There seems to be more questions on this lately, so I thought I would do a thread on it.
Let's get the more obvious out of the way first.
If you are not familiar with the Garand, then go online and find both of these manuals you can DOWNLOAD for free as they are all over the internet, "FM 23-5, U.S. Rifle Caliber .30, M1" and "TM 9-1005-222-12, Operator and Organizational Maintenance Manual Including Repair Parts and Special Tools List / Rifle, Caliber .30 M1 / Rifle, Caliber .30 M1C (Sniper's) / Rifle, Caliber .30 M1D (Sniper's) / M-1 Garand." READ and STUDY them and most of your questions will be answered.
1. CLEANING. If your M1 comes with grease all over it and inside the barrel, the first thing you have to do is clean off all the excess grease. Something that is HIGHLY important with these rifles is to clean the CHAMBER AFTER EVERY TIME YOU FIRE IT or you will get malfunctions. Matter of fact, if you DON'T clean the chamber properly - then pits will develop in the chamber and that will cause malfunctions and you will have to pay to replace the barrel much sooner. You really need one of the military ratchet style chamber brushes and at least one cleaing rod section to scrub and clean the chamber.
2. LUBRICATION. The Garand was MEANT to be lubricated with grease and originally that was Plasitlube. Any good gun grease will work and you can even use wheel bearing grease as long as it does not have the fibers in it. Yes, I know the FM and TM say you can use oil and I would use that if there was absolutey no way to get grease, but that's the only time I would use oil as a lubricant. The manuals show you where to grease the rifle.
3. AMMUNITION. The M1 requires ammo that is set up at a certain range of pressure to operate the rifle correctly, so just any old .30-06 Ammo may or will not function correctly and modern hunting loads are TOO HIGH OF PRESSURE to use without modifiying the rifle. The Civilian Marskmanship Program sells surplus ammo that will work well in most Garands. You can also use Federal American Eagle or Winchester USA 147 grain FMJ ammo. I have used Remington's paramilitary .30-06 ammo in a pinch, but I don't recommend it as the accuracy and sometimes functioning is not always there. IF YOU ARE USING HANDLOADS OR RELOADS - the ammo may well be the problem as well as some cheap imported surplus. You want to use GOOD and PROPER ammo to ensure a malfunction is not caused by the ammunition!!!!
Now, FOR GOD'S SAKE, if you are having a problem seating ammo or it seems to kick too much or if the cases are coming out cracked or with obvious problems like dents behind the neck - on the case shoulder THEN STOP SHOOTING THAT AMMO!!! It could be an ammo problem OR it could be a Headspace problem and THAT'S when you need to get the rifle to a qualified Armorer or Gunsmith. It is completely normal for the case mouth to be dented because it often hits the op rod during ejection and it is also completely normal for the extractor to ding up the rim of the case, though.
4. CLIPS. Technically called an "En-bloc" clip, but most people have always said clips. You NEED GOOD CLIPS or even a perfect M1 may not function correctly. Some of the clips that come with CMP ammo WILL NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY. If you find a clip doesn't work right, then throw it away as you can't repair them. This is one time that new made clips are as good, if not better than old worn out G.I. clips. You can buy GOOD clips from Bill Ricca and Orion 7 to name a couple of places. Even a perfect M1 with correct ammo will not function correctly with BAD clips!
NOW FOLKS, a HUGE number of problems with M1 Garands is DIRECTLY traceable to NOT following the basics. So go over this first before you start looking at the rifle for problems.
OK, to stay with the most basic stuff first the next thing we have to check is the STOCK. Worn stocks will cause more functioning problems than you can possibly imagine. Here are the most basic stock problems I've seen with BOTH old and new stocks.
1. The receiver is loose front to back in the stock. This WILL cause malfunctions as the receiver bounces around in the stock during recoil and does not have a secure position. The force of the gas is lost to making the operating rod work because the receiver is bouncing around. Even a perfect barreled receiver assembly and trigger mechanism will not work correctly when the stock is loose.
To test for this: Take the firing mechanism out of the stock and lay it aside. Turn the barreled receiver assembly and stock upside down on your bench. If you are right handed, grab the gas cylinder with your left hand and the grip of the stock with your right hand. Now try to pull apart your hands and push them together to FEEL for looseness of the receiver in the stock. A TINY LITTLE bit of movement was normal in well used G.I. stocks, but if it moves 1/16" or more, it will definitely cause accuracy and function problems. To correct it, you either have to glass bed the stock or replace it.
2. There is no or almost no tension when you lock the trigger guard down. This will cause the trigger guard to pop open during firing OR may even cause other malfunctions. To correct it you can glue shims to the stock or glass bed it.
3. The tail of the Clip Latch hits the stock. Yup, even see this commonly with new stocks. You will usually notice a small flat indentation on top of the clearance cut for the tail of the clip latch. The fix is easy, just gently carve away the indentation and the clip latch will work correctly. THIS WILL CAUSE malfunctions if not cleared away.
