M14 Forum

Amsdorf · December 27th, 2011, 05:07 AM

I'm getting a massive migrain reading a lot of posts and suggestions about how to zero the Garand.

Need some advice. What do you guys say to this?

Best advice I've heard so far is...and this is assuming you want to zero it at 100 yards...

Get on the bullseye at 100 from a good benchrest, then, when you are there, carefully hold the rear peep site and unscrew the sight knob, turn it all the way down, and tighten it back down.

That way you will be zeroed at 100 yards, permanently, and then you can adjust it up for longer distances, or hold it differently for anything under 100.

I've been told that if you do this and you are in a competition and your knob gets loose, you just readjust it like before and click up from there.

Would appreciate your thoughts on this.

art luppino · December 27th, 2011, 06:53 AM

It would be a good idea to have at least three clicks down left once you find the elevation for 200 yards.. Then mark the knob with an index line for quick reference.. ..

MFD · December 27th, 2011, 07:15 AM

I do similar set up as you mention, but zero mine at 200yds but have the sight rack/hood bottomed out. Only way to go is up for longer ranges and if I become "lost" on elelvation adjustments, quickly go back to bottom, put the come ups for whatever distance being shot at and good to go. I have to shave the front sight post a bit to have 200yd zero w/ sight bottomed out, but not really a big deal w/ a little time on range adjusting as needed. For 300yds add 3moa from 200yd. zero and for 600 add 10moa. I've only had the elevation drum come loose once and that was due to my error in not tightening the slotted screw enough. I use a white paint pen to mark the drum and small white dot on side of sight base to use as reference. I agree with the idea of leaving a few clicks from bottom in doing this, but being slow don't want to run the chance of fogetting about those three and mess up, but that is just me

Gus Fisher · December 27th, 2011, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amsdorf

Get on the bullseye at 100 from a good benchrest, then, when you are there, carefully hold the rear peep site and unscrew the sight knob, turn it all the way down, and tighten it back down.

That way you will be zeroed at 100 yards, permanently, and then you can adjust it up for longer distances, or hold it differently for anything under 100.

I've been told that if you do this and you are in a competition and your knob gets loose, you just readjust it like before and click up from there.

Would appreciate your thoughts on this.

OK, maybe I'm missing something here. If you hold a rear sight aperture and loosen the screw in the elvation pinion, the pinion drum will turn, but the aperture won't move. Then if you tighten the screw again, it won't change where the aperture is.

Do you perhaps mean you hold the aperture and loosen the screw in the pinion and then turn the drum until the 100 yard or meter mark is upward and then screw the screw in the pinion tight again?

MFD · December 27th, 2011, 09:49 AM

You should see a small hash mark/line on the left side of the sight body/block which is used to line up with whatever number you are seeking on the elevation drum. Yes, if you loosen the slotted screw, the drum will rotate and not move the sight rack itself.
After you tighten slotted screw, then the rack will travel upward or downward. The elevation drum has a spring washer inside and loosening the screw relieves the prssure and does not get a purchase/bitte on the serrations in the left receiver sight ear. I put a touch of white paint on the hash mark on the sight body to make it easier to see.
If you want you can paint the elevation drum where the numbers are and let it dry for a bit and then take Hoppes to wipe it off and only the numbers will have the white left in there for easier seeing the various numbers. Certainly not a must do thing, but just makes it easier to see what the sight setting is elevation wise.