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1911 Slide lock Pin

This is a discussion on 1911 Slide lock Pin within the Handguns forums, part of the Gun Forum category; Originally Posted by Capona Yeah, it's " fish on" Reel him in. I woukd liket to run hollow points so anything that makes that reliable ...


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Old February 25th, 2017, 06:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capona View Post
Yeah, it's " fish on"
Reel him in.

I woukd liket to run hollow points so anything that makes that reliable feeding I would want to do.
Maybe polishing the feed ramp?
I'd be really surprised if your pistol wasn't machined for hollow points right from the factory. Speaking seriously, I'd keep the dremel off the feed ramp. Just your finger, some 600, 800, 1,000 grit paper ought to do just fine. Then some Flitz on a buffing pad with the dremel. Learn patience grass hopper!

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Old February 25th, 2017, 07:09 PM   #17
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I have not heard of this Logman thing so looked it up, interesting. I don't see where it would hurt anything but I have no problem with the 4 1911's I have getting the stop in without use of tools and issues as some on that other forum reported. Think I will leave mine alone.
Some go in easy and some are hard and stiff, this make the harder one easier. So count your blessings you have easy ones.



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Phil, I think we've released a monster on that new 1911. Should we tell him how careful he needs to be on the feed ramp with his dremel?
I do mine just so there done and others see that its done than they ooohhh and aaahhhh, I use a felt/flannel bullet tip and the white polishing rouge that's normally use by the truckers too polish Aluminum fuel tanks. This way I'm not removing any material from the feed ramp and changing the angle, keep the tip moving so the ramp stays smooth no low spots and its good too go. Comes out looking like chrome, but after a few months it tones down.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Capona View Post
Yeah, it's " fish on"
Reel him in.

I woukd liket to run hollow points so anything that makes that reliable feeding I would want to do.
Maybe polishing the feed ramp?
There is more too just polishing the feed ramp that makes a 1911 reliable. There is a often overlooked area. Take a picture of the barrels throat then we will tell you if polishing will help.

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Old February 25th, 2017, 09:06 PM   #18
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Just put together another 1911 here in CO. Used a Auto Ordnance frame and an early SAI 1911 slide assembly and some Swenson parts. Shoots very well even with the microscopic USGI sights.

Just put a grip frame that places a picatinny rail for a white light. Jury's still out on it though.

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Old February 25th, 2017, 09:09 PM   #19
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Feed ramp looks polished but the strait ions run horizontal and seems like they should be vertical in the direction of the feed .


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Originally Posted by Phil McGrath View Post
Some go in easy and some are hard and stiff, this make the harder one easier. So count your blessings you have easy ones.


And here is the barrel.







I do mine just so there done and others see that its done than they ooohhh and aaahhhh, I use a felt/flannel bullet tip and the white polishing rouge that's normally use by the truckers too polish Aluminum fuel tanks. This way I'm not removing any material from the feed ramp and changing the angle, keep the tip moving so the ramp stays smooth no low spots and its good too go. Comes out looking like chrome, but after a few months it tones down.





There is more too just polishing the feed ramp that makes a 1911 reliable. There is a often overlooked area. Take a picture of the barrels throat then we will tell you if polishing will help.

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Old February 26th, 2017, 07:02 AM   #20
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When I work on a feed ramp I want all the "horizontal" lines to disappear. I don't remember ever seeing vertical lines probably because of the tooling used to cut the ramp. I agree with Phil, you don't want to take any metal off if possible. But you have to take some. I don't use a dremel for this because you can do more harm than good if you don't work it right. It's kind of like using a big buffer to wax a car, you've got to keep it moving to keep from burning the paint and keep it off sharp edges altogether. I'm not in a hurry so I use my finger and paper. As for a polished feed ramp, when you can see yourself to shave I call it good. Phil doesn't go this far but he's not as handsome as I am

Your barrel does not have a relief cut for hollow points at the 6:00 position. I'm surprised! I'll try to find a photo for you so you can see what I'm talking about.

