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Home made lightweight adjustable stock

20K views 30 replies 26 participants last post by  ManuRyujin  
#1 ·
A friend of mine did a modification of his SOCOM's stock and I thought that it might interest some of you.

His objective was to add an adjustable butt piece and a hand grip. He used an old fiberglass stock as the base and an ATI pistol grip stock. I've shot the rifle and it really is well made. There is no unusual movement or feel, it's quick to point and lightweight.

Here is his how-to description with pictures.


Here's some pics of that stock build. It was pretty easy, and has proven to be durable - and inexpensive to build.
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This is just checking the angle of the "interface" - I spent a decent amount of time looking for a stock that I thought would work, and the ATI shotgun stock seemed perfect:

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If I was to do this again, I'd make the cut about 1/4"-3/8" further down the grip toward the buttstock to give a little more range to the grip....

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Another reason to make the cut further down is that there is a steel pin running through the neck - and I happened to cut it in half - which made my blade unhappy.

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You can see the pin, and the filler of urethane foam that makes up the core of the stock....

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Using an electric handpiece (dremel-like tool) I ground out the cavity and cleaned up the edges. You want to create a negative draft on the sides so that the filler is mechanically as well as chemically anchored, and also knock down any sharp edges to eliminate the possibility of creating stress risers.

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The ATI stock snugged right up...

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This is a test fit of the pistol grip - the area above the grip had to be knocked back a little to allow the trigger guard to swing open - but just a bit - and cutting further back would have fixed this....

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I drilled a hole through the bulkhead of the back plane of the stock to hold a bolt that would hold the stock tight while the Magic-Sculpt cured.

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Naphtha mixed with Vaseline makes a great parting compound - this was painted liberally all over the cavity inside the mating surface of the ATI stock AND THE BOLT to keep the Magic-Sculpt resin from sticking during the cure

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Magic Scuplt is a two-part epoxy clay resin. It cures extremely hard and tough. I mixed in some chopped fiberglass to add to it's strength, but I don't know if that's necessary (it is very durable material). You could use a mixture of chopped glass and fiberglass resin as well, it would just be a little messier to deal with - I used what I had.

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The cavity inside the stock and the cavity inside the new buttstock was filled with the epoxy sculpt mixture, and a bolt with a nut was tightened to hold it all together for the cure. Excess material is removed while in the clay-like state - since later it would be a LOT harder to get off.

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Actually, I didn't have the right nut for the bolt - so I used a wood insert here - but it's just to hold it all together during the cure....

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Once cured, you can see the fidelity of the impression - the Epoxy Sculpt made a perfect "key" to the buttstock's mating face - including serial number ;)

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I filled the selector notch....

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I fabricated a slightly wedge-shaped aluminum plate to sit against the bulkhead at the back of the stock - to reinforce the mounting point.

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Plate mounted and drilled...

At this point it was a matter of sanding, filling, painting. The original paint was a lot more flat - and it was a bit too "dusty" so I painted it again (Duracoat). I'd like to have a bit more flat paint on it, but that'll have to wait - and at least it's really easy to give it a paintjob...

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Lightweight, collapsible, convertible, comfortable - what's not to like?
 
#7 ·
No cheek rest needed. I shot it just fine the way it was. I agree with his comment about making the cut a little longer but other than that it shouldered and aimed as well as any professional stock that I've ever tried. And he told me that it only cost about $100 for the supplies and parts.
 
#9 ·
you know there might be a fair penny in buying the VLTOR sage rear ends or actual sage rear ends and making them into stocks and selling them.

they are both the same angle as the rem 870 shotgun.
 
#14 ·
.... If I was to do this again, I'd make the cut about 1/4"-3/8" further down the grip toward the buttstock to give a little more range to the grip.... Lightweight, collapsible, convertible, comfortable - what's not to like?
That's exactly what i found when doing the Homemade Mako Modstock.
Would have made it a tad longer down the grip. Excellent work by the way.
BIGTHUMPUP
 
#18 ·
In some places, the stock is even more evil because the ATI stock doesn't fold, you simply remove it by removing a pin. So it's not folded, it's just had the butt piece removed.
 
#21 ·
Here’s how I did the AFG2:

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this started life as a USGI ‘glass stock, but I did the same to my original SOCOM 16 stock

a section of pic / 1913 rail, 6”, but you can make do with less.

Line up the rail on your stock so it’s close to in line with the bore. I’ve tried twice now and both times the holes I drilled were off so I elongated the holes to give some adjustability, straightened out & went to the dremel.

The screws were just a hair too short so I took a dremel grinding drum to the inside of the stock. The rail securing tabs are oblong (?) Circular on the ends. so the grinding drum is the perfect diameter to grind a slot out by holding the dremel perpendicular to the stock and applying light pressure. Just enough to create a recess, then move the dremel back, lengthwise for the slot. Don’t put too much pressure on the dremel, you only want to take a little material off. Once you have recesses & holes for all of the rail section, get the screws started for all the holes. Make sure it’s straight. If not, adjust the front or rear hole, clean up any internal screw holes as needed. Start the screws again. If straight, tighten them down 1 turn at a time, one screw at a time. Make sure you have room to put the AFG on before finally tightening, in case you’re a little close to the contour of the stock.

I don’t have loctite on any of these fasteners, even the AFG and they’ve been thousands of rounds.

HTH

Dave
 
#22 ·
Holy Old Thread Resurrection BATMAN!

Coming from the world where nobody made what I wanted for my motorcycle - so I had to design/make it MYSELF - GOOD WORK THERE BROTHERS.

I currently have a CNC shop I work with, mapping out the "generic" M4-Tube-Type folder stock adapter.

When that's done, we map the Sage ALCS butt-piece, than "graft" the folder into the butt-piece and cut a prototype on the CNC machine.

Kinda doing a "teaser" here - it's not a "hot project" on my priority list - but if I get it working I might do a small run of them...

Again - necessity is the mother of all invention...

Rick
 
#23 ·
Hmmmm

Do this using the Knoxx recoil reduction stock...and you'd probably end up with a very good brush/pig gun. Between the stock and a SEI muzzle brake you probably wouldn't even lose your target.

Kinda want to try this.
 
#24 ·
Hmmmm

Do this using the Knoxx recoil reduction stock...and you'd probably end up with a very good brush/pig gun. Between the stock and a SEI muzzle brake you probably wouldn't even lose your target.

Kinda want to try this.
That has been my idea for about the last year too. Use the Knoxx for this mod.