M14 Forum

ONI Spook R111

Hey all. I'm pretty new to the forum here, and I've got a few questions about the M1D(with barrel block) and the Sage International EBR M1 Garand chassis.

Will the barrel block interfere with the chassis functionality? (Specifically how the barrel and gas system float)
Can the rifle even be installed in the chassis at all?
Will the stock need to be modified by a gunsmith for installation?(Probably, huh?)

Now I just have some questions about the M1D.

Where can I get an accurate and reliable reproduction M1/M1D? (I don't have the money for an original. I hear they're pretty pricey. However, I wouldn't mind spending 2,500 on a base rifle if need be.)

What parts would you recommend for a consistent, accurate and reliable build?(Preferably a manufacture that's easy to find. I'd like to get all of the parts together within a few months of compiling the funds.)

Call me crazy, but I think it'd be pretty cool to have a big, black M1D with the ol' pointy flash suppressor on it. I plan to use the fixed stock version of Sage's EBR chassis with a cheek riser and green webbed sling.

303 Epps

Looks like the Sage System is made for the standard barrel Garands. I'm in the same boat by having a heavy barrel National Match Garand. I would love to go Sage with a Griffen & Howe scope mount.

Twinson

Sage Garand stock....Yuk!!! Keep em classic like John designed them boys...

Gus Fisher

I can't speak to the Sage stock, though I have some thoughts on making the M1 into an M1D.

In actual use, the snipers found that both the long finger Flash Suppressor (FS) and the open funnel FS SERIOUSLY hurt accuracy, so they took them OFF the rifles to use them.

The VERY best thing you can do is find a REAL G.I. barrel block and NOT use a repro one. The less expensive repro's are not hardened correctly and SOON wear loose. The only way to correct that is to drill out the threads on top the block, tig weld a hardened threaded insert in place and reparkerize the whole thing. But, you wind up paying almost as much, if not more for the repro lug and work than buying an original front block.

If you want the rifle to "look good," then buy the later open funnel FS and ONLY use it for display. You can somewhat easily take it off when you want to go shoot for accuracy.

jeremy69

Gus, not that I have any doubt to your statement.... I have read where guys have taken these Flash hiders to the range to check the accuracy myth and found that the funnel types were very bad for accuracy, whereas the prong type did not have much effect at all. I intend to try it one day, but don't know that my shooting would yield repeatable results anyway ;).....

Gus Fisher

Jeremy,

It's true that a properly mounted prong type FS does not hurt accuracy as much as the funnel type, but it still hurts accuracy at 300 yards and beyond. (This was absolutely confirmed time and again by Snipers in Viet Nam as well as the Korean War and WWII. They took OFF the prong type FS's in many/if not most cases.) It ALSO had best be mounted and checked with the M14 Flash Suppressor Alignment gage to ensure the bore of the FS is in line with the rifle bore. Repro prong type FS's are BAD TO HORRIBLE for not aligning with the rifle bore. I've only mounted four of them, but they ALL had to be cleared out/reamed so the bullet would not hit them on the way out of the muzzle. Other repros were so bad we could not use them. The G.I. prong type FS's usually are not problem in this regard, though.