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Extractor, extractor spring

This is a discussion on Extractor, extractor spring within the Modern M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; I have a Scout (since 2010), and haven't had any problems at all until now. I experienced a slamfire a few days ago (i was ...


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Old February 14th, 2015, 05:25 PM   #1
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Extractor, extractor spring

I have a Scout (since 2010), and haven't had any problems at all until now. I experienced a slamfire a few days ago (i was very lucky, thankfully), and frankly it scared the hell out of me. Afterwards, I was unable to get the gun to fire. Began taking it apart this morning and discovered the firing pin floating around in the receiver and then realized the extractor was missing (found the pin!). Looking at a parts list/schematic, it appears there is a spring that goes with this pin. First, is this commonly what breaks during a slamfire? If not, what is? Secondly, does this pin hold in the extractor AND the firing pin? Thirdly, what/where is the best bet for a replacement? Thanks.

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Old February 14th, 2015, 05:47 PM   #2
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The extractor is actually what retains the firing pin. Than "pin" you found is the plunger/detent, that under spring pressure, retains the extractor.

A better question is what helped cause the slamfire? Not unheard of..... but often there was a mistake made that exacerbates the problem. Now you know though... muzzle in a safe direction when you let the bolt fly. ALWAYS.

OH... and I think I got my spare USGI extractor, spring, and plunger from Treeline. I like having spare parts.. especially for stuff that will eventually wear/break.

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Old February 14th, 2015, 05:58 PM   #3
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Please explain all the events surrounding the "slamfire." Was it during loading or firing?

Your extractor gave out. It holds the firing pin inside the bolt. It is held in place by the ejector and ejector spring.

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Old February 14th, 2015, 06:07 PM   #4
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Oops... yeah Kurt got it right. Ejector retains the extractor. The plunger and spring under the extractor just puts pressure on the extractor.

So theres another question... double check what parts you do or don't have to make sure its all there. Should be the extractor, its spring and plunger/detent, and the ejector and its spring... and you obviously have the firing pin.

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Old February 14th, 2015, 06:11 PM   #5
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To many variables at this time.

The slam fire event needs more information.

A problem with extractors, the pivot pin of the extractor can stick below the bolt surface, the pin can be pushed up by interference with the receiver, if the pin sticks below the bolt the whole extractor can be ejected out of the bolt. The whole bolt assembly comes apart, firing pin, ejector, ejector spring, extractor, extractor spring and pin all come out of the bolt when the extractor releases them.

It is possible, just maybe, the extractor had popped out, the rifle cycled and the parts that came loose caused the "slam fire".

Just a swag on my part.

When you replace the extractor and related parts, assemble the bolt and check if the extractor pivot is sticking out beyond the bolt surface, if it is take the extractor out and grind, polish, sand, file or whatever metal removal you can preform to shorten the pivot pin so it is below the bolt surface.

This is a easy check and fix, some have found this condition exist with their part combination.

Jim

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Old February 15th, 2015, 08:28 AM   #6
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The round 'stud' on the extractor is what holds the firing pin and the ejector in the bolt body. The bolt body should have a small spring with a round tip to bed in the dimple in the extractor.

To install the extractor you need to have the FP and the ejector in the bolt. And the tricky part is that the ejector has to be pushed into position in order for the extractor stud to fully seat. One slip and the ejector jumps out of the bolt, never to be seen again.

Some people recommend using an empty 30-06 case in 308W chamber has a tool to push the ejector into the bolt and still have clearance to install the extractor.
If you attempt it 'free-hand', at least wrap a rag around the bolt so it the ejector does jump out it won't be lost.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

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Old February 15th, 2015, 08:52 AM   #7
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Thanks for the replies - that does provide some clarification. The slamfire occurred trying to chamber an improperly re-sized round. I had just been reading an article by Glen Zediker about these very things. I placed the round in the chamber and then released the bolt using the bolt stop switch on the left side (exactly what I had been cautioned against). Lesson learned with no injury. I was on my range and the rifle was pointed down in front of me. A good practice when loading would be roll the rifle on its side while releasing the bolt from midway forward.

