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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

This is a discussion on Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy? within the Lever Action forums, part of the Gun Forum category; Marlin SBL 1895 (Remlin) I have owned my 45-70 now about five years. I have ghost ring sights and a Leupold 2-7 with quick detach ...


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Old July 22nd, 2016, 09:04 PM   #31
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Marlin SBL 1895 (Remlin)

I have owned my 45-70 now about five years. I have ghost ring sights and a Leupold 2-7 with quick detach rings. Mine had barrel droop which took a bit to figure out. Now, it is terribly accurate out to 250 yards. I don't shoot it for accuracy past that point yet. My hunting load is a Swift A-Frame 350 FP running at right near 2,000 FPS. My vehicle stopper is a 550gr Crater bullet running at 1,500 FPS.

Get a couple of 45-70 snap caps and try the action out before you buy the gun.

The only way you will know if you have barrel droop is when you try to sight in a scope.

I have a lot of 45-70 load data so let me know if you want some.












Two different loads at 100 yards.





525gr Pile Driver bullets



Don't hit your target frame with 525gr Pile Drivers! They cut like a butter knife.





Quick release rings


















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Old July 22nd, 2016, 10:51 PM   #32
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Nice elk!!! Congratulations. Bet that was good eating. -Lloyd

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Old July 23rd, 2016, 02:45 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by nSquid View Post
Just exactly when Remington's production settled down and became 'dependable' is another date not at my fingertips. I'm going to do my research and write down this info to go in the wallet for the next gun show.
The business deal was in 2007 I believe. Marlin employees still assembled the rifles, JM stamped and all in the CT location through 2008. In 2009 the production was moved to Ilion, NY. Most of the Marlin employees did not make the move with the proprietary equipment so all the production knowledge was lost.

Run screaming from any rifle with a 2009-2012 production date. 2013-2014 be extremely cautious. 2015-2016 there are some very fine rifles out there. My own is a fantastic piece that I've got a very experienced gunsmith working on now for some custom options. His take after opening up my rifle was "well maybe Remington finally started to figure things out."

A good condition, little used JM stamped version of this gun would cost double the price quoted above.

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Old July 23rd, 2016, 07:21 AM   #34
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The business deal was in 2007 I believe. Marlin employees still assembled the rifles, JM stamped and all in the CT location through 2008. In 2009 the production was moved to Ilion, NY. Most of the Marlin employees did not make the move with the proprietary equipment so all the production knowledge was lost.

Run screaming from any rifle with a 2009-2012 production date. 2013-2014 be extremely cautious. 2015-2016 there are some very fine rifles out there. My own is a fantastic piece that I've got a very experienced gunsmith working on now for some custom options. His take after opening up my rifle was "well maybe Remington finally started to figure things out."

A good condition, little used JM stamped version of this gun would cost double the price quoted above.

The above comment is spot on. I own several JM Marlins and they are gems. The SBL 45-70 was the first Marlin I bought and that is how I learned about Remlins.

The elk is still feeding us. I did run out of jerky and sausage but the steaks keep well in the freezer and they cook up very nicely on my grill.

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Old July 23rd, 2016, 09:18 AM   #35
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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

Here's a new wrinkle that I'd like some opinions on...

While talking to my FFL on the phone just now about the 45-70, he mentioned that I may want to consider a 44 Mag over the Guide Gun if all I'm going to do is target shot and plink with gun. His rationale being that it's still a decent caliber but the ammo is considerably less expensive.

What do you guys think? From what I've read the 44 is still a relatively easy cartridge to hand load.


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Old July 23rd, 2016, 09:54 AM   #36
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Here's a new wrinkle that I'd like some opinions on...

While talking to my FFL on the phone just now about the 45-70, he mentioned that I may want to consider a 44 Mag over the Guide Gun if all I'm going to do is target shot and plink with gun. His rationale being that it's still a decent caliber but the ammo is considerably less expensive.

What do you guys think? From what I've read the 44 is still a relatively easy cartridge to hand load.


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I believe the 44 Mag is easier to load than a 45-70. Both will need a slight crimp. The 44 will be much more fun to shoot if you are just plinking and using it for self defense. The 44 Mag has plenty of whoop, just not as much whoop as the 45-70. I have two Marlin 44 Mag rifles and two handguns. Nothing bad to say about the 44 Mag. Also, the 44 Mag can be loaded with 44 Special rounds for even softer shooting.

All good.

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Old July 23rd, 2016, 09:59 AM   #37
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Here is one of my favorites.

