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February 17th, 2012, 09:54 AM
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#16 | | Lifer
Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,716
| I haven't read every post here, but my advice on a 7.62 purchase is buy an LRB and then be happy all the way. |
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February 17th, 2012, 10:11 AM
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#17 | | Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,492
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You can't go wrong with any manufacturer of receiver. It all comes down to:
A) what you want the receiver heel to say, M1A, M14 SA, M14 NM, M25, and branding; Springfield Armory, LRB, Smith Enterprises, 7.62MM, Armscorp, etc?
b) how much you want to spend on the receiver and the rifle?
c) do you care about keeping the rifle all 'USGI' or is commerically made reproduction parts okay with you?
You can certainly hunt for the USGI parts, whether they are new in the wrap, like new (re-parkerized), or original take-off. This can be a lot of fun, and will make you appreciate the quality of different parts. Or if you are in a hurry, buy a rifle from whomever you like, and replace the parts as you aquire them.
Match rifles will be for accuracy, SHTF rifles are by definition, anything you can pick up and use. Becuase when it happens, that's what you will be doing.
Buy because you like what you see. In all the years I've been on this forum, I have yet to hear of any manufacturers receiver change history. I have my preference and it is mine. Not anyone else's.
Good luck, and welcome.
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February 17th, 2012, 10:26 AM
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#18 | | Squad Leader
Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Bassfield, MS
Posts: 273
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Nothing wrong with Springfield, and if I wasn't a fan of forged receivers I wouldn't have a problem with owning one, if nothing else there no BS warranty makes them worth dealing with. That said my preference is for a forged receiver, partly due to the originals were forged and 7.62 makes a very high quality receiver.
I don't know about complete rifles from 7.62, but I would think it's like rifles from any other builder, some are outstanding, some are good, some have issues. It all depends on the skill and quality of the smith more than the rifle. My first rifle had mucho jamming issues do to the fact that the smith basically just put part A to part B with no regard to cleaning up an early production receiver that had a few burs that it shouldn't have had. Took it to an experienced smith and in short order it was running like a top.
My second m14 took me and two others approximately 4 hours to assemble and test fire, and part of that was taking the piston guide off an old barrel and trying to figure out how to install a sadlak scope mount. As an aside, sadlak was great to do business with and talked me through it.
I can speak for the quality of 7.62 parts, but I can't speak for there customer service as I've never had to use them, nor can I speak either way for there builders. All I can say is if I decide to build another rifle it will have a 7.62 receiver.
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February 17th, 2012, 10:43 AM
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#19 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: The Last Best Place
Posts: 1,866
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Good story 7th. I have an aversion to Chinese firearms, but I'm open-minded.
My philosophy is that this isn't a rush project, I'd rather spend a little extra on the right parts, but only buy as many parts as I need (as opposed to buying a full rifle and replacing the parts). This way I avoid paying for parts I'm not going to want on the final product. To me that is the best balance between cost and quality for something I want to depend on.
As far as parts go, GI parts are my default. As I chew the cud on what the best custom configuration is for me, I replace GI parts on the list with ones I would prefer, such as tritium front sights. If there is a less expensive commercial part that is truly equal in quality to a GI part (based on my purpose), I'll probably pick the commercial part.
Again, this isn't going to be a National Match accuracy build. Durability/reliability comes first, practicality/utility second, then accuracy.
Building this myself seems the best way to go, except for the barrel. I don't want to screw that up.
Thanks again guys!
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February 17th, 2012, 03:34 PM
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#20 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Dixie
Posts: 1,842
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If you aren't locked into having a forged receiver then the answer to your search may lie in a preban Springfield Armoury M-1A. There is nothing at all wrong with their cast receivers and the ones with under a 100K serial number are the preferred ones to have, at least according to some they were made better than the later ones.
The prebans (manufactured prior to September 19, 1994) usually have lots of USGI milsurp parts and are excellent rifles. I mentioned in my earlier post that I had a preban M-1A and I still own it to this day and I love that rifle. It has a TRW bolt, Winchester GI chrome lined barrel, TRW op rod and trigger group, etc in a very nice Bishop commercial walnut stock. I have the rifle mounted at the moment in a USGI fibreglass stock that I filled in the selector cut and had the stock professionally painted woodland cammo. It is a thing of great beauty. I have never shot this rife since I brought it home and hung it in my gun vault and probably never will shoot it. Owning it is more than enough for me since I have the three Polytech M-14/S rifles that I mentioned earlier and they are fine, accurate shooters that I can take the credit for building.
Seriously consider searching the web, the guns shows, gun shops and pawn shops for a used low mileage, unmolested preban M-1A if you don't want to go through the hassles of doing it yourself... And live happily ever after with your decision.
7th
Last edited by Seventh Fleet; February 18th, 2012 at 02:50 AM.
Reason: typo
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February 17th, 2012, 04:43 PM
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#21 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: The Last Best Place
Posts: 1,866
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Alright, I think I've figured this out. There's the specs:
-7.62mm hammer forged receiver
-This TRW USGI kit, substituting the 7.62 bolt for the TRW USGI, choosing the 18.5" chrome lined Criterion barrel, and removing the stock. Between the bolt substitute and the stock removal, that's down $5 from the original kit price: http://treelinem14.com/M14-M1A-Parts...W-M14PKTRW.htm
-This USGI synthetic kevlar-taped stock, with pre-attached front rail: http://treelinem14.com/M14-M1A-USGI-...t-M14SYSTG.htm
I don't mind buying the kit because so far the only parts I'm going to end up with an extra of are the front post (replace with tritium) and the rear aperture (replace with M1 model), and that's chump change for this project.
