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How to tell if you have Ballard Rifling?

This is a discussion on How to tell if you have Ballard Rifling? within the Lever Action forums, part of the Gun Forum category; Originally Posted by Shooter7 Thing is I have a marlin in 375 and I love that rifle, and it is dead on. I really want ...


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Old August 25th, 2016, 06:18 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Shooter7 View Post
Thing is I have a marlin in 375 and I love that rifle, and it is dead on. I really want this 45-70 to be as good.

I will try the jacketed ammo, and keep trying until I find the food of choice.

Is there a way to breakdown the serial number to figure out what year this rifle is?
Does it have a JM proof barrel? If so, the 1st 2 numbers subtracted from 100. 91******* would be made in '09. 93******* would be '07. The newer JM Marlins have the serial number on the side of the receiver, and older models have it on the tang. I think all micro grove barrels were marked as such.

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Old August 25th, 2016, 06:33 PM   #17
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Micro-groove barrels have a lot of small, (narrow and shallow), lands and grooves instead of 4-5 lands and grooves. Mine was made in '76. Has a micro-groove barrel. I couldn't get a good group either until I ran strictly jacketed slugs. I did use cast but I did not oversize. May have to try that that the next time I cast slugs. -Lloyd

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Old August 25th, 2016, 06:41 PM   #18
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Micro grooved barrels work fine for jacketed bullets but not cast lead. For cast lead bullets you need the deeper ballard rifling if your sizing them to the same dimension of jacketed or try resizing them a tad bigger so you're getting rifling contact. My Marlin 336C had the micro grooved barrel so I always used jacketed bullets. Give it a shot with jacketed and see if your accuracy improves.

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Old August 26th, 2016, 07:21 PM   #19
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Thanks fellas, I appreciate the feedback!

I will try the jacketed rounds. I sorta thought the Leverrevolution rounds would be considered jacketed rounds.

And thanks for the tips on reading the serial number too!

Thanks from unkola
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Old August 26th, 2016, 07:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Shooter7 View Post
Thanks fellas, I appreciate the feedback!

I will try the jacketed rounds. I sorta thought the Leverrevolution rounds would be considered jacketed rounds.

And thanks for the tips on reading the serial number too!
The Hornady Leverevolution is a jacketed bullet but like anything else may not perform well and your rifle may need to ingest different mfg's and bullet weights to see what it likes the best.

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Old August 27th, 2016, 02:29 PM   #21
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Check to see if there's anything loose on the gun like the magazine tube or hand guard. These guns are often very accurate. I have a 45-70 Guide Gun that I bought in 2002 and it will touch three shots st 100 yards with the Leverevolution bullets hand loaded with RL-7. In fact it shoots everything I have put through it well cast and jacketed. I would not worry too much about the rifling, sounds like you have a different problem. As hard as these kick, it could be your scope too.

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Old August 27th, 2016, 03:20 PM   #22
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I do not see distance mentioned anywhere here. I would try a Target at 25 yards and keep moving out 10 yards each time to find out what distance your groups open up at. Groups of five shots minimum. That will also give you a better baseline to work with all types of ammo.

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Old August 27th, 2016, 03:48 PM   #23
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In order to save some money check with Midway USA and see if they still offer those Rem. jacketed 405gr bullets, bulk pack. Remember the original designation of the round was 45/70/405gr bullets. Sighting one of these off the bench is not a lot of fun due to recoil, but w/ towel between shoulder and butt will help out quite a bit. Accuracy of the caliber is actually quite good all things considered and has been used to take all sizes of game in North America. I currently shoot a Ruger No. 3 re barreled for length and weight and with heavy loads or light ones, it gives very good accuracy at 100yds. plus.


Last edited by Instructor; August 27th, 2016 at 03:48 PM. Reason: punctuation
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Old August 27th, 2016, 07:52 PM   #24
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I get fine accuracy from cast bullets in my Marlins with Micro Groove rifling. It all has to do with sizing and alloy type.

BTW, every Marlin M39 of which I'm aware has Micro Groove rifling and they shoot .22 ammo fine. Most .22's are soft lead, and though some have a wash of copper it is not a jacket.

It sounds to me like a problem other than bullet composition.

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Old September 20th, 2016, 06:34 PM   #25
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I have several boxes of the Leverevolution ammo, so that's next. I started at 50 yards to get it close, then out to 100 yards.

I will try 25 yards and move out to 50 then 100. I also have some of the 405 gr stuff that half the bullet is jacketed.

I hope I can get this squared away, or get me squared away whichever is the problem.


BTW, the serial number was on the tang and looks like it's a 2005 model. thanks


Last edited by Shooter7; September 20th, 2016 at 06:45 PM.
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Old October 13th, 2016, 08:55 PM   #26
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You can shoot cast bullets in a Marlin MG barrel just don't turn them up to fast, I shoot hard cast 300 and 325gn out of my 444 Marlin all the time and they are very accurate. If you shoot cast bullets in a MG marlin just check the barrel for leading and when your done shooting shoot a tube full of jacketed bullets and this will help with cleaning.

Casey

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Old October 14th, 2016, 07:47 AM   #27
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Well, if the rifle is "micro groove" it will say so on the barrel. If it is "ballard" there will be asterisks on both sides of the model. For Example when you look at the barrel if it reads ***Model 1895.....***
I don't recall when this started, but I've found it true for all of my Marlin rifles from 1957 forward.

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Old October 14th, 2016, 07:47 PM   #28
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I have collected marlin 39s in 22,they used ballard until 53,after that micro,,

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Old October 16th, 2016, 05:21 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shooter7 View Post

I will re-check the scope mounts.
Bingo!

As noted by others - Marlin stopped micro-grooving centerfire barrels long ago. It only uses micro-groove on it's .22's. As to inability to zero - always look to the scope first. A classic sign of loose scope bases is a "wandering zero". All may seem tight and secure - but that is just the action of the scope acting as a brace between the bases so that it seems solid. Yet upon firing - one or both of the bases may move ever so slightly - causing your zero of wander. So if you are as noted using factory ammo and your barrel is clean with no fouling or obstructions - then always re-mount the scope to ensure all is as should be. If still a problem - then consider the scope itself. If you can get ahold of another scope - try mounting and zeroing that one. If it still won't zero - then it's the gun. If it turns out the barrel is bad - Remington should replace it as it would be under warranty.

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Old October 20th, 2016, 02:44 PM   #30
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I have a 1895GBL 45-70 I got last year NIB. Its a tack driver. Its not uncommon to have 2rds overlapping and the 3rd making a cloverleaf at 100 yards. I'm using 48,0gr of H4198, starline brass with WLR primers and 300gr Sierra HP's or Hornady's 300gr HP's. Same POI for either load. I'm getting 1900fps from my chrono. I'll bet a paycheck its your scope or mount that is the problem.

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