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Shimming scope base mount.

This is a discussion on Shimming scope base mount. within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Ring/base fit for some manufactures can be iffy for the Vanguard. I think they make them generic for Howa 1500 and Rem 700. From what ...


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Old February 5th, 2017, 04:59 PM   #16
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Ring/base fit for some manufactures can be iffy for the Vanguard. I think they make them generic for Howa 1500 and Rem 700. From what I know you are best off with Weatherby or Talley. You could check this out with Talley or Weatherby customer service to verify if I'm correct.

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Old February 5th, 2017, 05:05 PM   #17
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You are better off with a one piece mount like deadnutz.

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Old February 5th, 2017, 05:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray55classic View Post
Taking your time mounting a scope will eliminate the majority of potential problems .
I'm a firm believer in lapping your rings so your certain both are perfectly aligned,
however you can still get good results just by checking the little things.
Seat the scope in the rings check carefully to see if it's fully seated in both rings & rotates easily,
now put the caps on and seat them check again.
I always snug all screws in steps first seating all of them then take all up a step equally ,
until they are all tightened to specs , It's just like putting on a head gasket.
nothing gets overtorqued that way
I can't overstress ring alignment, people spend a lot of $$$ buying a nice scope and pinch pennys aligning them .
If the rings aren't aligned you just bent the tube on that nice new High Dollar scope
Aside from lapping the rings, this is exactly how I did it. I tightened each ring screw in 1/4 turn increments until snug then at 1/8 or less as required to maintain equal torque feel in a criss cross pattern. I even made sure the ring end gaps were equal on both sides as I snugged them down.

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Old February 5th, 2017, 05:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
Great info here! Thanks. Mine is the 3x9x40mm. BDC reticle. I'm only guessing at the number of clicks. Lemme splain...I came to a hard stop while going up. The stop is definite. When counting clicks from full up to full down, I got to a point where the pressure required to turn the turret began to feel quite a bit harder and this is where I stopped not wanting to possibly damage the scope. As far as the scope being faulty? I just removed it from my M1a and it was zeroed and working fine on that rifle. But, stranger things have happened to me. So armed with the info above, I should have to go 100 clicks from full up or down to be at mid elevation? I'm going to try it again.
Thanks folks.
Just don't FORCE anything. you might try running up to that point where it hardens a few times, with a little back and forth action
you may have a minor imperfection that multiple attempts with a deft touch can "wear in" ,
but again Don't force it. It's a precision optical instrument , treat it that way.
If 56 clicks is all it can do. I'd call Burris I've heard they have good customer service .

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Old February 6th, 2017, 01:35 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by ray55classic View Post
Just don't FORCE anything. you might try running up to that point where it hardens a few times, with a little back and forth action
you may have a minor imperfection that multiple attempts with a deft touch can "wear in" ,
but again Don't force it. It's a precision optical instrument , treat it that way.
If 56 clicks is all it can do. I'd call Burris I've heard they have good customer service .
After tappin keys with you folks last night, I disassembled and played with the scope. I was able to get over 200 clicks from full up to down. At about 210 clicks, I stopped turning and took it back up 105 clicks. That should have me back to zero on the elevation. I think the turret just has a tight spot because it gets tight in the same spot every revolution. The turret has had very little use. After the initial sight in on the M1a, which was quick and easy, I never had to touch it again. It's held zero for years. Burris warranty is no questions asked 100% life time repair or replace so no worries there. After thinking on this for 24 hrs now, I've decided to just send the rings back. This will help eliminate variables. If the problem still persists with the replacement rings, I will know to look else where. Either the bases or the scope.
I truly appreciate everyone jumping in last night with their thoughts and suggestions. This was the first place I came when I got back in from the field. I will also contact Burris on their site to verify my efforts to return the scope to elevation zero.
Thanks, Dave.

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Old February 6th, 2017, 02:30 PM   #21
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Burris signature z rings with posi-lign inserts may be an answer. That's if you still have an alignment problem.

