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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

This is a discussion on Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy? within the Lever Action forums, part of the Gun Forum category; Originally Posted by Eagle7840 Nice advantage of a lever gun is that you're not chasing your ejected brass. Shooting from a bench rest at the ...


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Old August 4th, 2016, 04:08 PM   #76
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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

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Originally Posted by Eagle7840 View Post
Nice advantage of a lever gun is that you're not chasing your ejected brass. Shooting from a bench rest at the range the brass drops right onto the table!


Yeah - it's nice to have the brass stay close unlike the PTR91 that I sold recently which threw brass as high as low earth orbit and as far as the next county. I don't miss that gun as much as I thought that I would


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Old August 4th, 2016, 04:41 PM   #77
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I bought the SBL in 45-70 Cal the year of the transition between Marlin & Remington.

Must have got lucky because I had no issues at all except that the action was a little stiff which was solved after cycling the action a hundred times or so. Things to look for on the now nicked named Remlin Rifles are; The Front Sight Blade not being properly indexed on the Barrel, Gaps in the wood between the Stock Tang, receiver and the forearm.
I found reloading this for target plinking is relatively cheap considering the price of Manufactured Cartridges. I prefer shooting 405 Gr Lead Flat Nose bullets with H4198 Powder loaded to a velocity of around 1300 fps and you have will have a very comfortable recoil more of a push then a shove.

Enjoy !!!

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Old August 4th, 2016, 05:11 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by gkayea View Post
I bought the SBL in 45-70 Cal the year of the transition between Marlin & Remington.

Must have got lucky because I had no issues at all except that the action was a little stiff which was solved after cycling the action a hundred times or so. Things to look for on the now nicked named Remlin Rifles are; The Front Sight Blade not being properly indexed on the Barrel, Gaps in the wood between the Stock Tang, receiver and the forearm.
I found reloading this for target plinking is relatively cheap considering the price of Manufactured Cartridges. I prefer shooting 405 Gr Lead Flat Nose bullets with H4198 Powder loaded to a velocity of around 1300 fps and you have will have a very comfortable recoil more of a push then a shove.

Enjoy !!!
Thanks for the tips. I'll make sure to check those things out when I go to pick up the rifle. I've seen other people mention these issues as well so I'm guessing that there were some common problems during the transition (hopefully they've got them worked out now)

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Old August 4th, 2016, 05:44 PM   #79
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The 45-70 can be loaded with many powders. I have loads with IMR3031,IMR4895,RL7 and so forth.I Load everything on single stage press.
If you want a fun load for the range,get some soft cast 405gr lead bullets and load with 13.0-14.0 gr of Unique.Good shootin.

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Old August 5th, 2016, 04:07 AM   #80
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Can anyone recommend a good reloading manual that I can use to make plinking rounds for the 45-70 and 44 Mag? I'm going to start ordering some reloading supplies and I figured that a good manual should be #1 on the list

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Old August 5th, 2016, 04:36 AM   #81
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Hi Medved11 -> The top rifle is a Marlin 1895 Cowboy in 45-70 with a 26" octagon barrel. It has a MVA Vernier rear sight, barrel front sight for silhouette shooting, there is also a Lyman rear receiver peep sight(that is removable with the push of a button) that is removed when using the vernier.

For reloading, you have a TON of options on bullets!!!
From the left :9mm round, 2 38cal bullets, 244cal and the rest are all 45cal....starting with a 250gr cast bullet up to the 630gr Spitzer with a lot of different weights in between!!!

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Old August 5th, 2016, 04:45 AM   #82
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Can anyone recommend a good reloading manual that I can use to make plinking rounds for the 45-70 and 44 Mag? I'm going to start ordering some reloading supplies and I figured that a good manual should be #1 on the list
The Lyman 50th just came out, and it has many loads for both cast and jacketed bullets. I highly recommend it. I have three Lyman manuals, starting with their 1971 edition. I don't have #50 yet, but I will. Another that I like is the Hodgdon's manual, and the Speer manual, especially an older one. In the older manual they give you loads for reduced plinking loads, which are effective and fun.

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Old August 5th, 2016, 04:54 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Behindalines View Post
The 45-70 can be loaded with many powders. I have loads with IMR3031,IMR4895,RL7 and so forth.I Load everything on single stage press.
If you want a fun load for the range,get some soft cast 405gr lead bullets and load with 13.0-14.0 gr of Unique.Good shootin.
Just as a point of safety, if you are going to load reduced loads of pistol powders in such a large case, it would be wise to use some sort of buffer or wad to keep the powder around the bottom of the case in order to avoid hangfires and inconsistent ignition.

I use poly fiber fill, which is available at Jo Ann fabrics. A few whisps of that pushed down onto the powder works like a champ. Another option is a plastic/foam wad. Use an unprimed cartridge case which has had the case mouth chamfered as your cutter, and a cleaned plastic/foam meat tray from your steak for your wad material. Cut the wads and pick them out of the cartridge case with a paper clip or push them out of the case mouth using a metal rod through the primer flash hole if necessary. Push the foam on top of the powder with a pencil eraser and it will hold the powder in place. Both the foam and the fiber fill will burn after ignition with no ill effects to the barrel etc.

