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M1A Barrel Break-in

This is a discussion on M1A Barrel Break-in within the The M14 forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Originally Posted by Visigoth9 IMHO some barrels are pigs, some are mediocre and some are the holy grail...ritual break-ins or not I couldn't agree more ...

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Old October 3rd, 2012, 03:14 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Visigoth9 View Post

IMHO some barrels are pigs, some are mediocre and some are the holy grail...ritual break-ins or not
I couldn't agree more with this! I've had some of all of them...

And now a little story of a Holy Grail Gun.
I inherited my Fathers Browning .300 Win Mag, He bought it new in 79 and a 3x9 Tasco world class. He wanted to have a pro mount the scope, so he took it to the gunsmith at a place in SLC. called the Holiday gun club. If any of you are from SLC you might know who I'm talking about, The old guy that was always in the little shack running the "ZeroMatic" machine before deer season...
Anyway, The old guy took the gun out of the box mounted the rings and scope put it in the Zero Matic and bore sighted it. My dad had 3 boxes of plain old Federal red box 180 grain. He loaded up and shot 3, looked through the spotting scope and made an adjustment to the scope, shot 3 more and looked in the spotting scope again. He looked at my Dad and said it's right on. My Dad said wow really? That was quick. He said "yeah but do you mind if I shoot a few more?" Dad said sure I have 3 boxes and laughed. He shot 3 more groups of 3 and had my Dad and I come look at the groups. They were all the smallest of clovers! All touching! They looked like one hole if you backed the power down a little on the spotting scope... Remember this was plain Jane Fed Red.
He un clamped the gun and handed it to my Dad and said "Don't EVER sell this gun! It is the finest shooting gun I have ever taken out of a box!" Dad said really? The old guy said "oh yeah, I have done this a thousand times and that is the best one ever" My Dad and I were shocked and blow away... We shot the rest of the 3 boxes off the bench and got sore sholders, and it really was a shooter!
Needless to say I still have it and it still shoots as good as ever if I do my part. I'm working on some new loads for it but it doesn't seem to matter much what you feed it. It is just so sharp. I probably need to have it re crowned after feeding it so many hot loads to really sharpen it up. lol
It is a true Holy Grail gun from the first shot.

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Old October 3rd, 2012, 04:55 AM   #17
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OK, I get the impression that a "formal" break-in of the barrel is not necessary! My barrel is a Douglas SS heavy match barrel (question from on poster). I will put the rifle to the test this weekend with about 100 rounds. Thanks for everyone's input.

PS - "Those who live by the sword, are usually shot by those that don't!"---Author Unknown

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Old October 3rd, 2012, 05:51 AM   #18
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This has been covered for years.
There is actually a web article, written by the person that came up with the break in period idea. It was used to basically put more rounds down the barrel, to hasten the wear down process, to sell a new barrel faster.

Now, I would say that about 200 rounds will shake anything out.
But, first go, field strip, grease, reassemble and shoot.

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Old October 3rd, 2012, 05:36 PM   #19
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In my humble opinion you should warm it up slowly. As previously stated, Don't go dumping full mags down the tube all at once.
My personal barrel break in period is the amount of rounds needed to sight it in.
And yes a clean chamber is a happy chamber.
Quite a few problem's can be cured by cleaning the chamber.
You will find out yourself in about 400 rounds.

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Old October 4th, 2012, 08:20 AM   #20
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200 yards...

no need, just have fun shooting. match barrels are factory lapped

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Old October 4th, 2012, 09:16 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by SnakeQ View Post
OK, I get the impression that a "formal" break-in of the barrel is not necessary! My barrel is a Douglas SS heavy match barrel
YEA Douglas!!!!!!

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Old October 4th, 2012, 12:44 PM   #22
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With my new barrels on new guns this has always been what I do:

Bore snake the barrel.
Load two rounds into magazine.
Load the gun and fire first round making sure it feeds the second round without firing the second. This is making sure of no unwanted full auto or slam fire. It also checks magazine feeding.
Unload the gun. Check second round for any scraping or problems caused from loading.
Bore snake the barrel.
Load one round and fire it.
Make sure rifle is clear and unloaded.
Bore snake the barrel.
Repeat this process 3 more times for a total of five rounds fired with a snaking after each. This also ensures good magazine function and good rifle function.
Load 5 rounds into mag.
Load mag into gun.
Fire the five rounds slow fire. Do not heat the barrel up. 1 round every ten seconds or so.
Unload and clear the gun.
Snake the barrel.
Repeat 2 more times for a total of 15 rounds fired slow fire with a snaking between sets of five.
At this point I would consider the barrel broke in. I would suggest a full magazine (M1A = 20 rounds) shot rapid fire (one shot per breath, i.e. Rifleman's Cadence) to test the gun as it heats up.

This is how I start a new barrel on a new gun. It is my process and so far it has worked. It checks function of the gun and of the magazines. Remember to use quality ammo for the break-in period. Steel cased Russian stuff can come later when the gun is for sure 100% as it should be. Remember, this is my process! Does it help the barrel? I would like to think so. Does it build my confidence in the gun if it passes? Absolutely! I know a gun is a machine. And machines do require time to break in. We aren't only talking about the barrel, but what about the op rod and spring? All the trigger parts? Where the bolt runs? There will be stuff in those places that over time when the gun is used and rounds are shot, will wear into each other creating a smoother running gun, a broke-in rifle.

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Old October 4th, 2012, 01:09 PM   #23
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I believe this lady best demistrates the proper procedure.

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Old October 4th, 2012, 01:55 PM   #24
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It has taken me a lot of reading before I felt like I was even beginning to understand "barrel break in".

I bet in another 30 years I will continue to be learning new things about cleaning the barrel of a firearm.
I am not aware of the break in process referenced by the gentleman in post #18, but that sounds like the sort of stunt some #(&% would pull.

Two things have guided me on this subject.

This is the first bit of Kreiger's treatise on break in and cleaning proccedure.

With any premium barrel that has been finish lapped -- such as your Krieger Barrel --, the lay or direction of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, so fouling is minimal compared to a barrel with internal tooling marks. This is true of any properly finish-lapped barrel regardless of how it is rifled. If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. This occurs even in a button-rifled barrel as the button cannot completely iron out these reamer marks.

The text is a bit complex, but seems sound. BASICALLY if you have a nice custom barrel that has been finish lapped you will see less copper fouling.

Here I assume "break in" is not about number of rounds fired, but is about the amount of fouling you have to prevent from building up

the other thing i have been guided by is Rammac's posts on cleaning. Alot of folks do not realize you have to use the proper solvent to remove carbon buildup, and that there are other solvents used for copper build up.

Copper build up being what we are concerned with regarding "break in".

Rammac, I cannot find the particular post, but it was well written. There are alot of threads on this.. so its a sea of opinions.

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Old October 4th, 2012, 01:58 PM   #25
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So my question now is, are SAI , SEI, USGI barrels finish lapped?

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Old October 5th, 2012, 02:15 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by 4Quangs View Post
Krieger has a break-in procedure on their web site: http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_...246-wp2558.htm.
When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore.
Good link. I'd assume for an M14 that same copper dust is going to get into the gas chamber, however. Though it's probably not much, I'd think it would be more detrimental to your moving parts than mere carbon.

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