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Improving the M1 accuracy.

This is a discussion on Improving the M1 accuracy. within the M1 Garand Accuracy forums, part of the Rifle Forum category; Most of the tips I read suggest a trigger job, tightening the rear sight and the gas cylinder to improve accuuracy of your M1. All ...


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Old January 8th, 2017, 08:01 AM   #1
Lifer
 
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Improving the M1 accuracy.

Most of the tips I read suggest a trigger job, tightening the rear sight and the gas cylinder to improve accuuracy of your M1. All of these are excellent suggestions, but out of sequence.. The initial place to start is the Lower Band/Stock Ferrule...

If the Lower band is not properly aligned and secured to the barrel doing the above suggestions will not produce the full potential of the desired effects., nor will any other modifications including the best ammunition along with having Banbam test fire the rifle..

The Lower band is the place to start, starting there would include the stock ferrule. Since these two parts interact much like the M1A Front Band and Stock Ferrule.. It is a given both parts must be secure and aligned.

There are several methods to do this work, all of them good and not difficult. Choose the method you have the tools to do the work, do not rely on epoxy alone, it will fail in a short time. Once this is accomplisned than do the trigger, sight and gas cylinder.. Test you rifle with quality ammuniton.

In closing, it has been my experiencce that most M1's I inspect all have a loose Plug, the plug should be tight.. Art

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Old January 8th, 2017, 10:50 AM   #2
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Art,

Great points. How does one tighten the rear sight? I have never read about how to do this and would like to do it on my M-1's and M-14. Thanks!

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Old January 8th, 2017, 11:05 AM   #3
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Stock fit is at the top of this list, just about all USGI wood will have compressed wood.
Lock up is as important as bore condition. You can have everything else in spec but if stock fit is loose accuracy will suffer. The looser the lock up the worse rifle will group ( of course there are always exceptions)
Worn trigger guard lugs will also affect lock up

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Old January 8th, 2017, 12:32 PM   #4
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Orlando makes an excellent point.

There are numerous mods that can be made, all the way up to a Match conditioned rifle. My suggestion is only a starting point, but a very important one.. Of course, a tight trigger guard lock up is near the top of the list of things to do, it is also one of the things, I assumed, most M1/M1A owners know, where as the lower band condititon may be a mystery.. A big thank you to Orlando..

Last week I mentioned the improvement in my Rack Grade M1 using a neck bushing of .337", and no neck expanding, it was a suspicions improvement.... Since than the lower band has been worked over along with a limited securing and clearanceing of the hand guards and tighting the gas cylinder, this takes me about three hours.

This Rack grade M1 is in outstanding condition, it came out of a collection. The main reason I purchased it was because it had a new NM opt rod, don't see many of those in Texas.. The 1945 barrel reads 1.5 and the muzzle the same, hard to pass this one up. The Fredrickburg Gun Show has surprises, also purchased from the same collection, a CMP M1D, packaged, sold in 1995, it is looking for a new Home...

The Range report after these mods was interesting. Fired a 10 shot group off the bench at 100 yds., seven were just off the rt. of the X ring, measureing 1.065", the three others I account to the 82 rule..

One of our members has asked about tighening the rear sight up, will someone else address this for him. Art

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Old January 8th, 2017, 02:13 PM   #5
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Just for giggles I'll throw out some food for thought...

Coming late to this madness just a few years back, and desiring 'one' rifle i could compete in all the local HP matches with, I bought an M1 from CMP. Course one would never suffice but that's another story.

In my quest for the elusive "1MOA" Garand I took note of rifles showing up at the range with better than normal accuracy...this of course after I'd done all the prescribed 'accurizing' tips to my own rifles (note plural). Two of note: a CMP 'special' and a Dane were incredibly fond of 10 shot groups off bags in the 1.5" range! Both of those rifles had NO movement at the front band, ie. you could not squeeze the barrel at the band and perceive ANY movement...locked down!

Of course I went back and tried to duplicate the setup through various mods to the ferrel/stock..only to make groups generally horrid. My match rifles now have considerable draw pressure at the ferrel and one other ancient NM from the early 60's inherited from his grandpa showed up and it too has serious draw pressure. The two above anomalies have caused me a serious amount of tinkering and range time to no avail.

I'm now of opinion, beyond performing the above posting basics, M1 performance is WAAAAY more art than science.

