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Partial bedding?

This is a discussion on Partial bedding? within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Has anyone done a partial bedding job and seen benefits thereof? What I want to achieve is to simply get the proper barrel tension with ...


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Old January 21st, 2017, 04:19 AM   #1
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Partial bedding?

Has anyone done a partial bedding job and seen benefits thereof? What I want to achieve is to simply get the proper barrel tension with the stock and barrel band. Using pop can aluminum shims under the front of the receiver I can get about 4 lbs tension, I think it should be about 7? I have an SA Scout Squad in a walnut stock. I have relieved the hand guard and done the NM ferule mod.I have also shimmed the gas cylinder, NM guide rod, Tubb springs, 4.5 lb trigger. Still not getting the accuracy I want even with FGMM or appropriate hand loads. Not looking for match accuracy, just consistent sub 2 MOA. So rather than doing the complete bedding job with modding the metal insert and getting the tight fit common to a full bedding job, is there any benefit to be had in bedding just the top portion of the stock under the receiver to get the proper barrel tension? Has anyone tried this?

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Old January 21st, 2017, 05:20 AM   #2
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Are you firing the weapon with the shims under the receiver???

How many rounds through the barrel?

Iron or optics? If optics, what mount, rings, and scope?

Is the receiver group sloppy in the stock currently?

I'm definitely not a M1A bedding expert...but, from what I've seen here, you bed it or don't bed it. I have seen or heard nothing in between. The idea of removing material from the stock to insert bedding compound is to clear room for a solid foundation. Your also removing materials that are more compressible than the bedding materials. If I'm understanding you correctly, you want to skim bed with proper draw tension right on top of the stock. Sounds like a bad idea to me.

If you're not interested doing the bed job yourself, than send it to one of the fine fellows here that do that work professionally.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 06:39 AM   #3
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Scoped from the bench, 300-400 rounds. Burris Scout Scope in Warne QD rings on the scout mount. Yes, using shims under the front end of the receiver. The receiver is not overly loose in the walnut stock but is not tight either when the trigger groups tension is released. I would route the top of the stock contact area before applying bedding compound so that it would have some purchase, not just smear it on the unmodified stock surface. I figure if it didn't give me the results I was looking for, I could go back and do the complete bedding job easy enough with the modification of the metal insert and get complete contact as is standard.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 06:39 AM   #4
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Partial bedding

Partial bedding can improve accuracy to a limited degree, it can also make it worse. give it a try, you can always remove it.. Art

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Old January 21st, 2017, 06:58 AM   #5
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Also check how the receiver fits side-to-side in the stock. You want the draw pressure on the barrel only moving the barrel Down, and not sideways.
Look / feel for any sideways movement when you close the trigger guard.

If the receiver is a loose fit IN the stock, then maybe some stick-on metal tape might help. Or adjustment of the ferrule / band might be needed.

Jay Kosta
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Old January 21st, 2017, 06:59 AM   #6
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Many barrels don't like having a pound of metal and glass strapped to them. How does it shoot with irons or a receiver mounted scope?

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Old January 21st, 2017, 06:59 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by art luppino View Post
Partial bedding can improve accuracy to a limited degree, it can also make it worse. give it a try, you can always remove it.. Art
Art, are you suggesting not routing the top surface of the stock before applying bedding compound, or routing that area first? Assuming a full bedding job is not being done.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 07:10 AM   #8
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I have shims in the front of my Loaded receiver, to achieve better draw pressure, and did all of the other mods you mentioned.

I get 1.5 MOA, with Federal AE 168 gr OTM.

2 MOA - 2.5 MOA, with FGGM.

My novice 2 cents would be, put the shims in, get the draw pressure you want, get some AE OTM, and shoot.

Lots of good reports on that ammo on the forum.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 07:27 AM   #9
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Jay, no side play with the receiver clamped down by the trigger group, ferrule is not loose on the wood, NM modified. Shimmed GC and barrel band make contact with the bottom center of ferrule. With pop can shims under front of receiver, I get about 4lbs barrel tension. I determined this by placing a "sticky note" piece of paper between the contact points of the band and ferrule. I then used a Lyman electronic trigger gauge to pull down on the barrel while gently tugging on the entrapped paper. The paper pulled free at about 4 lbs. downward pull on the barrel.
Kurt, I bought the Scout Squad specifically to use the Scout scope. I realize things clamped to barrels can change harmonics and adversely affect accuracy. I don't want to use a receiver mount and lose the Scout scope functionality. I know there are some handguard forward mount combos, but aren't they also bolted to the barrel? As far as iron sight accuracy, it certainly is not better, but I haven't done that much work with the irons.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 07:35 AM   #10
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John Wolf does a service called alignment bedding. It is used to center the action in the stock and provide correct barrel band tension. He firmly believes that it provides a worth while improvement without some of the negatives of a full bedding job.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 07:51 AM   #11
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John Wolf does a service called alignment bedding. It is used to center the action in the stock and provide correct barrel band tension. He firmly believes that it provides a worth while improvement without some of the negatives of a full bedding job.
This sounds exactly what I want to achieve. I have the bedding fixtures already inbound from Brownells and will probably give something like this a shot first before resorting to a full bedding job. Hopefully not bubba it up!

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Old January 21st, 2017, 07:52 AM   #12
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Partial bedding,

Quote:
Originally Posted by nortac View Post
Art, are you suggesting not routing the top surface of the stock before applying bedding compound, or routing that area first? Assuming a full bedding job is not being done.

Nortac,

If you are trying to increase front end draw pressure between the ferrule and front band you have to have a method to hold the barrel above the position it is now in while bedding the receiver..

You do not need to route, rough up the area the bedding is applied to first..

The one other thiing you also have to do is bed the heel of the receiver at the same time, so it sits flush to a new angle of the receiver..

This is NOT a reccommended procedure, but can improve accuracy for a time shorter then a full bedding job.

Don't over look an incorrect beding job can give very poor results. Adding a little J B Weld material under the front part of the rec. rails and heel is easy to remove if you fail...

Be brave, no risk no reward.... Art

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Old January 21st, 2017, 08:10 AM   #13
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I had a stock done with the alignment bedding by John, it was supposed to be a full bedding job. It shot well enough that I did not send it back for the full bedding job. What my experience was, it provided what was described. The bedding consisted of the top of the stock and the sides of the receiver in front of the legs being bedded as well as the front of the receiver around the connector area. Hope this info helps.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 08:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by art luppino View Post
Nortac,

If you are trying to increase front end draw pressure between the ferrule and front band you have to have a method to hold the barrel above the position it is now in while bedding the receiver..

You do not need to route, rough up the area the bedding is applied to first..

The one other thiing you also have to do is bed the heel of the receiver at the same time, so it sits flush to a new angle of the receiver..

This is NOT a reccommended procedure, but can improve accuracy for a time shorter then a full bedding job.

Don't over look an incorrect beding job can give very poor results. Adding a little J B Weld material under the front part of the rec. rails and heel is easy to remove if you fail...

Be brave, no risk no reward.... Art
Good advise.

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Old January 21st, 2017, 12:11 PM   #15
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I think partial bedding can work OK for maybe a thousand rounds if you are lucky. It may or may not improve accuracy, but probably will to a degree. If you want the bedding to last and accuracy to be consistent, do it right and do it right the first time. It will save you a lot of consternation (and money) later.

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