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How to tell if you have Ballard Rifling?

This is a discussion on How to tell if you have Ballard Rifling? within the Lever Action forums, part of the Gun Forum category; buy a laser bore sighter....


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Old October 20th, 2016, 08:44 PM   #31
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buy a laser bore sighter.

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Old October 24th, 2016, 06:22 PM   #32
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Well, I finally got my new scope, 2-7 Nikon ProStaff for 12 gauge slug gun, which I mounted this weekend. And as some of you guys mentioned the scope mounts were not "tight".

My scope was mounted professionally the first time, but the mounts have come loose over the years, I guess. I tightened them down (+blue locktite), then mounted the new scope.

I started at 25 yards (range finder) with 3 rounds to hit the center ring, then 3rounds at 50 yards, and 2 rounds at 100 yards and 1 more to make sure it wasn't a fluke.

I now feel very confident with the new (tight) setup and think I will shoot a few more times prior to gun season. Now that this major issue has been put to bed I discovered another problem! Now, every time I pull the trigger $2.00 goes down range...hand loading is probably in my future...

Anyways, a big thank you to all ya'll for the tips and guidance! WhoAaaah!

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Old October 25th, 2016, 06:48 PM   #33
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I've owned a Marlin 1894 Cowboy rifle in .45 Colt, and the Ballard Rifling in it was visibly deep and what you would expect to see if looking down the bore of , say, a Ruger Vaquaro, or Super Redhawk. I currently own a late JM production 94 in .45Colt with current version Ballard rifling, as well as a current "RemLin" ( Marlin by current owner Remington ) 94 .44 Magnum, and a RemLin 1894 .45-70 Cowboy, also with the current version of "Ballard" rifling. I can tell you, the current Ballard rifling is NOT deep as you would expect. It is in fact visibly SHALLOW. Marlin / Remiln likewise had/ has for some time, by design, it seems, considered it favorable to run the bore diameter on these rifles on the large side, to keep pressures down , per internet sources.
I had sent my 94 in .44 mag. back to be re barrelled, as the rifling was that poor. The replacement barrel is arguably better , but then, the first one should never have been installed in a rifle, and the rifle should never have been shipped.
In the .45-70 1895, the rifling is, again, shallow, with many extra machining marks running in the grooves from end to end. I have reason to expect the bore is on the large size there, too.
I do not cast my own bullets, but at least one large on line caster has sizing options for us in this situation, to include some gas-checked designs.
Time to slug some bores and find out what is REALLY needed. Oddly, my single shot .45-70s do not seem to require any such tomfoolery, big may get checked while I'm at it, just to see.

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Old October 26th, 2016, 04:17 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shooter7 View Post
Well, I finally got my new scope, 2-7 Nikon ProStaff for 12 gauge slug gun, which I mounted this weekend. And as some of you guys mentioned the scope mounts were not "tight".

My scope was mounted professionally the first time, but the mounts have come loose over the years, I guess. I tightened them down (+blue locktite), then mounted the new scope.

I started at 25 yards (range finder) with 3 rounds to hit the center ring, then 3rounds at 50 yards, and 2 rounds at 100 yards and 1 more to make sure it wasn't a fluke.

I now feel very confident with the new (tight) setup and think I will shoot a few more times prior to gun season. Now that this major issue has been put to bed I discovered another problem! Now, every time I pull the trigger $2.00 goes down range...hand loading is probably in my future...

Anyways, a big thank you to all ya'll for the tips and guidance! WhoAaaah!
Glad you got it sorted out. Anytime you deal with mass-produced items there is always the chance you get a defective one - but the odds are still in your favor. As such when a problem arises it's best to work backwards and consider the last change first when attempting to ascertain the problem. Many scope bases and rings out there are aluminum. While adequate for general use - on hard recoiling guns one sometimes sees them give a bit over time. That is why on my hard-kicking rifles I prefer steel rings and use as you did blue lock-tite.

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