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Old January 8th, 2017, 02:30 PM   #6
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If the underneath side of the sight cover rib is worn it may not hold the aperture in place and it can move back and forth as there is slop between the sight base and aperture. Some people try and bend or peen the sight cover for more tension but you are better off replacing it
Another fix for aperture slop is to peen the base on the sides were the rails are .This is not a mod for somone who doesnt know what they are doing. Its best to aneal the sight base first or you run the risk of cracking it. I know this first hand
Its also not JCG Match legal

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Old January 8th, 2017, 02:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alta fuego View Post
...
Both of those rifles had NO movement at the front band, ie. you could not squeeze the barrel at the band and perceive ANY movement...locked down!
...
--------------------------
Not being able to have movement at the front band by strong hand pressure seems like an unusual condition - especially if there was clearance between the stock and the lower handguard (and not some other mechanical cause).

I'd be interested in knowing how much force is needed to close the trigger guard to result in that condition.

edit: perhaps that would work if the lower handguard is pulled down into contact with the stock, AND the stock ferrule securely holds the band (and the barrel) in a consistent position for each shot

Jay Kosta
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Old January 8th, 2017, 03:19 PM   #8
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No movement

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayKosta View Post
--------------------------
Not being able to have movement at the front band by strong hand pressure seems like an unusual condition - especially if there was clearance between the stock and the lower handguard (and not some other mechanical cause).

I'd be interested in knowing how much force is needed to close the trigger guard to result in that condition.

edit: perhaps that would work if the lower handguard is pulled down into contact with the stock, AND the stock ferrule securely holds the band (and the barrel) in a consistent position for each shot

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA

I would like to think the no movement mentioned is in reference to rotational movement of the lower band.. Lost a bit here...Art

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Old January 8th, 2017, 03:49 PM   #9
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I had opportunity to reinspect both of the 'frozen' rifles at a later date, (it bugged ell out of me), in both cases the hand guard was free to move so the 'lockup' had to be interference in the barrel band to ferrel relationship. I attempted to duplicate it only to get LOTS of vert stringing and erratic groups.
One of the guys asked if they needed to 'fix' it? NO NO NO not as long as it shoots like that...some things just make you go duh?? :)

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Old January 9th, 2017, 12:54 PM   #10
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Jerking the trigger, a form of 'nervous shooting' syndrome, does nothing to improve accuracy, not to mention that it will likely result in misdiagnosing accuracy problems.

The real issue - though it's not very flattering to hear - is that 90+% of M1 Garand and M1A owners would do MUCH better by first learning how to shoot these rifle before they go spending oodles of $$$ trying to "accurize' them.

Just sayin' ...

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Old January 9th, 2017, 12:59 PM   #11
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The above is Gospel!

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Old January 9th, 2017, 01:32 PM   #12
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Range Time, Range Time and then more Range Time.
At one time I went to the range atleast once to twice a week and would spend a minimum of 4 hours. Didnt shoot quanity but shot quality rounds and my shooting improved dramatically. A couple years ago I changed jobs and I dont hardly get any time at the range and my shooting reflects it

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Old January 10th, 2017, 03:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlando View Post
Range Time, Range Time and then more Range Time.
At one time I went to the range atleast once to twice a week and would spend a minimum of 4 hours. Didnt shoot quanity but shot quality rounds and my shooting improved dramatically. A couple years ago I changed jobs and I dont hardly get any time at the range and my shooting reflects it
Major truth right there!!

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Old January 11th, 2017, 05:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlando View Post
Another fix for aperture slop is to peen the base on the sides were the rails are. This is not a mod for somone who doesnt know what they are doing. Its best to aneal the sight base first or you run the risk of cracking it. I know this first hand
Its also not JCG Match legal
As this fix is unseen, I do believe it falls under the carefully assembled category and is thus legal for JCG builds.

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Old January 11th, 2017, 08:02 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by stripper clip View Post
Art,

Great points. How does one tighten the rear sight? I have never read about how to do this and would like to do it on my M-1's and M-14. Thanks!
I'm obviously NOT Art, but to avoid reinventing the wheel (so to speak) I'll just "link to a Pro" - Working on Rear Sight Assemblies - by Gus Fisher

P.S. - RSB peening is of course covered in Kuhnhausen's Service Rifle book

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