The stock is ugly and missing a butt place and rear swivel, but is supposed to be in good condition. I was going to try my hand at a custom camo paint job, or at the very least a single color paint job anyways. I was also already going to replace the butt plate with the M1 butt plate, and I already have an extra sling swivel from a set I bought for my levergun. I'm okay with the rail being pre-mounted because I'm going to find a hard time getting access to a drill press once I move, at least at first.
How's that? Anyone got any praise or condemnation for this parts supplier? Exciting that that I'm really starting to narrow down my choices.
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February 17th, 2012, 05:12 PM
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#22 | | Fire Team Leader
Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: USA
Posts: 181
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Get a Springfield SOCOM I, SOCOM II, or Scout (with GI parts if you can find one). They have all of the gunsmith work done on them and they have a lifetime warranty. Take the extra money and buys lots of ammo while you still can and before a heavy tax is placed on ammo. Also buy your mags and extra stocks for messing around and maybe a scope and mount. You will save time and money. I have seen folks shoot the carbine Springfield rifles with relatively good scores at Camp Perry, all at the 300 yard line! Not too bad.
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February 17th, 2012, 05:14 PM
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#23 | | Master Gunner
Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Ozarks
Posts: 887
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Sounds like a winner here! Being a traditionalist I don't get into hybrids but if I ever do, I'll probably use your formula. Good luck with it!
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February 17th, 2012, 06:14 PM
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#24 | | Rifleman
Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Cleveland,TN
Posts: 46
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I like your plan. I'm in the same boat as you LausDeo. I been wanting to build one myself. I plan on using the LRB M25 receiver instead. Thanks for the link btw, I've been looking for a good parts kit. I have thought about having one built but just can't afford one at the moment. Good luck with what you choose. Lets us know, I'm really interested in how yours turns out. |
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February 17th, 2012, 06:19 PM
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#25 | | Platoon Sergeant
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Buckeye State
Posts: 356
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[QUOTE=LausDeo;805530]Anyone got any praise or condemnation for this parts supplier?QUOTE]
I don't have any personal experience with them, but here's some who do: Treelinem14 |
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February 17th, 2012, 08:48 PM
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#26 | | Platoon Sergeant
Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Kennesaw
Posts: 349
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Check this out. It might suit your needs. In this case I would just keep the HR Bolt and swap the barrel if you really want the shorter barrel. You can sell the HRA barrel easy. In my opinion don't pay for the hype of TRW. http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=68514 |
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February 17th, 2012, 09:05 PM
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#27 | | Platoon Sergeant
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Nebraska
Posts: 391
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LausDeo, your build sounds like pure awesomeness.
I've ordered a stock from Randy (Treeline), and he was great to work with. I have only heard good things about him on this site.
I'm actually drooling over your hypothetical finished product. Sounds like it would be a veritable beast.
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February 17th, 2012, 10:17 PM
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#28 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern KY
Posts: 1,251
| Quote:
Originally Posted by LausDeo still looking at flash hiders (really want a bayonet lug, but maybe I can have one welded on)
What do you guys think? Thanks for your input! Maybe I should build it myself after all, it's not like I don't have other rifles in the meantime. | You can not use a bayonet lugged flash suppressor with a 18 barrel because the gas cylinder plug will not screw out past the lug to get the gas cylinder piston out for cleaning. You would have to remove the suppressor to clean the gas system.
I would send the extra cash for a LRB reciecer. They are smooth as silk when cycled. Look to Jon Wolfe for a barrel. I think he has what you are looking for and his work is second to none. http://www.shop.m-14parts.com/Barrel...9.qscstrfrnt06 |
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February 18th, 2012, 10:39 AM
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#29 | | Old Salt
Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: The Last Best Place
Posts: 1,866
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Thanks again for your help guys. The fact that some of you are drooling is certainly a good sign :P
Now that you guys are interested, I'll certainly have to post pictures and give a range report once she's put together! I'm going to leave the EoTech and maybe the Grip Pod off at first, but someday they'll be added on. I'm not sure about the Grip Pod anymore though, based on the location of the bottom rail (would I be able to reach it?) If possible I'd pick it over a folding bipod though. Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicksilvergoat Check this out. It might suit your needs. In this case I would just keep the HR Bolt and swap the barrel if you really want the shorter barrel. You can sell the HRA barrel easy. In my opinion don't pay for the hype of TRW. | I could very well end up spending more replacing parts on that rifle, maybe not. The TRW kit is only $50 more than the HRA kit, so there's not of payment going towards "hype" in this scenario. I'd like to avoid selling things as it's unlikely I can sell for full value, and it's more work. Quickly this project has become about building a rifle more than buying one. Yeah that's work too, but way more fun, and it gives me something to show to gunsmiths and the like. Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblock You can not use a bayonet lugged flash suppressor with a 18 barrel because the gas cylinder plug will not screw out past the lug to get the gas cylinder piston out for cleaning. You would have to remove the suppressor to clean the gas system. | The kit comes with one, so I may have to just deal with it now. If it becomes a problem I may switch it out with a vortex or something. Or as NoExpert mentioned in another thread somewhere, I could replace the gas plug with a SOCOM 16 gas plug. Or I could do both and still weld a lug to the vortex. I'll sort that out when I get there. Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblock Look to Jon Wolfe for a barrel. I think he has what you are looking for and his work is second to none. | Quite an interesting barrel, but they're out of stock estimated until June. I'd like to get started on this before then, so that's out for now. I'll look into whether or not it'd be worth replacing the barrel I'm getting for that one (anyone can chime in on that if they'd like).
Last edited by LausDeo; February 18th, 2012 at 02:57 PM.
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