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Old February 6th, 2017, 03:34 PM   #22
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Dave I believe you have found your problem, you only had 14moa of elevation thru the scope , a 1/4 of it's range,
although swapping rings can't possibly hurt a thing .
I'd recommend trying a unit like this to lap the new rings in
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/21...nd-lapping-kit .

There are other brands , including some higher priced units that are more geared to professional day in day out use,
but these will get the job done on a lifetime of rifles for you at a relatively low price . It's cheap insurance .


Last edited by ray55classic; February 6th, 2017 at 03:45 PM.
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Old February 7th, 2017, 08:03 AM   #23
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Slipping the turrets are what you do if you have exposed turrets and after you get the rifle zeroed you remove the turrets and replace them so everything reads 0. As you are adjusting sometimes, kind of rare but happens, is there will be more elevation left in the scope but the turret body is hitting the scope and you feel that resistance and think that there is no more movement in the turret.

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Old February 7th, 2017, 02:53 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wjchastain View Post
Slipping the turrets are what you do if you have exposed turrets and after you get the rifle zeroed you remove the turrets and replace them so everything reads 0. As you are adjusting sometimes, kind of rare but happens, is there will be more elevation left in the scope but the turret body is hitting the scope and you feel that resistance and think that there is no more movement in the turret.
OK, got it. After my 'counting clicks' exercise last night, I did end up at '0' on the elevation knob. That made me feel some what accomplished. As stated above, I did have a hard stop in the up direction but I never felt that after 210 clicks down. I stopped there and counted 105 back up and stopped. With a 50 moa total, I should be at elevation zero again. I have a question regarding this on the Burris site but haven't received a reply yet. The rings in question are being returned and the replacements are due in about 4 days. After I get mounted up and back to the range, I'll post back here with the results. I'm also considering having a go with a bore sighting tool. I've never needed or used one before but it could have saved me a lot of time here. Any one ever try to make a field expedient one? I'm thinking a dowel with a number line printed on a tab......why not?

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Old February 7th, 2017, 03:03 PM   #25
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I have a bore sighting tool from the early 90's paid $20 for it. It has saved me $1000 in ammo. That being said it want work on a m14 because the flashider I so long. In your case with a bolt gun I would suggest buying one. It will get you on paper at 100 yards. Mine is a cheap tasco set. If you have a steady rest you can always take the bolt out and do it old school. Larry potter field has a video on it. You look through the barrel and center the target, adjust crosshairs and shoot. The key to this is the rifle must remain completely stable.

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Old February 7th, 2017, 03:58 PM   #26
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I have done it old school before. It works well. I put a Williams peep on a .308 re-bored spanish mauser, sighted through the bore on my neighbors gas meter and then dialed it in. Only minor adjustments were needed at the range.

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Old February 7th, 2017, 04:05 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
I have done it old school before. It works well. I put a Williams peep on a .308 re-bored spanish mauser, sighted through the bore on my neighbors gas meter and then dialed it in. Only minor adjustments were needed at the range.
Lmao, try that but skip the gas meter part!

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Old February 7th, 2017, 04:23 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Wasted ammo View Post
That being said it want work on a m14 because the flashider I so long.
I bought a Bushnell Laser Boresighter to use when setting up a chronograph. I had to turn the .30 cal adapter around backwards so it would be long enough to reach through the FH.


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Old February 7th, 2017, 05:18 PM   #29
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I would take the scope of and lay a straight edge on top of the bases and see where you are at, if the front base is higher then the rear there is your problem. You can buy shim kits from Brownell's...
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod6883.aspx
Do you have bases numbers 902 and 876? these are what listed in the Warne catolog.

Casey


Last edited by Earthquake; February 7th, 2017 at 05:32 PM.
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Old February 8th, 2017, 08:29 AM   #30
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Burris Signature rings with offset inserts. If your scope has a 30mm tube you can get approximately 20MOA of adjustment. If it is a 1" tube you can get double that.

Amazon - Burris 30mm medium height rings

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