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Old February 15th, 2015, 09:40 AM   #8
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Always let the cartridge feed from the magazine, even if you are shooting just 1 round. It is even done this way in competition.

Thanks from Jackinape
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Old February 19th, 2015, 10:02 PM   #9
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Got new parts from Treeline. Hope to re-assemble in coming days. Thanks for helpful ideas/suggestions. Having trouble getting my op rod to release - assuming this shouldn't take a great deal of force? One manual says rotate out and down, while one says pull straight out?

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Old February 20th, 2015, 06:09 AM   #10
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Check out, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonyben3/videos
all your questions will be answered.

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Old February 20th, 2015, 06:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigrsBetter View Post
Got new parts from Treeline. Hope to re-assemble in coming days. Thanks for helpful ideas/suggestions. Having trouble getting my op rod to release - assuming this shouldn't take a great deal of force? One manual says rotate out and down, while one says pull straight out?
With the oprod tab aligned with the notch in the receiver, you lift the oprod up toward the windage knob, then swing it out away from the receiver.

The problem is that the "notch" in the receiver is milled as a seperate operation and often is not flush with the rest of the groove. You may have to overcome a slightly raised ledge in order for the tab to slide up into the notch.

1. You can gently twist the oprod handle outwards and tap it into the notch with a mallet.

2. You can stone the ledge leading into the notch, giving the tab a smoother entry.

Thanks from XXXMarine
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Old February 20th, 2015, 07:27 AM   #12
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You may have to fool with a bit to get it out of the track, but if you aren't experienced with stoning something, go SLOWLY.

I personally would rather fight it for a couple of minutes than attack the receiver.

Removing the op rod is like fishing, you just gotta hold your mouth right, and once you get the knack for it it's easy.

Thanks from Ric Flair
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Old February 21st, 2015, 08:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girth View Post
The extractor is actually what retains the firing pin. Than "pin" you found is the plunger/detent, that under spring pressure, retains the extractor.

A better question is what helped cause the slamfire? Not unheard of..... but often there was a mistake made that exacerbates the problem. Now you know though... muzzle in a safe direction when you let the bolt fly. ALWAYS.

OH... and I think I got my spare USGI extractor, spring, and plunger from Treeline. I like having spare parts.. especially for stuff that will eventually wear/break.
Well, now it all makes sense that I've figured out how it goes together. Also, thanks for the Treeline tip. Never got the op rod loose, but managed to get the pieces together using M10 tool (which does a lot more than I knew). Took a couple of tries to get the Extractor in place with the firing pin and ejector detent both in. Test fired ten rounds today with no issues. Again, thanks for the advice.

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Old April 20th, 2017, 12:33 PM   #14
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Extractor Pullout

After shooting 10-15 rounds in my M1A, the extractor is suddenly pulled out of the bolt. It lands on the table along with the extractor spring. The long ejector spring stays in the bolt. I bought a new extractor spring, reinstalled extractor and spring, went to the range and it popped out again after about 15 rounds. I am very careful to fully resize the brass, trim to specifications, and reload the round with 4895 and a 168 HPBT match bullet. This scenario has occurred about 4 times now.
I installed a Springfield rail mount and scope per instructions. I don't see where the extracted case is hitting the rail mount or anything else. HOW is the extracted case pulling out the extractor, or is something else doing it??
Has anyone had this experience or knows what conditions might be investigated that would cause this to happen repeatedly??

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Old April 20th, 2017, 12:56 PM   #15
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there's supposed to be a detent on the extractor that the extractor pin sits in to keep it from popping out.also check and make sure the extractor pin does not stick out below the bolt body when inserted
might use a small dremill to deepen the dimple

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