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Hoppe's # 9 Worthless????

This is a discussion on Hoppe's # 9 Worthless???? within the Art Luppino forums, part of the Gun Professionals category; Everything I've read said that Hoppe's isn't effective for corrosive primers. The salts require a water based cleaner. Also Hoppes isn't supposed to be effective ...


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Old September 1st, 2016, 08:16 PM   #31
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Everything I've read said that Hoppe's isn't effective for corrosive primers.

The salts require a water based cleaner.

Also Hoppes isn't supposed to be effective on lead fouling.

What gives?

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Old September 1st, 2016, 08:25 PM   #32
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# 9 is all I've known. I would pull a knotted bootstring soaked in used motor oil through my barrel if I had to, but I can just go buy some #9, so....

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Old September 1st, 2016, 08:53 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Flyboy56 View Post
That aggressive ammonia solvent is a two edged sword. While Sweets works as advertised it attacks barrel steel - especially stainless. I recall an article by Mic McPhearson (I believe) in Precision Shooting where he investigated this on a sectioned barrel. After prolonged exposure the steel was badly attacked. Don't leave aggressive ammonia based solvents on the steel for more than a few minutes..
Any solvent with a high content percentage of ammonia will etch the bore... Currently Sweet 7.62 is the highest plus it uses a liquid soap so it clings too the bore. Back in the old 03 Springfield days, barrels were fried using ammonia with a high mole content for curpo-nickel removal. If there wasn't a bio-hazard and environmental issue and you wanted your barrel as clean as the day it was machined we would all use Mercury.


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Originally Posted by Puccini View Post
Everything I've read said that Hoppe's isn't effective for corrosive primers.

The salts require a water based cleaner.

Also Hoppes isn't supposed to be effective on lead fouling.

What gives?

No solvent removes primer salts, if that's there claim that's BS. Only water will dissolve a salt and if your worried about corrosive ammo don't shoot it or before you punch the bore you batter have run a pot or two of boiling water down the bore first, then you use a solvent.

Well no, Hoppe's is for carbon removal, powder fouling and a little if any copper removal if you want too remove lead you need too use some type of lead remover, chemical or the mechanical type. But few people shoot cast loads in the gas guns for fear of clogging up the gas system.

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Old September 1st, 2016, 09:13 PM   #34
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Some WW II/Korea - era bore cleaner is still available at gun shows occasionally, that was designed to remove corrosive primer salts. Still needed to clean for 3 consecutive days, however. It's just easier not to shoot the corrosive stuff, however.

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Old September 1st, 2016, 09:57 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by ripcord View Post
Some WW II/Korea - era bore cleaner is still available at gun shows occasionally, that was designed to remove corrosive primer salts. Still needed to clean for 3 consecutive days, however. It's just easier not to shoot the corrosive stuff, however.
I think it was made with water, and it really wasn't very effective because you couldn't use enough of it too wash the salts away.

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Last edited by Phil McGrath; September 1st, 2016 at 11:16 PM.
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Old September 1st, 2016, 11:04 PM   #36
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Art,...sorry about chuckling at your expense.
That was me who posted that cleaning article. You are hilarious. I too thought the author of the article was full of it. I use LPS1 and my bore comes out very clean without the many, many strokes from the bore brush.
Sorry about you being curious enough to drive 60 miles.

Dutch
Lps1? I love the stuff but never used it for guns. Smells good, prevents rust, slicks stuff up too. Guess it's on my list.

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 05:02 AM   #37
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I made my own version of good ol' Hoppe's No. 9 based on the formula in Hatcher's Notebook; I happened to snag some nitrobenzene and amyl acetate a couple of years ago. It seems to work OK on copper fouling but I use it only occasionally as the nitrobenzene is profoundly toxic.

However, it IS the nitrobenzene and amyl acetate that made the original No. 9 smell so good!

For routine cleaning I use a modified version of Ed's Red which does work very well except not so much on the copper fouling. For light-duty stuff it's either CLP or Ballistol here.


Last edited by Crashbox; September 2nd, 2016 at 05:14 AM.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 05:55 AM   #38
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I use Hoppes Copper solevent in everything but my Rem LTR. In that gun I use #9. The LTR is getting a bit old and keeping a little copper in the barrel helps keep the fps up a bit. That rifle still shoot 1/2 MOA after about 9k rounds through her. I like Hoppes bore solevent works as it should and the aroma brings back memories. They should make it in an after shave.

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 06:42 AM   #39
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Basically there are two methods of cleaning a bore, one is chemical and other is mechanical, solvent or brush if you will. With chemical it is important that it be left in the bore long enough for it to do it's "magic." Obviously with Sweets 7.62 that should not be left in the bore for extended time and says so on the bottle but reading instructions is boring. Personally I think more barrels are damaged by over cleaning than shooting does. Some residue in the bore is not a bad thing and a fouled bore to light degree is important if you are seeking best performance from the rifle. Few experienced long range match shooters will show up at the match with a pristine, super clean bore and if they do, will take some fouling shots prior to the match if possible and if sight in shots are available, that serves as the fouling shots. For High Power shooters experiencing rapid fire stages, barrel gets very hot, even the best of barrels regardless of cleaning techniques will be shocked if they view the bore through a quality bore scope, crazing, cracking of surface, etc. will be quite visible. To help smooth that situation somewhat JB compound will help, but working the barrel hard will eventually destroy it's accuracy, but not as quickly as harsh brushing and not following instructions of the bore solvents.

