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March 26th, 2011, 03:26 PM
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#1 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: CA/NV
Posts: 520
| Op rod guide block removal
Hello all,trying to get the oprod guide off my SAI loaded.took the roll pin out and it still wont come off.tried tapping it with a deadblow mallet and it wont budge.are these things pressed on and do they require more force?couldnt find anything in the stickies about this.thanks in adavnce!
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March 26th, 2011, 03:50 PM
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#2 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: CONUS
Posts: 483
| Quote:
Originally Posted by fortymikemike  Hello all,trying to get the oprod guide off my SAI loaded.took the roll pin out and it still wont come off.tried tapping it with a deadblow mallet and it wont budge.are these things pressed on and do they require more force?couldnt find anything in the stickies about this.thanks in adavnce! | Do you have a heat gun? Try giving it some heat and knocking it loose. I've heard rumors some are JB welded on there..... FWIW, My LRB op rod block was a PITA to get off to. A wood block, a mallet and some elbow grease.
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March 26th, 2011, 03:55 PM
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#3 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: CA/NV
Posts: 520
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Yes I do,will give that a try!
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March 26th, 2011, 04:02 PM
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#4 | | Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 2,768
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They're not really intended to come off. Ideally, it'll have an interference fit, so the barrel is knurled the guide is pressed on.
Why would you want to pull it, out of curiosity?
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March 26th, 2011, 04:04 PM
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#5 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: CA/NV
Posts: 520
| Quote:
Originally Posted by 30Caliber They're not really intended to come off. Ideally, it'll have an interference fit, so the barrel is knurled the guide is pressed on.
Why would you want to pull it, out of curiosity? | gonna drop it in a SAGE chassis.
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March 27th, 2011, 06:54 PM
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#6 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: CONUS
Posts: 483
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How'd it turn out? Any updates?
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March 27th, 2011, 07:17 PM
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#7 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: CA/NV
Posts: 520
| Quote:
Originally Posted by Domestique How'd it turn out? Any updates? | Yeah,i gave up on it last night.i tried the heat gun and it still wouldnt budge.so i just mocked it up on the chassis with the oprod guide in there.just getting it in the Sage chassis itself is a chore.i didnt put it all the way in.i really just wanted to see what it looked like.I'm just being impatient i have a LRB M25 going in that chassis,just wanted to see and feel it with something in there.Mods kindly move since i posted a pic of it in a Sage.thanks! 
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March 27th, 2011, 07:39 PM
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#8 | | Designated Marksman
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: La Mesa, CA
Posts: 662
| Try this...
get someone to hold the bbl muzzle down on a piece wood. Find an open-end wrench that fits the diameter of the bbl and fits over the guide. Whack the wrench close to the bbl with a mallet. Make sure you use a glove when you whack the wrench, or your wrench-holding hand will sting. You may want to heat the guide up first (don't over heat).
I used Hysol epoxy to do mine. Can you see any evidence of an adhesive when you look up close? Use a bright light. Often they are knurled and Locktited.
Of course, I'm assuming the roll pin is out.
Good luck
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March 28th, 2011, 04:42 AM
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#9 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: CONUS
Posts: 483
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Just make sure when to put the barrel down place it on a thick magazine so you do not ruin the crown. When I got mine off. I ahd someone hold the rifle barrel side down, I placed a wood block on top of the Oprod block and than used a mallet to hit the wood block.
The good news is your LRB M25 will NOT be glued on, at least mine wasn't, but it was a good solid 10 minutes of elbow grease.
Worst case scenarion I have heard of people actually cutting off the oprod block, but since you will not be leaving your Loaded in the Sage, I wouldn't even try that.
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March 28th, 2011, 05:01 AM
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#10 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Nowheresville
Posts: 1,254
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This was my solution: 
I got a couple of old chunks of aluminum plate, split them in half with screws to hold them together and made one to clamp onto the barrel (top) and the other to rest on the guide. Tighten each of the three screws 1/2 turn in succession and your guide block will press right off.
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February 15th, 2012, 08:04 PM
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#11 | | Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Texas
Posts: 2,313
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sorry to hijack is the shim on the gas system cosmetic or does it lend more to the "semi-free float" concept?
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February 15th, 2012, 08:05 PM
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#12 | | Fire Team Leader
Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Alabama
Posts: 195
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Wood block and hammer worked for my SAI
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February 15th, 2012, 09:35 PM
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#13 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Hamburg, Germany
Posts: 495
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Freezing spray from an electronics DIY shop worked best for me.
Wolf
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February 16th, 2012, 09:50 AM
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#14 | | Old Salt | Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredsen sorry to hijack is the shim on the gas system cosmetic or does it lend more to the "semi-free float" concept? | Unless you mean by "semi-free float" tweaking for improved accuracy, it doesn't do that but it's not cosmetic either. See this link for a discussion.
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February 16th, 2012, 05:06 PM
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#15 | | Platoon Commander
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 436
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Muzzle on the floor and a block of brass, aluminum or hardwood on top of the op rod guide then smack the block with a hammer. It's slow but it will move. Be sure to take your time and always hit the block and not the guide itself.
A good tip for smacking the Sage guide back on is using a 2 foot piece of aluminum pipe over the barrel and resting on the guide after it's lined up and whoopin' it with your BFH. Make sure the red dot is pointed toward the muzzle.
Note sure you really need to re-install the roll pin as it bolts solid to the chassis.
Hope that helps.
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