M14 Forum

cottondoctor

My M1A trigger seems to have a little hitch in it (you can hear a little click when you take up the first stage) - and the second stage is too light. It will almost pick up 3.5 pounds. Suggestions??? I already changed the spring a couple times. ???? Thanks in advance any any ideas or where to send it to get it tuned to NM specs.
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OK - thanks for all the good advice here - I found an old shooting buddy who knows a lot about these triggers and we did a little "heavy up" on it.
The trigger will now pick up the 4.5 pound weight but will beak if you try to pick up the 4.5 pound weight with a 9/16 socket sat on the weight.

RET DEP 04

I have had great luck with Bill Springfield in Colorado as have many other members on the forum. His turnaround time is great and his work has been faultless. Here is a link:

http://www.triggerwork.net/m1m1a.html

Rojkoh

Strongly suggest two things:

1) Get a second trigger group, it's one of the three spares you want to have: Trigger group (with no lighter then a 4lb trigger), complete bolt and gas assembly.

2) Take the first trigger group to a GOOD smith. let them sort through it. Trigger on the M14,M1A and Garand should never be lighter then 4 lbs.

Gus Fisher

I have found on this and some other forums in recent years that the minimum trigger pull weights are sometimes described differently than how it was common during the use of the M14 service rifle and the NM M14.

There is a more "modern" terminology that seems to have sprung up outside NM, NRA or Military circles in use by some that describes the trigger pull weight as the ADDITIONAL weight of the second stage over and beyond the pull resistance of the first stage. I don't subscribe to that terminology. I am really uneasy about describing trigger pull weights that way as it is far too easy for people to get confused or not have a safe minimum trigger pull weight.

Trigger pulls are measured with trigger pull weights in the military and for NRA competition. The solid weights are used because there can never be a worn spring that gives the wrong reading. IOW, "the weights don't lie." Grin. Here is a set of the type of trigger pull weights in use at the National Matches and all certified NRA matches:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9...-WEIGHT-SYSTEM

The MINIMUM trigger pull weight is 4 1/2 lbs. for the Garand and M14 and for VERY GOOD reasons. Trigger pull weights lighter than that will cause triggers to NOT reset in semi auto and cause doubles or triples. This in the standard trigger groups.

I know there are trigger groups with different internal parts for the M14 that can be safely adjusted below 4 1/2 lbs., but those are NOT the standard trigger mechanisms and really uncommon overall.

So if anyone suggests the trigger pull weight of the M1 Garand or M14 is LESS than 4 1/2 lbs., I would ask they explain they are not using the standard trigger mechanism or a different terminology than standard.

Metonymy

I sent my trigger group to Ted Brown. Absolutely happy with the results of his handiwork.

cottondoctor

OK - thanks for all the good advice here - I found an old shooting buddy who knows a lot about these triggers and we did a little "heavy up" on it.
The trigger will now pick up the 4.5 pound weight but will beak if you try to pick up the 4.5 pound weight with a 9/16 socket sat on the weight.

art7

My initial guess based on what you describe is that there is insufficient second stage sear engagement, so one of the sear tips is starting to slip around the corner, causing the slight click you are feeling, and bringing your weight down too far. You might also feel some hesitation in the trigger returning forward if you pull up to the second stage, but then release without taking the shot.

If this is the case, you normally put a piece of sandpaper between the trigger and the disconnector, with the rough side facing the trigger, and pull it through several times. This takes just a little material off the back of the trigger, allowing the discon to rock slightly further forward. This should both eliminate the click, and increase the pull weight.

That said, before you actually do anything, let's see what Gus has to say about this idea.

Gus Fisher

I don't want to sound like I'm nitpicking, but you use Garnet Paper (which is cloth/drill backed abrasive paper for metal) and not sandpaper to add a little trigger pull weight. Sandpaper for wood will normally just tear and do no good. Normally one should use 320 gr. Garnet Paper for this job and at the VERY coarsest when a lot of weight has to be added, then one uses 220 Gr. Actually and for most people, it is better to use 320 grit and just have to run it through more times so you don't get too much trigger pull weight added on too quickly.

jim-analog

Greetings,

In a properly functioning M14 FCG, how is that total pull weight typically divided up between the two stages? Thanks!

Regards, Jim

Gus Fisher

That mostly depends on how long the hammer spring is. I always want a full length hammer spring around 2 1/8" or slightly more so there is more pull weight on the first stage and the second stage "feels" lighter because of it.

I'm afraid I can't tell you the pound weight range of the first stage because that was never a concern to Armorers.

art7

Stock triggers are about 3-1/2lb in the first stage, and just under 6lb total. I have a plot of a stock trigger vs my adjustable trigger on my web site here:

http://neergaard.org/shootingsight/i...ll%20plots.pdf

Art