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Old January 31st, 2012, 03:36 PM   #1
Lifer
 
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alan wrench question

Ok so my flash hider is loosening up. I just purchased this rifle so i took it back to the gun store where i bought it. They stripped around 10-15 different tools trying to loosen the little hex set screw.

Any suggestions on a site on the net where i can buy an allen wrench made of hard steel that will turn this screw?

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Old January 31st, 2012, 03:42 PM   #2
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Probably one of the best for the job is Brownell's 1/16" Allen Head Fixed Blade Screwdriver, part # 080-453-062.
However, I wouldn't be suprized if the screw itself is stripped. You may need to drill it out and chase the 6x40 threads. I good deal of care is needed to prevent damage to the flash suppressor.

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Old January 31st, 2012, 04:15 PM   #3
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Also, check the castle nut to make sure it is not putting pressure on the set screw. You can feel a little bit of "wiggle" in the castle nut before it hits the screw. Center up this movement and then try to remove the screw. Hope this helps.

Dale

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Old January 31st, 2012, 04:54 PM   #4
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You need to go somewhere that knows what they are doing before it is too late. It may already be.

You got good advise from 2 very knowlegable people here, but my guess is if you didn't feel comfortable tightning this up yourself, you are not going to want to drill out a hard set screw and probably don't have a 6-40 tap laying around.
Find competant help. You did the right thing by asking for help. It was/is the people you trusted who are at fault for jacking you up. In my 20 plus years as a machinist it never fails that the guy who wouldn't quit is always the most difficult one to fix. We always get the things with eas-outs/ taps broken off in a broken screw that would have been a 20 min job, now has become a major ordeal.

Stop regroup.

Thanks from charlesPOSTLEwade
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Old January 31st, 2012, 06:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MemphisMachinists View Post
In my 20 plus years as a machinist it never fails that the guy who wouldn't quit is always the most difficult one to fix. We always get the things with eas-outs/ taps broken off in a broken screw that would have been a 20 min job, now has become a major ordeal.

Stop regroup.
Not only "Listen to your Armorer," but in this case "Listen to a Machinist." I agree it sounds he may have gone beyond the point he needs a professional.

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Old January 31st, 2012, 07:07 PM   #6
Lifer
 
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i got the screw out...

new problem:
Ive got the castle nut as tight as i can get it without totally mangling it but it lines up "on the tooth" should i order a castle wrench and torque it further as some have done ? (i used the search engine and thats the advice given before however you guys are giving much more conservative advice and i like that.

its about 3-5 mm from going into the slot. With the proper castle wrench, is it ok to torque it a bit further? I know for sure i can't back up or it won't be tight enough. (the shop where i bought this gun want much help thank you everyone for the advice)

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Old January 31st, 2012, 07:10 PM   #7
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I just ordered some castle nut pliers, that should let me turn it a bit more and get the screw back down in there. If thats too hard i will take it in..


thanks for the advice i am not a machinist and can only do basic gunsmithing tasks. I would never try to drip and tap a screw on a firearm, I'm just not good at it.

Hopefully it turns a bit more. if not what can a pro do? i have the vortex flash hider, (the one with the front sight on top of the caste nut).


Last edited by Dredsen; January 31st, 2012 at 07:34 PM.
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Old January 31st, 2012, 08:03 PM   #8
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Once you get the caste nut loose and the set screw out, tap the flash hider in with a mallet and see if you can get in on enough to go a few more notches on the castle nut. The screw is probably mangled, might be good to pick up some extras so you don't have to wait on that then.

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Old February 1st, 2012, 03:57 AM   #9
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Thats great news. When you said someone had stripped 10-15 tools in the screw I figured it was toast. I would definitly replace the screw. The screw has to be in a slot when tight even if you have to back the nut up a tad to make it line up. Another thing you can do is file or sand a little off the bottom of the nut so that it turns tight a little more or buy a half dozen nuts and keep trying one till it fits.

I the screw is not in the slot it will shoot loose rather quickly. At least it did for me. See my signature.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredsen View Post
i got the screw out...

new problem:
Ive got the castle nut as tight as i can get it without totally mangling it but it lines up "on the tooth" should i order a castle wrench and torque it further as some have done ? (i used the search engine and thats the advice given before however you guys are giving much more conservative advice and i like that.

its about 3-5 mm from going into the slot. With the proper castle wrench, is it ok to torque it a bit further? I know for sure i can't back up or it won't be tight enough. (the shop where i bought this gun want much help thank you everyone for the advice)

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