M14 Forum

bluebeast1562

Greetings once again,
Quick question with regard to russian .308 ammo. About 4 months ago, I bought a butt load of Wolf ammo from CTD. Took it to the range, was having no problems with the loads. One of the range people was walking up and down the line, commented on my M14 then on the wolf ammo. Was talking about the fact that the ammo was steel case and would jack up my weapon, not sure what he was referring to. Was like the barrel, not being chromed? or chromed lined? would get messed up.
Needless to say, I was able to unload the ammo at a decent price and have been firing, the majority of the time, brass case ammo such as federal or winchester. I have picked up a couple of boxes of Tula ammo.
What is the deal with steel vs. brass cases?
Thanks,
Birk

Styles69

I've heard that the steel cases are hard on the extractors plus according to SA, steel is not recommended because the shavings could cause a jam/malfunction. I hope this helps.

GCBurner

There's nothing at all wrong with the Wolf 7.62mm ammo, whether it's the brass-plated "Wolf Gold", or the polymer coated steel case. I've fired off about half of a 1000-round case now with no problems.
It does seem to leave a dirtier chamber, but as long as you use the chamber brush when you clean it, there won't be any problems with sticking cases. I learned that shooting steel cased 7.62x39 ammo in my AR-15.
The Wolf and the Tula ammo both give acceptable accuracy for practice, but don't group as tightly in my rifles as the German NATO surplus DAG or MEN.

pepsi71ocean

the only steel cased ammo i have ever used is out of my Mausers.

I grew up on the notion that the way the bolt is on the Garand and the M-14 platform that it can rip the head off, if it doesn't give enough time to cool down, and other things.

now frankly i can't tell about its overall issues but i know there were many treads about this at one point.

I shoot either surplus DAG(41c shipped), or new Prvi(47c shipped) stuff which right now is cheap as hell compared to what i was paying for it a while ago.

GCBurner

The Tula .308 is $.324 per round at CTD.

pepsi71ocean

there was a time i was paying 65-75cents shipped per round, glad those days are over for now, If you can not get ra ped on shipping then your fine, for me its always 10-20 bucks depending on how much and where it is.

Pbmaster2k89

I'm sorry, what is DAG?

mtime7

german surplus mil ammo, some of the best surplus as far as I am concerned
If you look at pepsi71s post above you it looks like he has some dag in his fingers

Whatsinaname181

I wouldnt personally put steel case ammunition through my M1A on a regular basis.

The main differences between brass and steel cases is maliability. Brass is much softer. This means its going to wear a lot less on your rifle. it also seals the chamber during firing a lot better.

Steel cases, ive heard, tend to be a bit rougher on your chamber and extractor. Having a non-chrome lined barrel/chamber id forgo the steel case ammo, chrome being harder than steel I believe it to be no biggie.

Now, I own a bushmaster AR that ive had now since 2003. Since that time ive probably put well over 10,000 rounds through this rifle of all kinds. From M855 to the crappiest tula/laqeure coated 5.56 rounds one can buy. Thousands of rounds of russian steel case 5.56 and she still runs like a top, and Ive really just run the living crap out of that rifle. Now, you will start to get stuck cases sometimes. Easy fix- clean your chamber. Wanna know how to clean your chamber on an AR15 in about 2 minutes?

2 sections of cleaning rod
1 9mm brush
1 12ga brush
1 Drill
Cleaning solvent of your choice.

attach the 9mm to the cleaning rod sections and chuck it in the the drill. get it dripping with solvent. hit your chamber for about 10 seconds or so. repeat this for your locking lugs/star chamber with a 12ga brush. promise you gremlins and nomes will be jumping out screaming for dear life. dry with patch/chamber mop.

This will aleviate most of your AR steel case stuck round problems (which is not the laqure make it stick, but the lack of expansion from the steel cases and the carbon gets between the case wall and the chamber making it stick)

Lastly, keep a sectional cleaning rod with you in case you get a stuck round. I also keep a spare parts kit in my range bag so when my extractor does bite it, i can just replace it.

All of that applies to M1As except the drill cleaning method. No way to do that to an M1A/M14.

Correct me if im wrong on any of this.

charlie98

When I first got my Socom, I bought a few boxes of Monarch ammo (Academy Sporting Goods house brand... steel-cased ammo from Russia that is rebranded.)

I found it to be pretty 'hot,' recoil-wise, not very accurate, and it blew an 8" flame up out of my muzzle brake. At first I thought it was coming out of the chamber/bolt (yes... a little unnerving!) until I had someone look at an angle when I was firing and saw it was from the brake.

The only FTF I've ever had in my Socom was 3 FTF's with the laquered Monarch ammo, the bolt failed to strip the next round off the magazine (bolt hung up.) I suspect the laquer melted from the heat and 'glued' the top 2 rounds together, but I don't know.

I do not shoot it or any steel-cased ammo anymore, thank you very much.

Pbmaster2k89

Any1 know some really good places to get this German ammo? I was also wonderin what the cheapest brass cased ammo was any1 has found and where

mtime7

Its all over the place, but let me get back with you, see if I can find the best price

look at the thread under ammunition, there is a sticky for best ammo prices, looks like wideners right now, but last I looked i thought they were out, check it out

as far as good prices go, I like the british radway at SOG, it comes in bandos on strippers, and I have been buying by the case for best price

Pbmaster2k89

sog?

mtime7

Southern Ohio Gun, SOG, google it

XXIV Corps

The Cheapest 7.62x51mm on the Internet