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Out of box accuracy of M1a Scout

This is a discussion on Out of box accuracy of M1a Scout within the Modern M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Hey All - I'm thinking of getting a Springfield Armory M1a Scout rifle. I was wondering what kind of accuracy I could expect from an ...


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Old February 12th, 2012, 07:32 AM   #1
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Out of box accuracy of M1a Scout

Hey All - I'm thinking of getting a Springfield Armory M1a Scout rifle. I was wondering what kind of accuracy I could expect from an M1a Scout out-of box. I've read a variety of reviews online from 1.5-2 inch groups at 100 yards to 4 to 6 inch groups at 100 yards.

I read an interesting article over at Chuck Hawk's website about how some had a new m1a Scout that shot about 4.5" groups out of box using federal match ammo. he was able to cut that down to less than 2" with some minor modifications (lapping the barrel, trigger job, etc.).

I'm not looking for a super accurate gun, but I was wondering if 2 to 3 MOA be a realistic expectation out-of-box or would I be looking at more of a 5-6MOA gun? Would I have to get a trigger job and lap the barrel to achieve sub 3MOA accuracy?

I would use the gun at the range (100 to 600 yards), and also possibly for deer hunting. I don't need a tack driver, but would like something that would be reasonably accurate (2 to 3 MOA) using handloads.

Thanks in advance.

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Old February 12th, 2012, 08:01 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by cynergyou View Post
Hey All - I'm thinking of getting a Springfield Armory M1a Scout rifle. I was wondering what kind of accuracy I could expect from an M1a Scout out-of box. I've read a variety of reviews online from 1.5-2 inch groups at 100 yards to 4 to 6 inch groups at 100 yards.

I read an interesting article over at Chuck Hawk's website about how some had a new m1a Scout that shot about 4.5" groups out of box using federal match ammo. he was able to cut that down to less than 2" with some minor modifications (lapping the barrel, trigger job, etc.).

I'm not looking for a super accurate gun, but I was wondering if 2 to 3 MOA be a realistic expectation out-of-box or would I be looking at more of a 5-6MOA gun? Would I have to get a trigger job and lap the barrel to achieve sub 3MOA accuracy?

I would use the gun at the range (100 to 600 yards), and also possibly for deer hunting. I don't need a tack driver, but would like something that would be reasonably accurate (2 to 3 MOA) using handloads.Thanks in advance.

If you are an experienced shooter, with good reloads; I don't think 2-3 moa would be unreasonable to attain. Sometimes you have do do a little tweaking to obtain this objective. We are talking DIY mods. dozier

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Old February 12th, 2012, 08:51 AM   #3
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Howdy- I have a scout and I found it was a 3-4 MOA out of the box with 150gr Winchester Power points and 147gr Winchester white box FMJ's.- I am not an Expert Rifleman, but practiced.

I read the chuckhawks article and did the Tubbs Final Finish. This Mod brought me into the sub 3MOA with 150gr Winchester Power points and 147gr Winchester white box FMJ's.

I am in the process of dialing in a couple of loads for the same purpose- Hunting and targets out to 600m. So far I am VERY happy with my handloads @ 100m. Between 1-2moa and I'm not done experimenting.

The search function on this sight is my favorite feature on this sight as there is a tremendous amount of experience to learn from. Loading for service rifle is a bit different than a bolt action and challenging. This is a conscientious community of shooters and they will help get you on the right direction.

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Old February 12th, 2012, 09:26 AM   #4
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My Scout was one of those 4-6 inch groupers outta the box. Using the info on this website, I slowly got my groups down to 1.5 to 2 inch with the simple home fixes listed below. My trigger group was untouched to get that far. You will want to focus on this cheap stuff first.

1. Clearance the stock from rubbing on the gas cylinder or op rod.
2. Clearance the hand guard from rubbing on the stock.
3. Properly shim the gas cylinder until gas lock snugs around 5 o'clock.
4. Grease the front band where it touches the ferrul.
5. Verify your action with tilt tests on oprod/bolt and piston.

Do those five before buying magic components.

Thanks from RAMMAC, dozier, Ranak and 1 others
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Old February 12th, 2012, 09:29 AM   #5
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Most often the fit and finish of the rifle causes the most trouble with the stock being a big issue. Very often you find that the stock is touching the barrel out toward the muzzle and this causes the groups to be erratic. It's not uncommon to see major group size improvements after carving a little on the stock with a Dremel tool. The hand guard is another common problem, again if it makes contact in the wrong places it will have negative effect on your groups and this is just another simple handyman kind of problem. And then the fit of the gas cylinder and the front band are a common issue that can improve group sizes.

In my limited experience I've found that after making those adjustments, and with a good hand load you can make most M1A rifles, regardless of model, stay within 2 MOA.

Thanks from dozier and Ranak
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Old February 13th, 2012, 11:05 AM   #6
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Most often the fit and finish of the rifle causes the most trouble with the stock being a big issue. Very often you find that the stock is touching the barrel out toward the muzzle and this causes the groups to be erratic. It's not uncommon to see major group size improvements after carving a little on the stock with a Dremel tool. The hand guard is another common problem, again if it makes contact in the wrong places it will have negative effect on your groups and this is just another simple handyman kind of problem. And then the fit of the gas cylinder and the front band are a common issue that can improve group sizes.

In my limited experience I've found that after making those adjustments, and with a good hand load you can make most M1A rifles, regardless of model, stay within 2 MOA.
Ding, Ding, Ding, add the thinner NM front site and you will be at 1.5 MOA all day. With some home made 168/175 or store bought match you should get below 1MOA if you do your part. Most of the mods listed above are easy to do and accept for the boat anchor barrel and bedding you will have a weapon pretty darn close to NM specs.

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Old February 15th, 2012, 10:15 AM   #7
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Mine was in the 3-5 MOA right out of the box using 150grain cheap ammo. I have recently learned that 168 is your only option for repeat consistency that would allow you to make truly effective adjustments. If you dont already practice this, I highly suggest you use 168 to dial your weapon initially, and not be surprised the groups spread out a little bit with cheaper ammo. My groups are 1 (or sub) MOA with 168 at 100yrds, but 3-5 MOA in the same firing position, same day, same variables with anything else. Its pretty amazing actually.

I am also running a NM Rear sight on mine that I find better than the standard. The peephole really allows you to get a proper & consistent sight picture. On the front end, I put a "techsight" FSP system on that is a AR type system allowing you to change your post sizes & styles. I got the smallest FSP I could find on the market (think from DPMS) which allows for a much more precision POI because it doesnt cover the target as much. Besides that, there are a bunch more DIY Mods that improve accuracy and it will become your obsession. All the ones I have done made the weapon better. Good luck

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Old February 15th, 2012, 09:00 PM   #8
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Mine shot 1-1.5 MOA from the start using match type hand loads with either the Sierra 168gr BTHP or the Hornady AMAX.

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