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Rusty Ka-Bar type knife... what to do

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Old June 6th, 2013, 12:00 PM   #16
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Old June 6th, 2013, 12:28 PM   #17
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Cheaper than Dirt had these on sale about 10 years ago for $25.00. Condition was new and unissued. I bought four of them at the time and gave three away to my hunting buddies. This handle on the particular knife is stamped "Camillus, N.Y., 2-1984." The back side of the sheath is marked: Knife, Hunting, Sheathed, Survival, Pilot's, Mil-K-8662E, Camillus Cutlery Co., GS09S42296, April 1984.

I recall the same knife being issued to naval aviators back in the late 60's when I was in an A-4 squadron.
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Old June 6th, 2013, 12:43 PM   #18
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If it were mine , I would get it wet with some Mobil 1 and clean off all the rust
with a soft wire brush, or soft wire wheel. Then do like CAVman said and follow up
with some fine steel wool. Then keep it oiled.its got lots of use left in it.

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Old June 6th, 2013, 01:59 PM   #19
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Start with an hour of grass drills while someone holds a hose on you.

Then evaporust. That's good stuff.

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Old June 6th, 2013, 02:38 PM   #20
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I would take it apart myself, there's no telling what under the leather washer rust wise. it should not be too hard to get it apart, there should be a Pin or weld on the but cap some where knock out or grind off. after I had it apart i would bead blast it, oil the leather washers and put it back together and cold blue it with the blasted finish. If you don't want to take it apart then I would wrap the leather handle with low tack painters tape and then duct tape and bead blast it and cold blue it. Either that or I would just throw it in the trunk of my car and buy one of these...
http://www.ontario-knife-store.com/s...=499&x=16&y=16

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Old June 6th, 2013, 02:58 PM   #21
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SAC TROOP ...This is off topic but...the orange handle switchblade in your avatar...what is it and how old is it. I had a black one just like it and I traded it to a ranger at Fort Campell for his orange one.
I don't have a clue what either one is.


Last edited by BUDS13; June 6th, 2013 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Old and forgetfull
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Old June 6th, 2013, 03:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUDS13 View Post
SAC TROOP ...This is off topic but...the orange handle switchblade in your avatar...what is it and how old is it. I had a black one just like it and I traded it to a ranger at Fort Campell for his orange one.
I don't have a clue what either one is.
That's a paratrooper knive; used to cut the lines if you get hung up in a tree...


THis is a closer look at it...


Is this the one you had?

A modern version of the WW2 era M2 paratrooper knife.



OK< back to your regularly scheduled thread.

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Old June 6th, 2013, 03:55 PM   #23
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+1 on the aircrew survival knife!! Thed K-Bar military or Civvie configurating has much bigger blade and round disk shaped tang cap.

Steel wool and penetrating oil or naval jelly would be my suggestion.

Maybe somebody could even reparkerize it without affecting the handle somehow too.

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Old June 6th, 2013, 04:02 PM   #24
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I have always had good luck removing surface rust with Kroil lube/protectant

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Old June 6th, 2013, 04:21 PM   #25
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naval jelly and bronze wool

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Old June 6th, 2013, 04:33 PM   #26
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The knife in the avatar is an MC-1. U.S.A.F. contract knife from 1957-1993. After that they could still be purchased from the manufacturers that were still around. Camillus stopped making them in 2006 when they closed their doors.
To be knit-picky here. It truly isn’t a “paratrooper knife”, but the facts are that a lot of paratroopers got their hands on them either individually or even on the unit level. Honestly the MC-1 is not a very robust knife and I wouldn’t want it as my primary go too knife.
The first black scale knife that sablelieger pictures in the above post. Is a recent offering from the Colonial knife company. It’s really a product improvement of the MC-1. Much different on the inside and all in good ways. The knife is an M724, they come in different colors. This is Colonials designation and not a military one. Honestly this stands for (Mathews 7; 24;), I wouldn’t make this up.

If the knife you traded for the MC-1 was in fact a WW2 M2 paratroopers knife, I’m sorry to say he got the better half of that deal. The M2’s were also made post WW2.

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Old June 6th, 2013, 04:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sablelieger View Post
That's a paratrooper knive; used to cut the lines if you get hung up in a tree...