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Old February 26th, 2017, 07:56 AM   #21
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Two photos for you. One is to show you a mod where the frame is cut for a barrel that has it's own ramp vs a regular barrel. The photo with five barrels the first two are 1911's. You can compare GI vs modern. Your barrel has been been throated but without the extra cut Colt is using now. The barrel throat and ramp I put a high polish on. Hope this helps you.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fivebarrels_zpsb09f9b62.jpg (54.8 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg Ramped vs Standard.jpg (35.7 KB, 8 views)

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Old February 26th, 2017, 10:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Hat View Post
Two photos for you. One is to show you a mod where the frame is cut for a barrel that has it's own ramp vs a regular barrel. The photo with five barrels the first two are 1911's. You can compare GI vs modern. Your barrel has been been throated but without the extra cut Colt is using now. The barrel throat and ramp I put a high polish on. Hope this helps you.
Thanks HH,

I'll put a polish on the ramp and throat manually , no dremel.

The barrel with attached ramp is interesting, it's like a Cz.
When you have that attached ramp, does the barrel still come out of the front frame?

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Old February 26th, 2017, 11:07 AM   #23
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Thanks HH,

I'll put a polish on the ramp and throat manually , no dremel.

The barrel with attached ramp is interesting, it's like a Cz.
When you have that attached ramp, does the barrel still come out of the front frame?
Sorry Capona, I've never see a ramped barrel outside of photos. I wouldn't use one except on a frame that it could save from someone screwing up the ramp. Other than that I just don't see a need for one. I just wanted you to be aware of the option. If Phil comes along may be he can be of more help.

As for your barrel I think it should feed hollow points but it is cut different than a Colt. While you're polishing up the feed ramp you can slick up the barrel with some Flitz and a buffer where it's been throated. I don't think a dremel and buffing pad could hurt anything. But I have seen some ramps really torn up by a dremel with an ignorant person operating it. It's easy to take off metal but you can't put it back on.

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Old February 26th, 2017, 11:17 AM   #24
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Don't round off the sharp edge at the top of the feed ramp, not even a little bit. That will cause failures to feed and there's no way to put the metal back.

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Old February 26th, 2017, 11:40 AM   #25
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If it ain't broke don't fix it. Shooting it will polish it to perfection.
My 2 cents


Last edited by Wasted ammo; February 26th, 2017 at 01:46 PM.
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Old February 26th, 2017, 02:56 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 2336USMC View Post
Don't round off the sharp edge at the top of the feed ramp, not even a little bit. That will cause failures to feed and there's no way to put the metal back.
Actually there is but it needs a gunsmith:

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/st.../instructions/

Or you could be lazy and just replace the frame

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Old February 26th, 2017, 03:20 PM   #27
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I'll pick up some white polishing rouge and just polish the ramp and breach by hand.


Quote:
Originally Posted by High Hat View Post
When I work on a feed ramp I want all the "horizontal" lines to disappear. I don't remember ever seeing vertical lines probably because of the tooling used to cut the ramp. I agree with Phil, you don't want to take any metal off if possible. But you have to take some. I don't use a dremel for this because you can do more harm than good if you don't work it right. It's kind of like using a big buffer to wax a car, you've got to keep it moving to keep from burning the paint and keep it off sharp edges altogether. I'm not in a hurry so I use my finger and paper. As for a polished feed ramp, when you can see yourself to shave I call it good. Phil doesn't go this far but he's not as handsome as I am

Your barrel does not have a relief cut for hollow points at the 6:00 position. I'm surprised! I'll try to find a photo for you so you can see what I'm talking about.

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Old February 26th, 2017, 03:25 PM   #28
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Actually there is but it needs a gunsmith:

http://www.egwguns.com/1911-parts/st.../instructions/

Or you could be lazy and just replace the frame
Roger that, I am aware of that item but that's a nuclear option. You can't just weld on a bead and reshape either, the frame is hardened and the heat would -unharden- it...

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Old February 26th, 2017, 03:40 PM   #29
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I still don't understand what wrong with Caps feed ramp? Maybe I missed that post.

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Old February 26th, 2017, 04:19 PM   #30
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I still don't understand what wrong with Caps feed ramp? Maybe I missed that post.
He just wants it slicked up to a mirror surface. It actually won't take that long to do it by hand. The machine marks really aren't that deep looking at the photo.

Capona could use it just the way it is but then he wouldn't be a real 1911 owner. We just gotta tinker and it's a lot of fun!

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