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Good test material for parkerizing?

This is a discussion on Good test material for parkerizing? within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the M14 M1A Forum category; Bought a quart of Lauer's park solution and want to learn about parkerizing on something dispensable first. I have read that different steels give different ...


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Old January 12th, 2017, 07:31 PM   #1
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Good test material for parkerizing?

Bought a quart of Lauer's park solution and want to learn about parkerizing on something dispensable first. I have read that different steels give different colors of park and I don't want any surprises when I put the valuable parts in the soup.

What grade of bolts/washers etc. can I pick up at lowes or wallyworld that will give me similar results as the wd-8620 steel used in WWII?

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Old January 12th, 2017, 07:33 PM   #2
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bare steel only,no plated
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...homerun_portal

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Old January 12th, 2017, 07:38 PM   #3
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bare steel only,no plated
So just about any bolt or washer that is not stainless or plated will give me the same color result as the old time chrome-moly steel?

I am going to wait on parking anything valuable until I do a bit of testing.

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Old January 12th, 2017, 07:52 PM   #4
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Old January 12th, 2017, 07:54 PM   #5
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HD,

Get yourself a couple packs of steel wool. Wash the steel wool to remove any of the oils used to keep it from rusting(paint thinner,lacquer thinner). Have your park solution mixed up heat to temp(just to boiling point)put in steel wool to season the park solution before doing any park. The do small parts hammers,trig&hammer pins,trig guards,butt plates,screws,sight bases. Most important thing is watch OUT for the rabbit trails that fallow. Its where I got started.
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having receiver wrenches made because I wasn't happy with Brownell's
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Old January 12th, 2017, 08:35 PM   #6
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Just be Neighborly....

Just go over to the neighbors garage, and pick out a few items to parkerize. It don't matter what they are, because they are not yours. I did his chain saw blade once. His plastic handles on his screwdrivers will melt at high temperatures, just a note, not a warning. He will just think that his garage gets too hot when he attempts to use them at some point in the future. When you are done, don't forget to use the neighbors drain to get rid of the excess parkerizing chemicals.

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Old January 12th, 2017, 09:02 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by HDSledge View Post
Bought a quart of Lauer's park solution and want to learn about parkerizing on something dispensable first. I have read that different steels give different colors of park and I don't want any surprises when I put the valuable parts in the soup.

What grade of bolts/washers etc. can I pick up at lowes or wallyworld that will give me similar results as the wd-8620 steel used in WWII?

Thanks
HD--I'm no expert on parkerizing, but I've done a few projects and a lot of reading. I suspect there is no way for you to really get your answer. Just look at a bunch of Garands, or 03's or 1917s and you wil find every shade in the rainbow. Event the heat treat process within the same receiver will change the park color. Early Garands had the heels dipped in lead to anneal the metal. The parkerizing color change is as plain as day to see compared to the front half of the receiver.

To your question....I don't think there are a lot of handy or cheap parts you can pick up that are made of 8620 today.

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Old January 12th, 2017, 09:05 PM   #8
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HD

On disposing of the park solution. I take my rinse tank and add it to my remaining park solution,because the park solution is evaporating as it is heated. I have Never thrown out my solution,because the guy who talked me into said it only gets better with usage. There are few guys I have park for on the Forum that seemed pleased.
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Old January 12th, 2017, 10:28 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mrmark99 View Post
Just go over to the neighbors garage, and pick out a few items to parkerize. It don't matter what they are, because they are not yours. I did his chain saw blade once. His plastic handles on his screwdrivers will melt at high temperatures, just a note, not a warning. He will just think that his garage gets too hot when he attempts to use them at some point in the future. When you are done, don't forget to use the neighbors drain to get rid of the excess parkerizing chemicals.
Now that's funny stuff.

Find a variety of metals of different alloy and hardness. That makes for a good experiment.

I am not familiar with Lauer's formula. I use the Allegheny Arsenal stuff, which has already been "seasoned" and doesn't require the steel wool step. But the key here is that different steels, different hardness levels, will both impact the color of the parkerizing. On the Browning 1919s, for example, all made from early '42 and forward had the rear inch of the side plates hardened, and it is always quite visible in the shade of the park. I've done parkerizing for 12 years and it is a fairly simple process. Most important thing I can suggest is that you make sure all parts are totally free of oil and grease. I keep everything bone dry during gun building. Saves a lot of trouble later. I sand blast all parts thoroughly, and as much as possible I want to be parkerizing the metal ASAP after the blast. I just use compressed air to blow off the dust and go straight into the hot water tank, then into the park. The hot water prep is not always necessary, but it helps pre heat the parts, especially on big heavy things like 1919 receivers. Those will drop the temp in your park tank if you put them in cold!

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Old January 13th, 2017, 07:34 AM   #10
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use something with little to no value

any AR-type

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Old January 13th, 2017, 07:59 AM   #11
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I use the Lauer Manganese park solution. I have had stuff that parked dark charcoal and other stuff medium grey. It can depend on the steel, the park temp, the surface prep from sandblasting, the mood of the wife, etc. As far as it matters, I have been pleased with all the results. Just follow directions, and prep carefully. In my experience the Lauer solution is not agressive in the sense of overly etching or eating parts. Dip till the fizzing diminishes-usually in a few minutes.

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Old January 13th, 2017, 08:04 AM   #12
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Barrel, reciever, base and rings Parked with Lauer using a medium, almost fine glass beadblast.

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Old January 13th, 2017, 08:07 AM   #13
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Springfield XD slide with Lauer solution on #120 sandblasted. Dark charcoal grey (almost black) finish.

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Old January 13th, 2017, 11:01 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by mrmark99 View Post
Just go over to the neighbors garage, and pick out a few items to parkerize. It don't matter what they are, because they are not yours. I did his chain saw blade once. His plastic handles on his screwdrivers will melt at high temperatures, just a note, not a warning. He will just think that his garage gets too hot when he attempts to use them at some point in the future. When you are done, don't forget to use the neighbors drain to get rid of the excess parkerizing chemicals.
You are seriously twisted...but I like it.

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Old January 13th, 2017, 11:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by smoothy8500 View Post


Barrel, reciever, base and rings Parked with Lauer using a medium, almost fine glass beadblast.
The color looks great on this work. I see a big difference from the slide above in post 13.

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