4. The distance from the top of the stock (under the receiver heel) to the two small bedding pads for the rear of the trigger housing is TOO FAR. This is almost never a problem with a G.I. stock UNLESS it has been improperly glass bedded. However, it used to be a VERY common problem with new commericial stocks. The distance is supposed to be 1.725" when new down to 1.700" when worn and maybe slightly less than that. You measure it using a dial caliper inside the stock. If it is GREATER than 1.725, then the rifle can GO FULL AUTO because the trigger housing is too far down from the bolt and the sear won't catch. If the distance is too far, you just pare/cut/file the two small bedding pads upward until the distance is correct.
5. The Op Rod rubs hard in the stock. Again, almost never a problem with a G.I. stock, but often found with commercial stocks. You scrape, file or sand the stock until the rubs are gone.
6. The Receiver Heel rubs the stock in the wrong spot. The receiver heel is supposed to contact the stock from the very rear end going 1" to 1 1/8" forward. THEN there is no be NO conact on the stock going forward to the rear of the receiver legs. You only need to see light between the bottom of the receiver heel and the top of the stock, so you don't need much clearance at all. What this does is cause the receiver to be slightly bent between the forward bedding surfaces and that last 1" to 1 1/8" of the receiver heel. This is intended to force the receiver heel back down on the stock when it twists in recoil. If the receiver heel rubs hard on the stock where it is not supposed to, it will cause feeding issues and often on the fifth through 7th rounds in a clip. All you have to do to fix this is lay a file flat on top of the stock where the receiver heel is not supposed to hit and file back and forth until you have the clearance. JUST MAKE SURE you don't file the stock where the last 1" to 1 1/8" of the receiver heel is supposed to contact the stock.
SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT .308 OR 7.62MM M1 GARANDS: WAY TOO OFTEN the reason why one of these won't function is because a .078" gas port was drilled that is correct for .30-06 BUT TOO SMALL for these calibers. The U.S. Navy used a .106" gas port on 7.62mm Garands, but I have found a .096" gas port is almost always large enough for a rifle to operate correctly with either caliber. So if you have a ".308 Garand" that is not functioning, this is THE FIRST THING to check.
ONE MORE SPECIAL NOTE: If your Gas Cylinder Lock Screw is even slightly loose, that can cause the rifle not to function properly. So BEFORE you fire the rifle every time, ensure the screw is tight so something this minor doesn't mess up the rifle.
OK, this is long enough for Part I. Will continue in Part II.
Let's get the more obvious out of the way first.
If you are not familiar with the Garand, then go online and find both of these manuals you can DOWNLOAD for free as they are all over the internet, "FM 23-5, U.S. Rifle Caliber .30, M1" and "TM 9-1005-222-12, Operator and Organizational Maintenance Manual Including Repair Parts and Special Tools List / Rifle, Caliber .30 M1 / Rifle, Caliber .30 M1C (Sniper's) / Rifle, Caliber .30 M1D (Sniper's) / M-1 Garand." READ and STUDY them and most of your questions will be answered.
1. CLEANING. If your M1 comes with grease all over it and inside the barrel, the first thing you have to do is clean off all the excess grease. Something that is HIGHLY important with these rifles is to clean the CHAMBER AFTER EVERY TIME YOU FIRE IT or you will get malfunctions. Matter of fact, if you DON'T clean the chamber properly - then pits will develop in the chamber and that will cause malfunctions and you will have to pay to replace the barrel much sooner. You really need one of the military ratchet style chamber brushes and at least one cleaing rod section to scrub and clean the chamber.
2. LUBRICATION. The Garand was MEANT to be lubricated with grease and originally that was Plasitlube. Any good gun grease will work and you can even use wheel bearing grease as long as it does not have the fibers in it. Yes, I know the FM and TM say you can use oil and I would use that if there was absolutey no way to get grease, but that's the only time I would use oil as a lubricant. The manuals show you where to grease the rifle.
3. AMMUNITION. The M1 requires ammo that is set up at a certain range of pressure to operate the rifle correctly, so just any old .30-06 Ammo may or will not function correctly and modern hunting loads are TOO HIGH OF PRESSURE to use without modifiying the rifle. The Civilian Marskmanship Program sells surplus ammo that will work well in most Garands. You can also use Federal American Eagle or Winchester USA 147 grain FMJ ammo. I have used Remington's paramilitary .30-06 ammo in a pinch, but I don't recommend it as the accuracy and sometimes functioning is not always there. IF YOU ARE USING HANDLOADS OR RELOADS - the ammo may well be the problem as well as some cheap imported surplus. You want to use GOOD and PROPER ammo to ensure a malfunction is not caused by the ammunition!!!!