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 12:36 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mb3 View Post
I use Hoppes Copper solevent in everything but my Rem LTR. In that gun I use #9. The LTR is getting a bit old and keeping a little copper in the barrel helps keep the fps up a bit. That rifle still shoot 1/2 MOA after about 9k rounds through her. I like Hoppes bore solevent works as it should and the aroma brings back memories. They should make it in an after shave.
It should be made into a perfume for the ladies...well, okay, for us!

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 12:42 PM   #41
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I think it was made with water, and it really wasn't very effective because you couldn't use enough of it too wash the salts away.
Yes, hence my caveat of cleaning three consecutive days. Wet the bore, scrub 10 strokes with the bore brush, finish with patches until clean - then oil. (And we wonder why GI barrels are worn out?)

My can of GI cleaner is dated 1943 and I use it on the rare occasion I shoot corrosive ammo. Using the above procedure I have never had a rusty/pitted bore.

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 12:46 PM   #42
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Hoppes #9 user here. 2-3 days to get the cleaning cycle done but I'm in the camp that quicker with harsher chemicals isn't better for the barrel. I'll use hoppes 9 benchrest when I want to take the copper out.
SA manual recommends using #9 benchrest after every range shoot.

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 01:09 PM   #43
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Art L. "...Before leaving the Range I fired 5 parting rounds using a known dirty burning ball powder. labored at the bench following the instructions from the Article, except I used Hoppe's # 9...
Than I followed up with wet patches using Butches's, something must have gone wrong, I was unable to get any additional fouling on the patches..."


Art, Could you run the reverse next range trip as a proofing and post results? Same 5 dirty rounds, start with Butches and then follow with the Hoppes #9 and see if the Hoppes draws out additional?



DudleyDR "...Run a few "wet" patches through the bore and leave the rifle alone for 3 days. Come back every 3 days until you get a clean wet patch. Then come back a week later with a clean wet patch. It will come out dirty. Repeat at one week intervals until clean. You will use fewer patches this way. If you scrub the bore until you think it is clean and leave it, you will be either pleased or disappointed at how dirty the next patch will be. Hoppe's is a slow-working solvent that leaches microscopic particles from the grain of the steel. Those particles were embedded into the steel under pressure - sometimes 50Kpsi. It takes more than a few swipes to really clean a bore. I have put a "clean" barrel away for a month and came back with a wet patch of Hoppe's and retrieved green, blue, and black residue from the bore. Once I think it is clean, I may use some Butches Bore Shine."

DudleyDR, What do we do if we want to shoot the same gun every two weeks or less?




Personally I like:
1 oz Hoppes #9
1.5 oz Absolute
3 large olives
in a rocks glass over ice.

(kidding of course, don't try this at home and then sue me)

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 01:26 PM   #44
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Good idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougboffl View Post
Art L. "...Before leaving the Range I fired 5 parting rounds using a known dirty burning ball powder. labored at the bench following the instructions from the Article, except I used Hoppe's # 9...
Than I followed up with wet patches using Butches's, something must have gone wrong, I was unable to get any additional fouling on the patches..."


Art, Could you run the reverse next range trip as a proofing and post results? Same 5 dirty rounds, start with Butches and then follow with the Hoppes #9 and see if the Hoppes draws out additional?



DudleyDR "...Run a few "wet" patches through the bore and leave the rifle alone for 3 days. Come back every 3 days until you get a clean wet patch. Then come back a week later with a clean wet patch. It will come out dirty. Repeat at one week intervals until clean. You will use fewer patches this way. If you scrub the bore until you think it is clean and leave it, you will be either pleased or disappointed at how dirty the next patch will be. Hoppe's is a slow-working solvent that leaches microscopic particles from the grain of the steel. Those particles were embedded into the steel under pressure - sometimes 50Kpsi. It takes more than a few swipes to really clean a bore. I have put a "clean" barrel away for a month and came back with a wet patch of Hoppe's and retrieved green, blue, and black residue from the bore. Once I think it is clean, I may use some Butches Bore Shine."

DudleyDR, What do we do if we want to shoot the same gun every two weeks or less?





Personally I like:
1 oz Hoppes #9
1.5 oz Absolute
3 large olives
in a rocks glass over ice.

(kidding of course, don't try this at home and then sue me)


I'll do that and Post.. Art

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Old September 2nd, 2016, 01:36 PM   #45
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I started using Ballistol, brass brush. Then wrap the brush with a soaked patch and run thru until clean. Then I run a patch soaked in CLP for storage. Do the same for the chamber using chamber brushes.

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