THis is a closer look at it...


Is this the one you had?

A modern version of the WW2 era M2 paratrooper knife.



OK< back to your regularly scheduled thread.
.................................................. ...........................................It'was the one on the bottom that I traded for the Orange one.
That's OK though, the guy was a retired Ranger working for me at Fort Campbell and a really nice guy, originally from Utah, he was going to give it to his son and I only have a daughter who could care less about my guns and knives. I'm happy.

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Old March 2nd, 2016, 06:16 PM   #28
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Air Force Survival Knife

To reply to this post topic by sixplus1 I need to critique the other members responses in order : • jbkf1003 ~ The intention is not important if you always want a good restoration. Consistent quality work keeping true enough to history. There are custom enhanced modifications to the Air Force Survival Knife which I have also done. Custom project usually for a badly damaged example where general restoration is no option. • M25DeathTrain ~ The bead blasting is messy and expensive. Takes a professional to use this properly. Glass Bead Blasting can roughen or even reshape the surface of hardened steel. The tape you put on the grip would be blasted off fast and then the knife ruined. Soda Blasting or Dry Ice Blasting would be more mild but still not for those on a budget with no experience.

done grey on the pommel for Navy issued to reduce glare. • CAVman ~ The steel wool gets very messy and you will surely cut your finger bad this way and get an awful infection. The steel wool splinters and slivers get into the pores of the blade causing rust on the surface long after you scrubbed it. • Ro3gear ~ The CLR is organic compound not chemical but has lactic acid that causes decay, and salt (gluconic acid) which is alkaline. Both will be damaging to this type of blade steel.

stainless steel or chrome.

of the tape you put on the handle would dissolve and the tape would fall off and the leather grip would be ruined. The long term rust inhibitor spray stays sticky and usually only for automotive under bodies. • Jay R ~ The leather handle would turn to mush and get ruined if you soaked it in the water of the electrolytic bath. • Wildcat78 ~ This knife originally issued with moisture displacing alloy steel to meet ODD military requirements. In addition to the brite blade models many had a Parkerizing, bluing, or powder coated phosphate coating as a barrier against corrosion. Any debris seen on the blade is above the surface so you want only to remove it not leave lumpy sprayed rust crud on it. Automobiles are not knives and the metals are much different. • danthman114 ~ Acid cleaning has limitations in that it is difficult to handle because it is corrosive, and it is not applicable to all steels. Hydrogen embrittlement becomes a problem for some alloys and high-carbon steels. Vinegar has 3-20% acetic acid as a main component and is similar to other descaling agents like hydrochloric acid. Pickling is a hot metal treating process done only by trained factory workers. The hydrogen from the acid reacts with the surface and makes it brittle and causes cracks. • TravelingMan0491 ~ Evapo-Rust is used for automobiles and for that only. It works well on automobiles because they are greased, oiled, lubed, after the EDTA solution removes the rust. This is a knife and the Evapo-Rust product will "flash rust" if not kept coated with oil continually. The rust will still come back in two weeks and the process needs to be done over and over. • Richard_Head ~ Motor oil will give the leather handle a stink as bad as vinegar would. This is a military knife so try not to give off a odor that reveals your position to the enemy! lol. • Earthquake ~ Only the Air Force Survival knives made in Japan have a pommel that can be unscrewed. The knife featured here (1960 era) are peened at the tang allowing the butt to be hammered during field use. Try to take this knife apart and never get it back together again. • billythegoat ~ Disimilar metals touching together (the copper content in bronze wool with steel) causes galvanic corrosion which will contribute to accelerated corrosion. Especially when wet creates electrical current like a primary battery does eventually eating away the blade over time. The way I restore a knife like this is to use a bench grinder with a coarse wire wheel on it and WD40. Try not to completely take off bluing if possible. Some deep scratches may be there from the combat use it went through. To increase the effectiveness of the wire wheel I make a lapping compound by dipping a man made carborundum sharpening stone in water a few times then scraping it with the blade to get a slurry, then run it under the wire wheel while still wet. Then a buffing wheel on the bench grinder and polishing stick that will give best result, try a few different ones. A white polishing stick compound used to polish plastic works great on the hard leather handle.

