lubrication purposes. Did you have the rifle properly greased? There is a good sticky here on lube points.

What ammo were you using? Just because it is 150 grains does not mean the it is good to go for the M14/M1A system.


Last edited by mercman; January 4th, 2010 at 06:36 PM. Reason: stuff
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Old January 4th, 2010, 06:34 PM   #8
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Sounds like it's time to bring out the hard rubber mallet.

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Old January 4th, 2010, 06:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chomp View Post
The op-rod tab is just underneith where your fingers go when you charge the weapon. The tab goes in a little notch. Is it past that or is it in there. If you ever want to remove the op-rod you will have to line it up. Be very careful becuase in the current state it is in the spring is charged and could really hurt you are not careful removing it.
I'm still not sure where those parts are.

Here's some pics of its current condition.

Do these help?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20100104_0474.jpg (36.5 KB, 368 views)
File Type: jpg 20100104_0480.jpg (28.5 KB, 353 views)
File Type: jpg 20100104_0482.jpg (35.3 KB, 380 views)

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Old January 4th, 2010, 06:48 PM   #10
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If that's a flat spring guide, won't it come out by pushing over the rod pin? Taking care of course not to take a spring in the face.

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Old January 4th, 2010, 07:00 PM   #11
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Bolt

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercman View Post
So is your bolt lug locked in the op rod in the cutout in the op rod and your op rod tab is in the groove in the receiver? If so then your bolt has just over travelled and is jammed back. You can try using a piece of wood (i use a piece of ax handle) and tapping on the oprod charging handle see if you can drive the bolt out of it's lock up.
Yup, that was it. The bolt over travelled and was jammed back. Re-assembled the rifle, took it to the garage and a tap with a piece of wood on the op rod freed it up and it slammed shut. THANKS for the excellent diagnosis!!!!!!

I used WD-40 as someone mentioned that I had probably fired too many rounds through it today without stopping to clean and lube it.

I cleaned it well when I got it home, but probably not good enough. I greased the op rod and receiver area with Tetra grease yesterday, then wiped it off per the instructions.

Today, I shot 200 rounds of Wolf (yeah, I know) and it ate it up with zero problems. Then, I switched to Winchester 7.62 NATO stuff I got from an ammo dealer at a gun show. It ate about 150 of these before the two instances of the bolt overtravelling.

Can anyone point me to a good cleaning and lubing thread?

Thanks again!!!!!!

Regards,

John

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Old January 4th, 2010, 07:01 PM   #12
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Could you get us some pics of the bolt face? Maybe the extractor somehow popped up and out and is jamming up the action. Get some pics of the operating rod right side up too...

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Old January 4th, 2010, 07:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHarden View Post
Can anyone point me to a good cleaning and lubing thread?

Thanks again!!!!!!

Regards,

John
Why, yes....
http://m14tfl.com/upload/forumdisplay.php?f=65

Also, click the link in my signature line...

Thanks from SGT John SWF
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Old January 5th, 2010, 07:23 AM   #14
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Good to see everything came out ok. Wolf is about the last ammo I would use. Wolf has a finish on them. It works great for Ak-47 and SKS type weapons. No good in Ar-15 and M1A. It makes the whole bolt area gunked up and sticky. One thing about the M1A is most of the gases are expelled in the gas piston area. You may want to give it a tilt test to make sure it is not gunked up in there as well. Keep this gun greased up. It is a battle rifle. You can fired a thousand rounds in one day. Everything should work great as long as you keep it greased up. I would also get this weapon to a gunsmith just to make sure it is functioning properly. Good luck..

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Old January 5th, 2010, 09:12 AM   #15
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Welcome to the Forum!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chomp View Post
...I would also get this weapon to a gunsmith just to make sure it is functioning properly. Good luck..
I'd agree with that with the caveat that the gunsmith should be very familiar with the M14/M1A platform.

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