Go to Paco Kelly's website, www.leverguns.com and look for the article on reduced loads. He gives a wealth of information on everything levergun, including handloading.

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Old August 5th, 2016, 05:12 AM   #84
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Please don't load pistol powder in the 45-70 case!!!! It isn't necessary to do that for "light loads". Use IMR-4198, I've used loads with as little as 26gr's and it is a powder puff to shoot....IMR-4198 is NOT position sensitive and will do what you need. Some folks use a piece of cigarette paper as a "wad" but I haven't found it necessary with that powder. The 45-70 doesn't kick THAT hard unless you are loading it hot with a heavy bullet. You can get cast bullets under 300gr that are a lot of fun to shoot!

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Old August 6th, 2016, 04:22 PM   #85
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Great Caliber

Hello all. I'm new to the forum and would like to contribute since I was in MedVed11's position at one time and these forums were a huge help to me.

I have owned a Marlin 1895 SBL since 2010. It is and excellent gun. I had these same questions as you at first and got all the answers from books and forums like this.

The .45-70 Gov't is a timeless cartridge capable of taking any game animal in the world. I have read that the US Army used it in the 1800's because it would kill horses at 600 yards.

Buffalo Bore makes cartridges in the 500-550 grain weight range, but I don't need those for anything I'm shooting at.

As far as normal factory loads, I echo the endorsement of the 325 grain Hornady LeverEvolution rounds. That is my favorite and my most accurate. I was on the paper at 200 yards with those which is excellent considering mine is a 100-150 yard gun. I also have had excellent luck with Remington 405 grain loads. Winchester 300 grain loads were ok and would be decent for deer, but are not nearly as good as the Hornady.

Definately check function, stock fit, the magazine tube, and the sight alignment on the "Remlin" guide gun. I have read that sights were oriented slightly off from the 12 o'clock position.

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Old August 6th, 2016, 06:48 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Mike7.62 View Post
The Lyman 50th just came out, and it has many loads for both cast and jacketed bullets. I highly recommend it. I have three Lyman manuals, starting with their 1971 edition. I don't have #50 yet, but I will. Another that I like is the Hodgdon's manual, and the Speer manual, especially an older one. In the older manual they give you loads for reduced plinking loads, which are effective and fun.
I have the same manuals from the '70's. The newer ones while having newer powders listed, seem to be a bit more conservative with the older powders. -Lloyd

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Old August 7th, 2016, 12:02 PM   #87
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Thanks for the tips - I'll definitely look out for the things that you mention when I go to pick up my rifle.

I actually ordered some LeverEvo ammo online last night to try it out and picked up a box of Privi Partisan 405 grain at the gun shop today so that I'd have something on hand to head to the range with.



Quote:
Originally Posted by HudsonHowitzer775 View Post
Hello all. I'm new to the forum and would like to contribute since I was in MedVed11's position at one time and these forums were a huge help to me.

I have owned a Marlin 1895 SBL since 2010. It is and excellent gun. I had these same questions as you at first and got all the answers from books and forums like this.

The .45-70 Gov't is a timeless cartridge capable of taking any game animal in the world. I have read that the US Army used it in the 1800's because it would kill horses at 600 yards.

Buffalo Bore makes cartridges in the 500-550 grain weight range, but I don't need those for anything I'm shooting at.

As far as normal factory loads, I echo the endorsement of the 325 grain Hornady LeverEvolution rounds. That is my favorite and my most accurate. I was on the paper at 200 yards with those which is excellent considering mine is a 100-150 yard gun. I also have had excellent luck with Remington 405 grain loads. Winchester 300 grain loads were ok and would be decent for deer, but are not nearly as good as the Hornady.

Definately check function, stock fit, the magazine tube, and the sight alignment on the "Remlin" guide gun. I have read that sights were oriented slightly off from the 12 o'clock position.

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Old August 7th, 2016, 02:56 PM   #88
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I have the same manuals from the '70's. The newer ones while having newer powders listed, seem to be a bit more conservative with the older powders. -Lloyd
Agree. I think that it comes from switching from the older copper crusher pressure devices to the newer piezo electric ones. It gives more accurate readings.

That said, I like the older manuals because it has information that the newer ones do not, like reduced loads for rifles and older cast bullets whose designs are not being offered today-and which I still have-and for older cartridges such as .25-20, .32-20, .348 WCF, etc. that I shoot.

Even the newer manuals of the same company such as the Lyman or the Speer have dropped information over the years. It's nice to have a ready source of older information.

If you want some really scary info, look at P.O. Ackley's book. I'd back off a serious amount from what was given in that one.

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Old August 7th, 2016, 03:32 PM   #89
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JM proof barrel will probably hold it's value better. I'd try and buy one made before 2009, or so. The Remlins have had problems.

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Old August 11th, 2016, 02:11 PM   #90
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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

I just picked up my 45-70 (GBL) from my FFL. Everything looks good in terms of the sights, action, and furniture. I just called Marlin with the serial number and was told that the rifle was built in April 2016. I'll post some pictures when I can get some decent light.

I'm going to field strip it tomorrow after work for its first cleaning and then head to the range on Saturday


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