Now, FOR GOD'S SAKE, if you are having a problem seating ammo or it seems to kick too much or if the cases are coming out cracked or with obvious problems like dents behind the neck - on the case shoulder THEN STOP SHOOTING THAT AMMO!!! It could be an ammo problem OR it could be a Headspace problem and THAT'S when you need to get the rifle to a qualified Armorer or Gunsmith. It is completely normal for the case mouth to be dented because it often hits the op rod during ejection and it is also completely normal for the extractor to ding up the rim of the case, though.
4. CLIPS. Technically called an "En-bloc" clip, but most people have always said clips. You NEED GOOD CLIPS or even a perfect M1 may not function correctly. Some of the clips that come with CMP ammo WILL NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY. If you find a clip doesn't work right, then throw it away as you can't repair them. This is one time that new made clips are as good, if not better than old worn out G.I. clips. You can buy GOOD clips from Bill Ricca and Orion 7 to name a couple of places. Even a perfect M1 with correct ammo will not function correctly with BAD clips!
NOW FOLKS, a HUGE number of problems with M1 Garands is DIRECTLY traceable to NOT following the basics. So go over this first before you start looking at the rifle for problems.
OK, to stay with the most basic stuff first the next thing we have to check is the STOCK. Worn stocks will cause more functioning problems than you can possibly imagine. Here are the most basic stock problems I've seen with BOTH old and new stocks.
1. The receiver is loose front to back in the stock. This WILL cause malfunctions as the receiver bounces around in the stock during recoil and does not have a secure position. The force of the gas is lost to making the operating rod work because the receiver is bouncing around. Even a perfect barreled receiver assembly and trigger mechanism will not work correctly when the stock is loose.
To test for this: Take the firing mechanism out of the stock and lay it aside. Turn the barreled receiver assembly and stock upside down on your bench. If you are right handed, grab the gas cylinder with your left hand and the grip of the stock with your right hand. Now try to pull apart your hands and push them together to FEEL for looseness of the receiver in the stock. A TINY LITTLE bit of movement was normal in well used G.I. stocks, but if it moves 1/16" or more, it will definitely cause accuracy and function problems. To correct it, you either have to glass bed the stock or replace it.
2. There is no or almost no tension when you lock the trigger guard down. This will cause the trigger guard to pop open during firing OR may even cause other malfunctions. To correct it you can glue shims to the stock or glass bed it.
3. The tail of the Clip Latch hits the stock. Yup, even see this commonly with new stocks. You will usually notice a small flat indentation on top of the clearance cut for the tail of the clip latch. The fix is easy, just gently carve away the indentation and the clip latch will work correctly. THIS WILL CAUSE malfunctions if not cleared away.
4. The distance from the top of the stock (under the receiver heel) to the two small bedding pads for the rear of the trigger housing is TOO FAR. This is almost never a problem with a G.I. stock UNLESS it has been improperly glass bedded. However, it used to be a VERY common problem with new commericial stocks. The distance is supposed to be 1.725" when new down to 1.700" when worn and maybe slightly less than that. You measure it using a dial caliper inside the stock. If it is GREATER than 1.725, then the rifle can GO FULL AUTO because the trigger housing is too far down from the bolt and the sear won't catch. If the distance is too far, you just pare/cut/file the two small bedding pads upward until the distance is correct.
5. The Op Rod rubs hard in the stock. Again, almost never a problem with a G.I. stock, but often found with commercial stocks. You scrape, file or sand the stock until the rubs are gone.
6. The Receiver Heel rubs the stock in the wrong spot. The receiver heel is supposed to contact the stock from the very rear end going 1" to 1 1/8" forward. THEN there is no be NO conact on the stock going forward to the rear of the receiver legs. You only need to see light between the bottom of the receiver heel and the top of the stock, so you don't need much clearance at all. What this does is cause the receiver to be slightly bent between the forward bedding surfaces and that last 1" to 1 1/8" of the receiver heel. This is intended to force the receiver heel back down on the stock when it twists in recoil. If the receiver heel rubs hard on the stock where it is not supposed to, it will cause feeding issues and often on the fifth through 7th rounds in a clip. All you have to do to fix this is lay a file flat on top of the stock where the receiver heel is not supposed to hit and file back and forth until you have the clearance. JUST MAKE SURE you don't file the stock where the last 1" to 1 1/8" of the receiver heel is supposed to contact the stock.
SPECIAL NOTE ABOUT .308 OR 7.62MM M1 GARANDS: WAY TOO OFTEN the reason why one of these won't function is because a .078" gas port was drilled that is correct for .30-06 BUT TOO SMALL for these calibers. The U.S. Navy used a .106" gas port on 7.62mm Garands, but I have found a .096" gas port is almost always large enough for a rifle to operate correctly with either caliber. So if you have a ".308 Garand" that is not functioning, this is THE FIRST THING to check.
ONE MORE SPECIAL NOTE: If your Gas Cylinder Lock Screw is even slightly loose, that can cause the rifle not to function properly. So BEFORE you fire the rifle every time, ensure the screw is tight so something this minor doesn't mess up the rifle.
OK, this is long enough for Part I. Will continue in Part II.
