M14 Forum

82nd ABN · February 6th, 2012, 03:00 PM

Dprice it has to be in a service rifle A2 configuration. No changes are allowed. You can use 1/4x1/4 rear sight. My rear sight does not have meters marked on it. The NM sight has 0-5-10-15-20 which just indicates clicks or a reference point. I need to zero at 200 yards with the front sight post, adjust for the x ring with the rear sight then loosen the set screw and place the 9:00 position if your looking down at the rear sight and adjust the drums and then tighten the set screw again. The 0 will indicate my 200 yard zero.

ppcshooter1 · February 6th, 2012, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by art7

Marty,

Now that you mention it - it makes sense. I said "I think" about the detent being top or bottom because I did not have it in front of me, and was trying to visualize it, but now that I think about it, the hole for the detent ball is the same as the hole for the allen screw. It continues from the carry handle through the opening for the elevation drum, into the upper receiver. So the detent ball and spring are below the elevation drum and the allen goes in from above.

As long as we're all on the same page.

Marty

MFD · February 6th, 2012, 04:16 PM

All of the above very good advise and similar to how I do it, but as an additional aid to seeing your numbers on the elevation drum, use white paint pen and fill the numbers to see easily. I also after determining my 200, 300 and 600 zeroes, mark vertical line with white paint on the drum edge so quick reference without having to see the small numbers or count the clicks. I know that most advise leaving some 7 or so clicks from mechanical bottom, but I bottom mine out and obtain 200yd zero via front sight and only way to go is up for other yardages. If you get lost on sight settings, re adjust to bottom and go up as you have determined by white marks. Might mention that some front sight posts have 5 detents and those are 1moa per adjustment as opposed to those with 4 and they are 1.25 and as stated one rev gives you 5" at 100yds. Either system w/ one rev will give you 5" at 100yds. When you get as old as I am you can't see well nor count well either.

ppcshooter1 · February 6th, 2012, 04:22 PM

Yes, that is some good advise but I do have a question. What do you do if lighting conditions make you shoot high at 200 yards? You won't be able to adjust your zero down without using your front sight. That's why most leave some clicks between their 200 yard zero and bottoming the sight.

Marty

82nd ABN · February 6th, 2012, 05:25 PM

That's what I did Marty I think I have about 6 or 7 clicks up from bottom.

ppcshooter1 · February 6th, 2012, 05:35 PM

82nd ABN, my last post wasn't directed at you, it was directed at MFD but it's nice to know you are aware of the wisdom in it.

Marty

Skeet6 · February 6th, 2012, 05:36 PM

I keep mine set up similar to how Marty said on the last page...

On my competition uppers/rifles, I zero them at about 5-6 clicks up (1/4 min Northern Competition sights) at 100 yards, as my weekly practice is at my local range, (which is only 100 yards). This is with my practice ammo, which is 52 grain SMKs. Then when I go to a competition, I simply click up to my 200 yard zero and go from there. (77 and 80 SMK's)...
Mike B

MFD · February 6th, 2012, 06:34 PM

You make a good point about not having any further downward adjustment, but for me just take more line of white between bottom of bullseye(6 o'clock hold) I tend to always leave a fine line of white so as to not "bury" the post in the black for fear of ending up high and in the 9 or 8 ring or worse. Truth of the matter is I conentrate more on front sight post than the actual target itself and even with light conditions varying, if my position/hold/sling/etc. is as it should be, they will be in there most of the time. Your point of leaving some room at the bottom is the manner used by military shooters plus some say that the sight being bottomed out destorts the sight body itself??, but just a method I have developed over the years and don't like getting "lost" as some say with the sight and can quickly go to bottom and rev up as needed to get on again. Most of the 15/16 issue sights, even NM versions, unless you have the post versions by Fulton, that sight body tends to move or twists a bit and I put a layer of bedding compound, MarineTex on right back edge of handle, let cure and dress down to take up the movement there so as to have well centered travel up and down as elevation adjustments are made. Some are worse than others and some don't need any attention there, but I do it anyway just to be sure. Whatever system works for each shooter is the way to go.