JM Marlin 1894P 44 Mag

P is for ported. This is a short barrel 44 Mag that is extremely fun to shoot.




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Old July 23rd, 2016, 11:38 AM   #38
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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

I ended up deciding to go with s 44 magnum and placed an order for one today.

Okay - On whim , I came home with a 336 30-30 while I wait for the 44 mag to show up (because I didn't want to leave empty handed) and I've got an issue that I need some help with

I field stripped it but can't seem to get the lever back in

I've got the extractor in and bolt half way in; however, I can't seem to get the lever back in so it will cycle the action. What could I be doing wrong? Could it be that the hammer got pulled to far back and something is now blocking the lever?

The safety is on and the bolt is half way into the receiver



The hammer is all the way back in the fire position so that I could get the bolt back in





I can't get the lever to seat properly here:




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Old July 23rd, 2016, 11:53 AM   #39
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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

Looking at this again it looks like this (the safety block?) may be preventing the lever from seating properly. If I remove the bolt and turn the rifle upside down, it falls away and I can wiggle the lever into place. With the bolt in, that piece is held rigidly in place

What do I need to do here?

Any help is appreciated. I'm going to step away from the bench for a bit because I'm getting frustrated and don't want to make this worse.

I've got to have done something wrong after watching a few YouTubes because their levers seem to sit down properly with just a little wiggling to line up the screw holes and cycle the bolt.



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Old July 23rd, 2016, 02:39 PM   #40
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First, make sure the ejector is fully seated in place and riding in the bolt groove.

Then, my bet is that the hammer is putting slight pressure on the bolt from the bottom, pushing it out of alignment.

Try holding the hammer down while inserting the bolt.


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Old July 23rd, 2016, 03:03 PM   #41
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First, make sure the ejector is fully seated in place and riding in the bolt groove.

Then, my bet is that the hammer is putting slight pressure on the bolt from the bottom, pushing it out of alignment.

Try holding the hammer down while inserting the bolt.


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Thanks - the bolt actually slides in fine. The issue that I'm having is with getting the lever properly positioned so that it will click into the receiver properly. If you look at the last picture that I posted, you'll see the block that seems to be preventing the lever from seating properly. If I pull out the bolt and tilt the gun over that piece will recede into the receiver and I can get the lever into position.

I'm really stumped as to what I'm doing wrong. Let me know if there are any other angles that I can take pictures of


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Old July 23rd, 2016, 04:05 PM   #42
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If you press on the back of the bolt while trying to close the action will it seat all the way?

That part you identified is the locking bolt. Apparently there is a timing issue with the locking bolt that could cause this and require some filing/grinding/polishing on the front edge.

Check out this forum thread where a former employee at Marlin chimes in.

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/45...t-close-2.html


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Old July 23rd, 2016, 04:30 PM   #43
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If you press on the back of the bolt while trying to close the action will it seat all the way?

That part you identified is the locking bolt. Apparently there is a timing issue with the locking bolt that could cause this and require some filing/grinding/polishing on the front edge.

Check out this forum thread where a former employee at Marlin chimes in.

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/45...t-close-2.html


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Thanks - I'll check it out when I get home. I was getting really frustrated and decided to take a break and hop into the car and take a drive down to the shore


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Old July 23rd, 2016, 07:52 PM   #44
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Marlin 45-70 - What Do I need to Know Before I Buy?

Success! I got the lever seated properly.

My issue turned out to be user error in terms of getting the lever fully seated into the slot in the bolt. Once I figured that out (there is no specific mention in the manual about the slot) and gave the lever a couple of firm wiggles, it fell into place and the lever clicked in.

I'm going to head to the range tomorrow and try it out. I should have the 44 magnum in about a week (I have feeling that I may still get the 45-70 at some point down the road).


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Last edited by Medved11; July 23rd, 2016 at 08:04 PM.
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Old July 23rd, 2016, 08:39 PM   #45
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Sorry I was late to this conversation. It appears you figured it out. You want to start the bolt in about 3/4 of the way then tip the lever end right up into the bolt slot. and close the whole deal and line up the screw.

If you decide to take apart the action more make sure to purchase gunsmith screwdrivers that are hollow ground so you don't bugger up the screws.

For my Marlins I really like the Wild West Guns Happy Trigger Kit and Bear Proof Extractor. Top is the factory two piece trigger (wiggle)and bottom is the WWG Happy Trigger (no wiggle).

Also, do me a favor and take a picture of the left side of where the barrel meets the receiver. Let's see if this 30-30 is a JM.



This is what a JM stamp can look like.



Here is a clearer JM stamp.



Regards.

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