This is a discussion on Springer 1911 not cycling properly within the Handguns forums, part of the Gun Forum category; Last trip to the range she would fire, eject casing and begin to chamber next round but just about every time the slide would stop ...
Last trip to the range she would fire, eject casing and begin to chamber next round but just about every time the slide would stop about an inch short of full return. I'm sorry I don't have the proper vocab for all of this, still attempting to load the pics. Advice? Thx in advance.
Every round through that pistol has been Winchester or Federal, courtesy of my local Wally world. She is pampered like no other. Always cleaned and well lubed. Once a month if I haven't shot her. I'd like to think I have not limp wristed her as I am a 6' 4" 300 lb guy that usually tends to over muscle my shots and hit to the left. Guess a new spring is worth my first try. Been wanting a Wilson 1 piece guide rod anyway. Still cheaper than a trip to a smith.... hope it works.
However, have you changed any parts in it and especially something like the barrel link or something like a "one piece guide rod?"
Very often, extractors need to be tuned by reshaping the claw area slightly and bending the extractor to give enough, but not too much tension. This last would normally not be a problem when you have fired so many of the same type ammo before, though.
Mine had 3-point jams until 1500 rounds or so. It's got about 5k now and it runs like a top. I tried different recoil springs, lubing polishing the feed ramp and nothing worked until I got lots of rounds through it.
It's an all-stainless 1911 though and had very tight tolerances.
What you are describing is a FTRB "failure to return to battery".
It's conceivable that a dirty, very tight chamber could be the problem but I doubt it.
Have you changed the slide stop?
My Springfield Custom Shop 1911 had FTRB problems that didn't resolve themselves even after over 250 rounds. Turned out that the lower barrel lugs had been left a tiny bit long so it took a lot of energy to get them to move the last little bit over the slide stop. It's unlikely that is your problem, but take a look at the upper barrel lugs and the lower barrel lugs just ahead of the barrel link. Do you see any "flanging" or unusual wear? This would be highly unlikely with a regular production 1911 but a deliberately tight pistol might demonstrate these symptoms. Also, changing to a slightly thicker diameter slide stop might do the same thing.
It is a bone stock PX9109LP "Loaded" parked model. Not a single thing upgraded or changed out. She has always run without a single problem till this last trip. On duty tomorrow, but Thursday or Friday I can head downtown to my favorite parts place for a new recoil spring. Ill let y'all know how that pans out. Thx for all the tips!
Quick follow up.... new Wolff 18# recoil spring installed today. Hand cycles fine and goes right into full battery. 18# feels awful stiff, I may get a 16# spring when I order the Wilson one piece guide. The old spring was more than a half inch shorter than the new spring!!