Thanks from RDS
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Old March 2nd, 2016, 06:28 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colonel666 View Post
To reply to this post topic by sixplus1 I need to critique the other members responses in order : • jbkf1003 ~ The intention is not important if you always want a good restoration. Consistent quality work keeping true enough to history. There are custom enhanced modifications to the Air Force Survival Knife which I have also done. Custom project usually for a badly damaged example where general restoration is no option. • M25DeathTrain ~ The bead blasting is messy and expensive. Takes a professional to use this properly. Glass Bead Blasting can roughen or even reshape the surface of hardened steel. The tape you put on the grip would be blasted off fast and then the knife ruined. Soda Blasting or Dry Ice Blasting would be more mild but still not for those on a budget with no experience.

done grey on the pommel for Navy issued to reduce glare. • CAVman ~ The steel wool gets very messy and you will surely cut your finger bad this way and get an awful infection. The steel wool splinters and slivers get into the pores of the blade causing rust on the surface long after you scrubbed it. • Ro3gear ~ The CLR is organic compound not chemical but has lactic acid that causes decay, and salt (gluconic acid) which is alkaline. Both will be damaging to this type of blade steel.

stainless steel or chrome.

of the tape you put on the handle would dissolve and the tape would fall off and the leather grip would be ruined. The long term rust inhibitor spray stays sticky and usually only for automotive under bodies. • Jay R ~ The leather handle would turn to mush and get ruined if you soaked it in the water of the electrolytic bath. • Wildcat78 ~ This knife originally issued with moisture displacing alloy steel to meet ODD military requirements. In addition to the brite blade models many had a Parkerizing, bluing, or powder coated phosphate coating as a barrier against corrosion. Any debris seen on the blade is above the surface so you want only to remove it not leave lumpy sprayed rust crud on it. Automobiles are not knives and the metals are much different. • danthman114 ~ Acid cleaning has limitations in that it is difficult to handle because it is corrosive, and it is not applicable to all steels. Hydrogen embrittlement becomes a problem for some alloys and high-carbon steels. Vinegar has 3-20% acetic acid as a main component and is similar to other descaling agents like hydrochloric acid. Pickling is a hot metal treating process done only by trained factory workers. The hydrogen from the acid reacts with the surface and makes it brittle and causes cracks. • TravelingMan0491 ~ Evapo-Rust is used for automobiles and for that only. It works well on automobiles because they are greased, oiled, lubed, after the EDTA solution removes the rust. This is a knife and the Evapo-Rust product will "flash rust" if not kept coated with oil continually. The rust will still come back in two weeks and the process needs to be done over and over. • Richard_Head ~ Motor oil will give the leather handle a stink as bad as vinegar would. This is a military knife so try not to give off a odor that reveals your position to the enemy! lol. • Earthquake ~ Only the Air Force Survival knives made in Japan have a pommel that can be unscrewed. The knife featured here (1960 era) are peened at the tang allowing the butt to be hammered during field use. Try to take this knife apart and never get it back together again. • billythegoat ~ Disimilar metals touching together (the copper content in bronze wool with steel) causes galvanic corrosion which will contribute to accelerated corrosion. Especially when wet creates electrical current like a primary battery does eventually eating away the blade over time. The way I restore a knife like this is to use a bench grinder with a coarse wire wheel on it and WD40. Try not to completely take off bluing if possible. Some deep scratches may be there from the combat use it went through. To increase the effectiveness of the wire wheel I make a lapping compound by dipping a man made carborundum sharpening stone in water a few times then scraping it with the blade to get a slurry, then run it under the wire wheel while still wet. Then a buffing wheel on the bench grinder and polishing stick that will give best result, try a few different ones. A white polishing stick compound used to polish plastic works great on the hard leather handle.
Very Interesting FIRST POST !

(To a 3-year old dormant thread!)



Why don't you introduce yourself to all of us so we can properly welcome you aboard here ??



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Old March 2nd, 2016, 06:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danthman114 View Post
vinegar will remove rust pretty well. wrap the handle with electrical tape to seal in the leather and soak it for a few days or as needed. it removes all rust...
Molasses and water will also work but its slow, however I like plain old oil or CLP rubbed down with a real copper penny and elbow grease.

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