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Keyholing while suppressed

This is a discussion on Keyholing while suppressed within the Modern M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Originally Posted by Snyper762 Thanks for that link. I'm ordering one too. Not every baffle strike is detrimental to the suppressor. I bet it's knicking ...


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Old October 15th, 2016, 06:06 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Snyper762 View Post
Thanks for that link. I'm ordering one too. Not every baffle strike is detrimental to the suppressor. I bet it's knicking the edge as its clearing the can by less than a hair.
What he said. Sometimes all you can see is a slight trace on exit hole of the can.

Are the rounds subsonic? Or normal rounds?

Subsonic rounds can be prone to keyholing and require extra tinkering.

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Old October 15th, 2016, 09:35 PM   #32
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Not subsonic

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Old October 16th, 2016, 06:40 AM   #33
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I am also thinking about switching to the Specwar break instead of the trifecta flash hider. I think the break will be easier to determine alignment.

I also used the Specwar 7.62 with the prong mount on mine and although POI changed, my alignment was just fine. I think I got my adapt from Midway or something meaning it wasn't the Delta P. I believe your on the right track chasing the castle nut issue first just don't over torque to the point you're break pliers anymore. Snug and to closest notch should be just fine.

.....Don't for get your full face gas mask for all that blowback!

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Old October 19th, 2016, 12:36 PM   #34
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Thanks from hardheaded
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Old October 19th, 2016, 12:39 PM   #35
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FINALLY!

Ignore the center garbage where I was zeroing it... obviously tightening down the castle nut was the culprit to the keyholing. Also changing to the muzzle break allowed me to use the alignment guage.

This thing is shooting lights out with 168 grn gold medal match.

The shots above were at 100 yards.

Thanks from tonyben, conditionone and Rich D
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Old October 19th, 2016, 04:48 PM   #36
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That is great! I'm really wanting to suppress one of mone too.

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Old November 19th, 2016, 04:36 PM   #37
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That was a close one, glad you figured it out without taking out the can.

How is the blow back?

Are you going to run an adjustable gas plug?

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Old November 19th, 2016, 07:15 PM   #38
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I am runnng an adjustable gas plug.

Blowback isn't too bad..

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Old January 3rd, 2017, 09:47 PM   #39
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Not all barrels are bored concentric to the outside. Ruger used to have a lot of barrels that were not concentric. If you have a high quality can and have issues that is the first thing I would look at. When turned in a lathe and gauged it's very easy to tell. Also be careful with subsonic ammo, many barrels are 1-12 twist and that won't stabilize heavy, slow projectiles, they will be keyholing at 25 yard without a suppressor. I shoot 168g Federal gm suppressed out of my 18 inch Criterion barrel/FA receiver and YHM titanium Phantom suppressor with no change in point of impact. Just a lot of blowback from the breach.

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Old January 5th, 2017, 05:40 AM   #40
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Suppressors

I am new to suppressors for the M1A, I have suppressors already but have been told not to try it with my M1A's and told I can. I would love some information on what is actually need to make this work for me since they are legal to hunt with here.

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Old January 5th, 2017, 09:23 AM   #41
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I am new to suppressors for the M1A, I have suppressors already but have been told not to try it with my M1A's and told I can. I would love some information on what is actually need to make this work for me since they are legal to hunt with here.
I'd like some of the same advice...I've got a YHM Phantom .308 can I shoot in my SBR 300Blackout and had some ideas of perhaps shooting the M1A suppressed. Though my can is a thread on vs the QD varieties.

 
Old January 6th, 2017, 05:31 AM   #42
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adapters

I've seen adapters by YHM but would prefer a QD for the M1A, I have a few for different sports/useful purposes be nice to just QD from one rifle to another.

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Old January 7th, 2017, 04:16 PM   #43
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I have it pretty dialed in now. My advice is to go with the adapter that screws directly onto the barrel threads instead of the kind that slides on to the splines.

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